Scale-Master

Often masking tape works just fine. Scotch Magic tape pressed on firmly and yanked off at a perpendicular angle works quite well. But the stronger the decal bond the higher the chances of some paint coming along. If that does not work, you can try using decal solvent like paint stripper for the decals. But it may (small chance) affect the paint too. And it might take some time...

Could you be a little more specific about the decals...? Complete sheets or just certain sponsors for example.

Nothing like starting a new project to get fired up again. Must be why we have so many going at any given time...

If someone wants to build one, (or better, a pair), wouldn't be easier and cheaper just to get the more recent two car Snake & Mongoose set? Speaking as more of a builder than collector, what am I missing?

Nice and clean work on that one!

I have this one done up a little different than the norm... And I have this old JoHan from back in my teens...

The body paint is dry and waxed and the interior/chassis basic black painting is done… Most of the front suspension has been installed. The taillights have been installed. The engine has just been temporarily set into the car for the fitting of some other parts, but it does have the valve covers installed...

Why not built it the way it shows on the box? Like the show truck?

I only have a pre-production Peugeot in my possession right now, (someone had mentioned how it and the Audi should be seen in an earlier thread), and it would not be fair to show it since the full production items are even better... But I do have this pair of CART cars that I have run for a full H.O. season of fun to show... Check out the side wall lettering on the tires! And these photos were taken after dozens of hours of use. I am really impressed with the production quality of graphics on these cars. It's one thing to make a couple prototype mock-ups look sharp by hand, but cranking these out en-mass is something else. And they drive even better than the G-Plus cars...

Actually, by nature, decal solvents do not increase the strength of the adhesive of the decals, they soften the inks to make them more pliable so they can conform better. Now, if you had applied those decals to uncured paint, some decal solvents can react with both the decal and the paint. So removing those decals by tape will most likely leave some evidence that the decals were there...

Start with tape.

How about an inline electric water pump using the same lines as from the tank, and replace the tank with a radiator? Just a thought...

Thanks, I am pleased with them too...

Ejector pins have to be placed to "eject" the parts. While it seems better placement could be done in some cases, there is a logical reason they are in the inside of interior buckets...

It came in the first issue (1998? maybe). Not sure how many subsequent issues contained them.

Got the pulleys I made on along with the starter, alternator, distributor and manifold…

The Revell-Monogram '60 Impala came with that interior on the decal sheet...

Scale should not be a factor in what you post. If you hadn't stated a scale I think most of us would have assumed it was 1/24 or 1/25. I have some 1/32 scale models in my collection as well as other scales both larger and smaller than 1/24 & 1/25. As far as popularity in the automotive realm, it is not as popular as it once was, but then 1/43 has even more subjects than 1/24 scale, but not everyone builds in that size either...

That is one scary ride!

A lot of good ideas... I like the really thin plywood from the R/C plane section of the hobby shop, (1/64 of an inch I think), coupled with CA. It cuts easily with scissors. Scuff the plastic with very coarse sand paper (100 grit or rougher) and allow the plywood to be saturated with the CA. I have found it works better than metal as far as adhesion, and stays bonded if any flexing is involved better than plastic.

Is it just me, or does anyone else hear banjos playing? Looks like something I saw at the Henry Ford Museum a while ago...

I still use and like the Testors bottled enamels, but have had many issues with the spray cans over the years. If I decant the spray paint and airbrush it, I get significantly better results. As mentioned, it comes out of the can too heavy and not very well atomized.

Since there is less surface area on the model, even when you paint the model with the exact same paint as the 1:1 subject, the model will always look darker, no matter what color you are dealing with. It is a light issue. I'd suggest using Testors Classic White. It is not pure white like the Testors High Gloss White, (or tamiya Pure White), but is not as yellow as Wimbledon White (or Tamiya Racing White). It should be a good visual match.

I'm starting to understand where you are going with this. It looks brutal.

I have those wheels on my car, and I just went through the kit I have set aside to make a replica of it and you are correct, the kit parts don't provide a front and rear as they should. I could have sworn they did it right. What a bummer, now I will have to machine more parts... In 1:1 it is enough to see, and being "backward" to me it kind of jumps out. I'll say it again, you did a super clean job on that one, like usual...