Codi

This is fun, I'll chime in too and step over to the Comp1839 side of the discussion (note I didn't say argument) To do it in brass, you'll get a level of satisfaction that is a tick above the same in plastic, with the reasoning and knowledge that not everyone CAN do it. It WILL be more time consuming but if you're building for your own personal satisfaction, then take the leap and try it in brass. if it becomes too overwhelming, then you can always do it in plastic right? I build to learn new things and like the challenge that comes with it. Hopefully you'll find the reward and satisfaction in that too. Cheers, Tim

Don't suppose you want to share your method Kevin? I understand if you'd prefer to keep that to yourself. It looks PERFECT! Tim

Thanks so much fellas. Hope to get some work done on it today and have it attached to the frame by tomorrow along with some additional bracing. Then I'll make the brackets for the wing and chutes. I'm anxious to mock it up with the body in place and the wing & wheelie bars attached to the chassis. Clayton - I use a 250 watt, American Beauty resistance soldering setup. Somewhere on this thread, I think I shared the model number. There are pros and cons of doing brass v. plastic, it's just what suits you and what you want to achieve. I say jump into the pool, the waters fine!

Chris, thanks for sharing your methodology when it comes to your fabrication processes. I've got to sharpen my computer skills to do some of the things you've presented, but just like learning any new skill, it would help me to be a better modeler. I like that back window and had planned to use it on a future build. Can't wait to see how it looks on your build. Cheers, Tim

Started the rear "tree" of the chassis. I have to thread the chute / wheelie bars and wing struts through the whole thing and make sure the trunk lid clears of course. Cheers, Tim

Kevin, that last pic REALLY shows the level of detail you've added to this piece. A few hundred modifications and additions and the next thing you know, it looks real when all are put together. You should be smiling at that pic and make it your screen saver for inspiration as you move ahead to completion. Super job! Tim

Bruce, so good to see you back at it on this build. Love the new posts and progress. Your tire weathering skills are simply perfection. I swear I had to take 3 looks at em' to discern that they weren't the real thing. The best weathering of a tire I've ever seen, at least in our hobby. And the intake screens are of a similar quality. Now I remember WHY i always look forward to your posts. Cheers, Tim

Very good progress Joe. I always enjoyed hacking and shaping and bondo, but only up to a point. It's the really fun & creative side of the hobby I guess. But bondo, sand, primer, bondo, sand, primer, bondo, sand, primer, bondo, sand, primer, bondo, sand, primer, bondo, sand, primer, bondo, sand, primer....gets a little old at some point. Can't wait to see it when you're past that stage. Cheers dude!

Ray, yup, I must admit, it was worth it afterall, just needed a few days for my memory to dim over the aggravation they caused me. Henry, you're quite welcome. Dave - Nope, I have no need for the old one, BUT, i do save certain parts as you never know when it might come in handy in some way on another build, right? But I most assuredly appreciate your sense of humor!

Paul, i bought mine from RCFOAM.COM - They have an excellent assortment. The problem you'll run into is I build for accuracy as much as is feasible and the smallest tube they offer is 1.8mm which scales to 1.8". Real 1:1 wheelie bars are 1.6" in diameter. The difference doesn't sound like much but on the car you'll see it. Just compare the pic of the 2 sizes I made as the 1st was only .3mm smaller than the second but it looks downright skinny next to the proper size. They offer 1.5 and 1.6mm ROD which I used but had to drill out, but it is a real PITA to do so as it easily splinters. That's what took me so long to make these and made it a bit frustrating. IF and when they ever offer 1/16" CF tube, they'll sell a bunch of it just for wheelie bars alone. That or you're going to see at the shows a bunch of cars with oversized wheelie bars. Hope this helps. I might not have enjoyed making them but I DO like the result. The look of the real CF bars on the car just can't be beat IMO. Cheers

