Codi

Hi Brad, inside their pamphlet they state that the surface of the material to be plated should be warmed up for better results. And they mention the plating solution will perform better in a "warmer" state. So through experimentation and a bit of web search, I came across the method of using clean boiling water that I dip the part into to warm the surface while I hook up the electrodes to the container of plating solution.. By the time I heat this stuff in my microwave (don't tell my wife) and run to the hobby room, it cools off a bit so it's just very warm to the touch at that point. The water doesn't effect the process at all. I do NOT boil the plating solution however as I have no idea if it might cause bad things to happen...I only heat it up till I see the 1st bubble or so form and then take it out. Hook up the electrodes and begin immediately the process. Last suggestion, use just enough plating solution to cover the part in while you dip. My parts are so small that I use what could be described as the diameter of a small paper cup and fill it up as far as necessary to cover the piece during the process. You'll get soot if you're too close to the electrode or use too much solution. A little more practice & experimenting and I know you'll get it. Cheers

Wonderful update John. Wouldn't be surprised if you finished this in 3 or 4 weeks at the rate you build. Just incomprehensible how you do that. Cheers, Tim

Brad, check out my earlier "reports" on how I used the kit and my experiences. I think it will help. I only use tix SILVER solder so I can't speak to the "soot" experience on the solder itself other than it's happened to me too but I've been getting better at it with practice and get fewer "soot" moments. Keys I've found are to move the piece in the solution rapidly back and forth and don't get it too close to the electrode or use too much solution. It only takes a minute or less to start getting the process working on very small parts. The other thing I did that they recommend is to heat up a cup of hot water and then to heat the solution as well to almost boiling. Dip the piece you want plated in the hot water first and let it warm up for a few moments then put it in the hot plating solution while moving it around rapidly. Makes a big difference I've discovered. A little bit of experimentation and I'm sure you'll get the hang of it and good results. But you might want to change to silver solder like I use as the joints as you've seen in the pics I've posted come across as one and the same. If I can be of any other guidance/assistance, please don't hesitate to ask. I just did my brass battery tray and it turned out pretty sharp. Hope this helps. Cheers, Tim

Started to replace the chassis pinion yoke hoop that I had put on the chassis originally. Didn't care for it and saw a design I did like. As you'll see from the one pic I made quite the mess trying to figure out how to make it. But its done. Not sure whether I'll plate it, dye or paint it just yet. The shape is oblong so that it fits nicely between the frame rails. Cheers Here's a pic with the driveshaft RPM sensor on the side. Everything is temporarily in place for these pics. And here's the big ol' mess I made while figuring how to get it made. It'll take as long to clean up my mess as it took to make the part.

Good morning, I'll address each of you personally, Chris - Man if that's what it takes, I'll make and post some more soon. I know I speak for many in that we hope you can find the time and motivation to complete your Funny soon. Just a small step or piece would be a great beginning............and hopefully the flood gates open. Cheers Clayton - Appreciated sir. Bob - your comment about the scale and my attempt at accuracy mean a lot as I put a lot of effort into that. It's a model and I know it's NOT perfect by any measure, but I'm doing my best to make it as different but true to it's theme as I can. Joe- (pictured smoke filled room with smoke filling the room and Joe the stand-up comic is on stage delivering his "bomb") BaDaBUM goes the drum after it's delivery. And the room goes silent. Okay, a bit harsh I know Joe but you're right, how can a shock sensor be funny right?!?! But thanks for trying. Scott- Appreciated as well and always. More pics today or tomorrow, had some bench time last night but that part didn't turn out the way I wanted, gonna do it again.

The fun in checking out your latest pics is always looking at/for the little details that might be missed or that we simply might not think to look for. I like the little weld plates at the ends of your roll cage tubes to attach them to the floor. Simple but perfect. Your cage looks great too btw. Thanks for sharing John. Tim

That was fast John, I was just posting that when you must have jumped on-line.....anyways, greatly appreciated my friend I assure you. Now I'm going to jump over to look for more stagecoach updates from you!!!!! Cheers

Thank you Cesar and Bob. Always fun to see others from other countries following along. Been working on the shock sensors. These have been tedious to do as the space to locate them is virtually non-existent. I wanted to make them realistic so I've added the sensing cables as well. Anyways, here's the left side done and one more bracket to solder up for the right. Cheers, Tim (just noticed I started this thread 1 year ago as of yesterday.........)

