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Everything posted by Scale-Master
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Wow! Killer job!
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I'll be watching this. You have a good start on it, keep it up!
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What Type of Modeler are you??
Scale-Master replied to Romell R's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
I'm going too have to say all four listed plus machining and some other facets... -
The Pactra RC paint is formulated to be sprayed inside clear R/C car bodies and stays flexible so it won't chip off as easy during impacts. It does not lay down well (compared to traditional model paints) and does not polish very well either. It does work well for its intended R/C purpose. It can be clear coated, I used urethane to help hide the coarse nature of the paint's finish. It can also subdue details on 1/25 scale cars. (I used it on a 1/12 scale slab sided car, and it was still a bit of work to make look like "normal" paint.)
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INSPIRED THINKING- Cheap Tips for Frugal Modelers
Scale-Master replied to 62rebel's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
I think you are better off investing in a toothbrush instead of the spray bottle for mold release removal. You can even use an old one for free if you want super cheap... Might be an excuse to go to the dentist? Here's another tip, use the new one for oral hygiene. I just use the detergent from the dispenser it comes in... -
Aluminum Beehive Oil filter - no lathe
Scale-Master replied to Scott Colmer's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
Very cool Scott! -
Newbie Question on Painting
Scale-Master replied to leon_s's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Yes, it is better to address the orange peel before clear coating instead of hoping the clear smooths it out. All you need to do is sand out the orange peel before clearing. (You can polish the clear afterwards.) Without any photos I can only give some general direction/advice. I'd say sand it with 1200 wet paper, check your progress often. You just want to take off the peaks of the orange peel so it is a uniform sheen with no spots (low points). That grit will also leave enough "tooth" for the clear to adhere to. The biggest concern is to not sand through the color. Be especially careful around the edges and high points of the parts. If you do sand through, touch it up. Once you have a uniform color base, apply the clear. The next step is to learn how to apply paint with less orange peel... -
Jim Keeler asked me to post this picture taken after part of his 70th Birthday celebration... The note said he jumped out of the plane and had a nice parachute experience. Looks like the pilot was his jump buddy... Happy Birthday JimDaddy!
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Very well done Brian, ya just gotta know I'd like it!
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What is the best putty
Scale-Master replied to car lover 1996's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
I am curious about your comment of sanding too much. Sanding should stop once the desired shape and finish are achieved. Could you explain what you mean by sanding too much? Thanks. -
BMF-Such a great thing!
Scale-Master replied to Mr. Moparman's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Do you think this will affect your budding resin business? And wise advice there, do not over stock up on BMF, humidity changes (shrinking and expansion of the carrier sheet) can cause wrinkles in the foil on the sheet and those wrinkles are as good as cracks. -
Lot's of really cool stuff in this thread! From my collection, I still like this one... '69 Magnum Hemi But as for real one's, (I guess from my collection too...), I am partial to this one... '68 Vista Cruiser
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That is basically a re-issue of the Revell BRE 240Z. The Walt Maas "Giant Killer". I believe it was just a decal change from the BRE kit, and new box art... Nicely built example there...
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'71 Charger Base Hardtop from: '77 movie Speedtrap
Scale-Master replied to Nick Winter's topic in WIP: Model Cars
Anybody else notice the striking resemblance of the paint scheme to Starsky's Torino...? -
As far as this model, Ditto! And I hope the real 1:1 one does as well!
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I machined an oil filter and remote mount from 7075 aluminum, (in one piece). I also machined the fittings and made a decal for the Fram graphics. Hopefully the engine is in for the final time… The chrome stone guards for the rear fenders have been made and applied…
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anyone seen this ? WOW !!!!!!!!!!!
Scale-Master replied to ANDY'S's topic in WIP: Drag Racing Models
More like SHAM-Wow... -
That is a gem of a kit. I too enjoyed building mine a few years ago...
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Are you going for a specialized (maybe stone-like?) look? Just curious... I'm not sure if the splatter look is what you were trying to acheive. I have found the Tamiya acrylics do need to be thinned for airbrushing. I prefer lacquer thinner for that, but Do Not put lacquer-thinned paint back into your bottle, unless you want glop in a couple days...
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those loving wives.
Scale-Master replied to DRG's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
My wife is incredibly supportive of my interest in this hobby. She knew nothing of it when we met. Yet about ten years ago decided I needed a display room, so she bought me a beautiful custom made set of display cabinets (to my specifications). Two walls worth. And encouraged me to turn one of our living rooms into a showroom for my models. I of course had to remove most of the models from all the other "public/shared" areas of the house. She even has built a few models and does a good job. She doesn't care for the building too much, but she does paint well, especially with an airbrush. -
Happy birhtday Mark Taylor!
Scale-Master replied to a topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Happy Birthday Mark... You may come off as wise beyond your years and that is why some here may think you are in a completely different decade... As long as I'm alive you'll never be as old as me... -
LeMans Winner 1983. Starter resin kit, 1/43 scale… Funny, I really like the Lowenbrau version, this one doesn’t really do it for me though, but it is a winner…
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It'll be Friday soon enough... Just finished this little bruiser: I started with Treasure Hunt Hot Wheels, standard approximate 1/64th scale. I shaved the chassis, made a wire front drop axle and changed the wheels/tires. Tires are from my 1/43 scale parts box. Wheels are discs I cut from sheet Mylar. Paint is Tamiya Maroon over black. Decals are from the Warbirds/Scale-Master sheet 64011. Except the tire decals, those I custom made…
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Brake lines from the brakes are plumbed, next I'll plumb them from the master out. Kit battery has been modified into a dual terminal model, I'm using the side terminals.