Appreciated fellas, they were frustrating to make. The hands good now Joe, a little sore and swollen at times, but a couple more weeks and I'm expecting no problems at all. Thanks for asking. Scott (futurattraction) no meaning on the penny date. I was born in 56' though. I would like to thank and acknowledge Scott for his products as well. I used 5 of his PE nickel brackets on the wheelie bar assembly in addition to the 2 brackets I used from dirtmodeler (they were brass btw). We're fortunate as builders to have suppliers such as these guys to provide these types of products. It would make scratch building far more time consuming if we had to make such mundane items too. NOT meant to demean what they they offer of course as they provide a VALUABLE service/product. It's just that I'd rather spend MY efforts and creative juices making different parts for the build. So I'll take one last moment to thank in no particular order, RB Motion - Scale Hardware - DirtModeler - Futurattraction - BNA Models (of Australia) and M.A.S. (machined aluminum specialties) ....if I've not mentioned someone that I've used on this build, my sincerest apologies in advance. Cheers to all of you guys! Tim

And if anything will show a flaw, it's Alclad. Shows how good your prep really was Chris. Cheers, Tim

Hi, I finally got the dirtmodeler chrome bracket on that I received recently and think it thoroughly completes the wheelie bar. Comments welcome. Cheers Now it's time to move on to complete the back end of the frame.

Just stumbled across your thread Andy. Glad I finally did and will be following along like many others. Great build you've got going and your fabrication skills are something to see. Cheers, Tim

Dwayne, your trailer is shaping up VERY nicely. I like the design and how you've executed it so far. It's obvious you have a plan on how to approach your builds and it will be fun to watch your progress. Dave (comp1839) is probably the best source on this forum for the info you're seeking and his advice is invaluable. Cheers, Tim

Dwayne, do you have any links or posts of previous builds you've done? Cheers, Tim

Nice job Ray. I'm curious how your new casting supplies work out for you too. Cheers

Appreciated it guys. Chris, look up the Nickel plate eletro plating kit, it doesn't have the copper solution (which you don't need to get started) and it's $36.99 too! Ray, I'm nuts, not insane. I've used on all my builds R & B Motion Rod Ends. They're some things that just aren't worth taking the time to make and his machined Rod Ends are of the best quality. Cheers

Kevin, you are surely to be commended for the cleanliness of your execution on this project. That is an impressive amount of fabrication you're doing and yet the build looks spotless & flawless in every way. This will look very sharp when it's done I've no doubt. Thanks for sharing the cutter pic you posted. I'll have to locate one of those and give it a try myself. Cheers, Tim

John, thank you for the compliment and taking the time to check out my other builds....as few as they may be. Chris, best thing is to do a "bing" search for "caswell $49.99 nickel plate / copper kit......you should get the link to their site you need. I must admit, of all the vendor websites I go to, theirs is one of the worst to navigate. Great product, 1999 era website (search wise). As mentioned, did the bars over today. Here they are in their proper scale. The real 1:1 bars, for those interested are 1.6" in diameter. They are not glued together as you see them and the couple of support brackets have yet to be affixed....but here they are. Cheers, Tim

Thanks Ray.....it's just the way I was raised and the way I am. Here's a pic and you can see the difference between the original and what I'm fabbing as we speak. Cheers, Tim

Michael - its frail looking because I made it the wrong dimension. I thought the same thing when I put them on the car but accepted it was right. It took me about 90 minutes to finally find the CORRECT diameter that the real thing is made from.....my bars are 25% too narrow. I'm re-doing the whole thing. Thankfully I have the materials on hand (won't have to re-make the wheelie wheel and housing) and more importantly the KNOWLEDGE on the dimensions (length of tubes etc.) and how to fab down solid. I suspect I can get em' remade in little more than a day. I KNOW they'll look more appropriate then. Silly what a few tenths of a millimeter mean huh but I won't compromise on their accuracy.........so......... Chris - the kit you're seeking is the $49.99 nickel plating kit from caswell. be sure to read their directions and try some of the tips I've shared here on the best way to get decent results.....at least from what I've learned thru experience. Cheers

One more small horizontal bar to add and some beautiful chrome dirtmodeler brackets and these are done. They're not glued together yet but you'll get the idea. I strongly dislike making wheelie bars btw. This 3 bar unit fought me every which way. It was without a doubt the most aggravating thing I've made to date for this build. And that's saying alot. Thanks for letting me vent a little bit. Cheers, tim

Chris, thank you for taking the time to document your design and fabrication of the latch assembly. At this point though, I wouldn't have expected anything less. Sorry, but you set the bar higher for yourself each and every time. Keep jumping my friend. It's fun to watch!! Tim

That last pic does justice to your build. Looks real Tyrone. Cheers, tim