futurattraction

A work of art... Can't wait for your next update!

Thanks for the explanation, Tyrone. I appreciate it...

Looks great, Tyrone. Can you explain, briefly, how you construct your wheelie bar nets?

"Outrageous update and I don't know if it's been mentioned before, but your photography is tops." - I couldn't agree more. I love that high shot. Meticulous planning and (what appears to us mere mortals) flawless execution...

Looks super, Darryl. Thanks for sharing!

Looking forward to seeing more updates, Ray...

Prayers and best wishes to Paul and all of you who are helping and supporting him.

This just brings a smile to my face every time I see it...

Beautious!

Impressive work! Thanks for sharing...

Man oh man... You're the first person I've encountered, personally, who has tried soldering any of my photo etch. Looks great! Can't wait for more, brother...

Leonard, I'm thrilled to see you're getting back onto this. I've missed seeing updates on it in the past several months. Glad to have you back!

Superb work so far, Jeff. Can't wait for your next update!

That's a creative use of breather caps! LOL Do you happen to know their OD? They do a really nice job of finishing off your wheels.

She's looking fine, my friend... How did you come up with the spindle caps? Thanks.

Super cool, Tim... I love watching your work.

David, I use Alumilite clear with red or orange dye to make taillight and parking light lenses for my Fairmont. I measure out an amount of resin I plan to use for a bunch of lenses, then add the dye to that resin. That way you can get a consistent color throughout that set of castings. In my experience I have gotten along fine doing it that way. And "yes" the dye is super thick. I haven't experienced what you did but it takes considerable "squeeze" to get it to come out.

I am awe-struck, Tim. Looking forward to your next update...

Cool! The stance you've got set is is dead-on. I love the looks of it Joakim. Looking forward to more updates!

For what it's worth, I have used Smooth-On products with good success the past several years.

Nice progress, brother! The new tin work look fantastic. Can't wait for the next update.

Phenomenal work, Tim. Thanks, too, for the explanation you offered about the pinned driveshaft safety loop. I think someone's gonna have to come and help me off the floor, as well as Kerry...

Very nice work, Tyrone, as your builds always are. Keep up the fantastic work, bud!

Codi, What did you use to pin the removable top portion of the driveshaft safety loop?

I'm sorry to see/hear about what happened to your bottom panel, Chris. Like all of you have said, I wouldn't have supposed it would have done that. Changing gears, to the subject of degreasing or cleaning, Chief Joseph told me that the FUD material can be soaked in acetone to remove the wax that is left on the surface after the printing process. I have tried it, and it does seem to work. I didn't leave my parts in for an extended time, probably no more than an hour, but it seems to have worked well. Donilee and I are both interested in history and the sinking of the Titanic. That lower panel sort of reminds me of what the surface of the steel plate on the Titanic looks like after having been submerged for 100 years at the bottom of the Atlantic... I'm sure you'll be able to make the replacement fit as well as the original, but I understand the frustration.