futurattraction

Bart, Do you have pics of specific pieces you can send me?

I just posted the how-to, so let me know what you think. Whenver you're ready to order stuff, just let me know.

I laminated two separate pieces of .020" styrene sheet to make tubs that actually hold their shape really well, as can be seen in a couple of the pics. By laminating them while placed in the fixture the mating surfaces of the two separate pieces "lock in" the shape. I used styrene solvent between the two pieces before attaching them together. You can just choose the size of socket suitable to whatever you're making. Using my drill press, I drilled 1/8" holes in a piece of 1x4 so I knew the holes would be perpendicular, more or less guessing how far apart they needed to be. I used a set of cheap 1/8" carbide grinding bits to serve as posts. I wrapped tape around the tops of the interior ones so I wouldn't scratch the upper surfaces of the tubs. As seen in the third picture, the outer posts simply served as anchor points for rubber bands so the tub flats would be held securely against the socket while they set up. Here's a set of upper and lower blanks. I scribed some inset bead roll work into the upper piece. A pic of the fixture from one angle: And the other side. The bottom post serves as a limiter for the socket: Here they are, more or less in the shape in which they were fixtured... I hope this helps somebody else.

This will be a fun one to watch. I'll make a suggestion you can try sometime for tubs. For my original Fairmont tubs, I laminated two piece of .020" styrene sheet together and wrapped them around a larger OD socket and set them up in a fixture to hold everything together while they set up. They may not completely maintain the original shape, but having the two separate layers adhered together in an arc made them hold their shape pretty well - it certainly made them manageable to fit into the rest of the pan. Just so I don't hijack Darryl's thread, I'll post pics how I made mine in a separate thread. I'll post it in the tips and tricks area.

Thickness may or may not be a problem, depending on the part. The PE folks I'm working with can get material all the way up to ~.060", so in theory, something all the way up to 1" in 1:1 could be produced. Food for thought...

Hey Mike (and Chris), As you know Chris has already made the inquiry. For sake of conversation, what kinds of stuff do you guys have an interest in having made? The hand brake and lever set would obviously be one for the fuel cars, and rotors would/could be another for anything 1/16th, throttle linkage, etc. If/when I get into this, I'd like some good profile images of what you'd want them to look like.

Thanks Chris. Whenever it works out for you.

Hey Joe! I hope so! LOL Just let me know whenever you're ready...

Bart - thanks for explaining about the Fairmont. Lord willing, it will be available again soon in its current configuration... Chris, I forgot to address your question about 1/16th stuff. I would entertain that plan at some point. I feel like I've got so many irons in the fire right at the moment it probably won't happen super-soon, but I've given it some thought - and will continue to do so. Dom - the current body is a pro stock version with stretched, stock heigh rear wheel well openings, narrowed, blended bumpers, no fuel filler door and the extended hood (cowl incorporated into the rear of the hood). I do intend to do a stock body version that will probably use the AMT/Ertl Fox Mustang as a donor. I can't even begin to offer a time frame for that, but yours isn't the first comment I've heard about the need for a "stock" car. SP

Thanks for your compliment, Roger. I appreciate it! Derrick, I hope they're something that will appeal to the drag/hot street crowd. Hopefully more still will be coming down the pike. Dom, thanks for the good words. I like it too. It needs some refinement, but then I'm a perfectionist when it comes to a lot of this stuff and it drives me nuts! :-) As far as the Fairmont is concerned, it's been a long, long-term project of mine. I actually mastered the original body several years ago. It's gone through fixes, iterations, some damaged masters that had to be rebuilt, etc., etc. (and I'm a slow worker and get side-tracked easily) I am hoping to have them available before too much longer with some different hood choices, including flat, vintage 70s-80s boundary layer snorkel-style, such as shown in the pics, and a monster cowl hood. I'm reworking the floor pan so it's more authentic to a 1980-ish vintage pro stocker, i.e., proper location for main hoop,etc. I've also developed a whole series of add-on sub assembly parts packages, such as multi-media strut front end, multi-media narrowed 9-inch rear end, PE 4-link bracket kits with bars and formed wire rod ends, PE Lenco lever sets, along with a few other parts and pieces. I'm also working on getting dimensionally correct 14x32 drag slicks made, set up for the smaller 15-inch style wheel and crowned Cragar Super Tricks of that vintage. Chris, see above for answers to some of your questions. I have a skeleton website posted, but I haven't gotten much in the way of "guts" published yet. I work full-time and have concerns about opening the door and having little control over orders. I've been selling on eBay with good success, but I'm really wanting to expand. Pics of other parts I have include: Lenco levers, mount, spacers: Revell top sportsman retrofit PE 4-link kit (20 main pcs): Pro Mod PE 4-link kit (20 main pcs): Multi-media (40 pc) strut front end kit (going through some changes with this): Narrowed/braced 9-inch Ford with PE caliper brackets and rotors and resin brake details (16 pcs): Holley Dominator w/booster detail set (most are cast in white resin, but the pic Dominators are aluminum metallic powder-coated) : 351C Pro stock engine w/Lenco trans (30 pcs): Assembled (current version doesn't come with motor plate) That covers most of the main kits I'm offering. Scott

Sounds good Bart. I'm hoping I'll be much better set up, parts- and experience-wise, the next go-'round... SP

I received a cool looking set of PE parts from the etcher recently. There are clutch/brake/accelerator pedal assemblies, gusset and chassis tab sets, ring and latch detail for my 4-gallon upright fuel cell, hand brake/door handle/chute lever sets. I designed a PE snorkel top for my Fairmont hood that turned out really nice, and there are also Pro Stick/Quarter Stick levers and consoles. I'm not happy with the console cover (not shown), which needs some redesign. The next round of consoles will not have the pin hole (the lever pivot will be completely hiden inside the console), but they're available also. If you're interested in anything, let me know. Scott

I can't believe how good it looks Chris. I know it's been a ton of re-work, but you've got to be very happy with where it all stands now. I'm looking forward to your next update already!

That's looking really great so far! Your tube work looks good too... Keep up the great progress.

Super work on the seat, Chris! I much prefer the idea of having your girlfriend take the pics than holding it in your mouth and pressing the shutter release with your tongue... You oughta be tickled to death with how it turned out. Your cage looks great, too!

Amen to that!

Looks great Roger! It has a really nice rake.

Cool build! You've done a super clean job on her!

Merry Christmas to you and your family, Tyrone!

Fabulous work, Dave. I always love looking at your threads because I'm sure I'll be inspired and smiling when I see the progress you've made. Merry Christmas to you too!

That is just such amazing detail that I can hardly believe it. I'm not sure words really do justice to describe your level of building on this project. I always look forward to seeing what you've gotten done on it...

Oh, gee whiz. That's nearly unreal. Cast it up in aluminum with some cylinders, then get to work on the pistons! I wanta hear it run...

The work you're doing on this build is out-of-this-world Derrick!

Technically, Pete J is correct, in that there was no autonomous branch of the military, e.g., U.S.A.F. until 1947, however there was the U.S. Army Air Corps (1926) which became the Army Air Force (1941). The USAAC/USAAF was the air branch of the Army during WWII. There is a more detailed description in this link, if interested...http://www.aafha.org/aaf_or_aircorps.html

I think your Jag looks good, Fred. I realize it may not be what you wanted it to be, but it is still an excellent effort, and for those unfamiliar with the specifics, I/we would never know the difference. Get 'er finished up!