6bblbird

Richard, you are doing some really nice work on this Charger. Great fabrication! I love what you did with the front end. Now I want to point out something that bothers me every time I see it! That tubing that you have from the fire wall to the chassis really serves no purpose. Not only that, but it would actually prevent the wheels from turning! On a real Charger, the tires come very close to the frame when turned all the way to the lock position. P.S. Don't use the power brake booster unless the engine has a stock camshaft.

Niko, great job! This is turning out quite well. Regarding the shields over the carbs. They are there to prevent fuel from being siphoned out of the the tops of the carbs while at speed. The airflow over the carb will pull fuel out in a liquid and vapor form and it would travel back toward the driver. Not a good thing if it were to catch fire. It also severely leans out the carbs. Velocity stacks also help to prevent this from happening. WF

Looks more like drag racing than road racing to me. Just like the the very early days here in the US. Good luck to them!

Terrific job! Well done.

That '55 is killer! You should be proud of that one! WF

You did good on that one. It definitely brings back memories! I had an original issue when I was a kid and I remember that it fought me! I saved the engine and the canopy. The canopy became a hood bubble on a Challenger!

How about.......ASTOUNDING! Great skills Clifford!

As stated earlier: Museum quality!

That is, without a doubt, the most perfect weathering job I've ever seen. I guarantee that with the right background you would have the most seasoned modeler believe that is a 1:1 car! Freakin' awesome!

Neat little car!

Those cars are probably very nice but can't really tell because your camera is way below par. Too blurry.

Here is a pic of the 1:1 model after coming out of storage. Lots of parts and will probably cost a bit more than a mint Johan kit. Resto should begin soon.

The hood was most likely designed for the AMT body. It required just a little sanding along the sides and some slight recontouring at the rear. Easy to do and the hood fits well.

Only have one of these kits left. I have plans for it. I want to build a copy of my 1:1 race car. Still looking for some nice Weld wheels.

The AMT body looks like it got hit in the back by a truck. The quarter panels look like the result of bad body work, so it would be correct to replicate my 1:1 '68 road runner! Don't even get me started on those tail lights. The car looks like they started out well at the nose and gave up on everything behind the door jambs.

That is a Perry's hood. I used the Johan interior tub as the better detailed AMT tub would not fit well. I stated earlier that I used an AMT '71 Charger chassis. That is incorrect. I used an AMT road runner chassis.

Johan body and interior tub with a AMT chassis from a '71 Charger. Keith Marks decals. Someday I'm going to put the hood pins and 6bbl decal on the hood. Someday. WF

Major "WOW!" on this one. Great detail work! WF

I think that the '34 looks better as a roadster than a coupe. Nice job!

The real ones sunk on every panel!

Interesting transmission. Looks like a B&M clutch hydro.

Great job on that engine!

"Finally got started. Started putting the frame together. It was harder than I thought it would be to get everything aligned correctly. The rear end had to mounted as part of the frame. Bill" Actually, you can install the differential after the frame is "welded" together. What I did was to slice the end of one axle tube off at the point where it exits the mounting hole in the frame. Now that the diff is shorter on one side it can be slipped into the chassis! If you saved the piece that you removed, you can add it back on after the diff is installed in the frame or use a piece of styrene tubing. WF

TV? Heck , that brings back scary memories from when I first started driving (street racing?)!!! Great job!

You get an A+ on both the grille and tail lights!