GREAT update John. Just chuggin' along. I forgot, what scale is this build? Cheers, Tim

Uh-oh. Joe's moving fast now and doing a bunch of scratch building too. I can't wait to see the hinged roof you've got planned for it. keep her going Joe! tim

S-I-C-K I tell ya'. This build is SO cool and moving along SO fast too. No one John can touch you for the quality, creativity and speed with which you build. It's why I love to see your threads. When we do meet someday, I want to pick your brains on how you do some of the things you do............just fantastic! Cheers, Tim

John, thanks for the thought. Mitch, I hope your health issues are behind you and we see what you're working on soon. The kit and parts you've chosen sound like you have the "vision" of the car already figured out. John, thank you sir. Having spoken to Joe the other day, I really must make plans at some point to make it the GSL show or somewhere in your "neighborhood" so I can meet the West Coast posse. (get it, stagecoach build, cowboy theme.......oh never mind) Glad you're still following along too! Cheers, Tim

So that's how you use it. I bought one of those several years ago Brad and never got the results you did. But the "trick" you used to make your headers makes perfect sense and it obviously works. I'll be sure to try out your method when I do my funny car. Nice job on those and thanks for sharing. Cheers, Tim

My 33' Willy's

Hi Chris, well now, you 3 "cowboys" have our attention..............any chance we'll see another post by the weekend? Have fun with it, I know you will. Cheers

Hey Joe, it was great having the chance to chat yesterday. Your plans for this build sound truly unique. But you're going to have to really get after it now after seeing what Mr. Teresi has already made on his stagecoach. We both know how fast he builds. This will be entertaining for all of the members of the forum that follow along. Cheers dude, Tim

Great to have you here again posting your work and skills John. Your start is nothing short of awesome. Cheers, Tim

Hey Joe, thanks for the comment and check your PM. Cheers

Today I did the valve cover breather "vent" tubes that have hoses that I'll route either through the frame rails or tubes from the valve covers. Either way the tubes end at the puke tank. It took me almost 3 hours to make these little buggers. The base of each is a MCGarage small header flange that I thinned & drilled out and dropped in T2M bolts. The bent tubes themselves scale out at 1.15mm (not quite 1 1/4") they started as R & B Motion A/N fittings that I cut down and everything was super glued with Devon 2 part epoxy. The small (1.0mm in length) fitting on each of the bent tubes is polished 1.4mm stainless steel tube. I want to thank Dave (comp1839) for the photos he sent of several current design options before I got started on these, it was a big help. The pic I took was as close to the engine as I could get and have it not be blurry and still the show the detail of the two "vent" tubes. Cheers, Tim

Thank you John for the update and clarification. And yes, timing is everything. I read your edit & I respect what you posted and acknowledged. Did you read my response to your earlier question btw? Cheers, Tim

Okay, I'd like to call a "timeout" on this conversation. I've got building to do and the car / engine is accurate at this point. Thanks, Tim

Thanks Derrick..... Never weighed it Ray, I'll have to take a moment sometime just for giggles. John, both. there's a good pic on page 13 of this thread that shows the inters mounted on the main hoop up and out of the way of the fire bottles. There was no room to mount the fire bottles in the back half of the chassis. It's a tight fit everywhere and anywhere on the car that's for sure. Cheers, Tim

This part of the build is done. I got the intake on and the throttle body detailed a bit as well. Time to get back and wrap up the back of the chassis. Cheers, Tim

Nice Tyrone, may I ask how you're doing your cable ties on the chassis? They look spot on. Cheers, Tim

Hey Joe, how's it going on your hobby room? You've got some pretty sweet things to put in there based upon the pics and boxes I've seen. Cheers, Tim