futurattraction

Thanks for all the additional feedback, guys. John - I've tried Sharpie and, though I like the idea of it, it seemed to rub off if handled very much. Maybe that speaks more to my assembly techniques than to the marker itself. LOL I'll have to give it another try. I like your Fairlane, Roger. Feel free to post up pics, Chris... Thanks for letting me know about what paint you use, Nick.

Got a new question, Nick. What type of paint do you use? And do you use a primer or go straight over the tape?

Thanks Nick...

Happy birthday, John!

Mark, I have talked to Gene and Becky at Slixx. The blue and white decals for Bob Glidden's Fairmont are something they are looking at doing, but no time frame has been set. I am also working on a new body that will replicate that car, with the enlarged rear wheel well openings and modified front bumper treatment. The reworked front end isn't shown in the pics, below.

what do you guys use on the adhesive side to keep it from sticking to things you don't want it to stick to?

Fantastic job, Mike...!

Michael, To answer your question, the body that was copied is a drag race "pro stock" body with lengthened rear wheel wells, integral, narrowed bumpers, with a one-piece, extended hood/cowl panel like what was customary on that particular body style when they were raced. To go on record, I am working on a stock body Fairmont that will have stock rear wheel wells, separate bumpers, stock length hood, separate cowl panel (and hopefully a PE cowl vent). I have begun the process of lengthening the new Revell pan to match the 105.5" wheelbase and I've also started work on lengthening the chassis in the trunk area to match up to my body. You are right, the new Mustang will be a perfect match for it. I am also hoping to do interior side panels to match up to the body. Here are some pics of where it's at at this moment... There is still a fair amount of tweaking to do to make everything look the way I want it to, but I'm slowly making progress... Mike - I totally agree. I don't understand why a handful of people were so quick to give Shep the benefit of the doubt, and/or implied that I should just accept the advice that this sort of thing happens, and there isn't anything I can do about it... Why??? We have a Great Traders Thread pinned in the Trading Post category to let modelers know who to stay away from as trading partners or are good - why shouldn't people be made aware of situations like this??? If someone buys one of the WR bodies and its quality isn't up to the high standards that Ed and I are doing our best to maintain, but then my name or my business gets associated with the lesser quality product, who stands to suffer for it? I know I'm preaching to the choir with you, but I just want to put that out there for anyone who thinks this sort of behavior should be glossed over... One thing I will agree with that was stated - there are lots more skilled modelers out there than me who are fully capable of making their own Fairmont (or whatever body style). I am fully ready to accept that fact, as Ed said, even if it creates competition for me. I'm okay with that. All I ask is that they make it be their own creation and not a copy of mine... I would also hope that they do their due diligence and spend at least a few minutes conducting research before proceeding.

Dare I say that I'm impressed? I was going to make a comment earlier today after you'd removed all the kit ribs and was going to say it was as smooth as a baby's butt. It's too late for that now. LOL I truly am impressed by how good it looks with the addition of your newly relocated ribs. As much as I totally understand where you're coming from with doing a 3D version of this, you're going to have just as much time in getting all the print marks filled and sanded to get it to basically this same point. It would be sort of sad to see you spend this much time and do this fine a job, only to "throw it away" and start over. Unless you totally foul something up on this one, I'd "vote" for keeping what you've got going... Did I mention I'm impressed???

That looks great, Tim, and its setting just the way they should!

That looks outstanding, Ralph. Looking forward to more update!

Stupendous work, Clay...

She's looking great Tyrone! The levers look good, too...

Impressive auction, Tyrone. Whoever won your Camaro should be a very happy person...

I'll chime in here, too, Brad. What you've done so far on this build looks super. I've been watching along the past several days and I'm really looking forward to seeing your progress on this build. Keep up the great work!

Chris, Something you might consider doing is having it etched, but do it in such a way that you leave the "M" in the full thickness of the material and have the surrounding material half-etched away. I did that when I made the "embossed" MOROSO lettering for my scratch-built 351C valve covers. The big question is how much, to scale, does the lettering need to stand above the surrounding surface. How much above the surface of the blower is the 1:1 "M"? If it's .125", for sake of argument, that's just shy of .008" in 1/16th, so to do a half-etch you'd need to start with .015"-ish thick material. The only advantage of doing this versus etching only the "M" out of material is that you'd have a larger gluing surface and with the half etch the curvature of the etch would flow the proper direction, whereas with the fully-etched "M" you'll have the back side of the etch that is undercut. I hope you follow my thought process with all this rambling. LOL Maybe a bit more food for thought...

Sorry Chris. I haven't been on the board a lot recently and just saw your question. If it's a new order and the artwork has to be created, you should probably figure a minimum of three weeks, but more likely a month or more. What type of material are you talking? I can get stainless steel in .004", but the other materials and thicknesses that I typically use are .006, .010 and .016 nickel-silver. I've done some brass but not lots. I've gotten that in .006 and .010.

Thanks for the update, Wayne. I'll be waiting...

Looking good, Tyrone. I really like that second (closeup) silhouette shot...

Your work looks great, Clay, even if you claim it's a bit sloppy. I love where you're going on this... Scott

That looks phenomenal Tyrone...

Google “resin Fairmont” or “resin Fairmont body". I’ve posted on at least a half dozen boards over the last 6-8 years documenting its development and construction. I’ve worked with two casters, and there have been numerous iterations, so there are different versions of images you'll see. The first bodies were gray. The current ones are tan. There’s lots of info out there that dates back to 2005, much of which can be found in less than a minute’s time... As an aside, Fred Perez was the one who did the marvelous job of constructing a Fairmont out of a '65 GTO. Pics of his Fairmont will also come up when looking at Fairmont images.

I've stopped being amazed at what you do. It's too much the norm any more... LOL Super job buddy!

Super job, Chris. Man, oh man!

Amazing work, Clay. True nirvana...!