6bblbird

There were (are) some Stock and Super Stock 'cuda racers that replaced the rear valance panel with one from a 6 cyl. car or Grand Coupe. I like the clean look so I filled the holes in mine. Another common practice was to remove the door mounted mirrors for better aerodynamics and less weight so out comes the putty. I actually lost one of the mirrors so this idea works out for me. I did find the transmission pan though! I really do like the way that Revell put those recesses in the doors for the mirrors and the door handles. WF

If you want to go the super stock route be prepared to do a lot of surgery to frame and move the springs in quite a bit. I will definitely be doing one or two of these. As a s/s car the lowest class that you would be able to run would be SS/C or SS/CA but most common class would be SS / D or SS/ DA. WF

Paint and detailing look great. I like the low stance. WF

Some may not mind the wheel opening lips at all. To me? They just did not seem right. The 1:1 fenders have a very narrow lip. If the car has stainless mouldings the lip is a little bit wider, but still not as wide as the kit. I think that this car, especially a race car, looks better with a smooth look. I may add some strip styrene to more closely represent the 1:1 wheel openings. WF

Got the body on the chassis. That was a bit of a wrestling match. It was very difficult getting the chassis pan to clear the quarter panels. Gonna be scary once the body is painted getting it back on again. Next time I might trim the chassis behind the wheel openings. The wheel opening mouldings on this car are ridiculously wide. After looking at them for a while I decided to sand them off. Rear wheel tubs have very little room for big tires. I used some skinny slicks on this oneand they barely fit. If you plan on building a Super Stocker or Pro Stocker you are going to have to move the springs inboard and modify the wheel tubs. Just like the real thing!

Thanks guys. With holidays and snow days I am getting quite a bit done. Chassis is almost complete. I need to install a battery and fire it up! Testor's Diamond Dust lacquer makes for a pretty convincing paint for the shaker scoop, grille, and "fish gill" rocker panel mouldings. WF

A somewhat blurry pic of the master cylinder with brake lines, the tach cable, and the wiper motor with blob of red oxide primer on it. Wiper motors were required to be in place on Stock Eliminator cars. The power brake booster was not required, so I converted to manual brakes for weight savings. WF

I also lost the differential cover! I'm sure that the trans pan and cover will show up some day. I had a couple of chromed Dana 60 covers in stock so no problem. Notice that I used red oxide primer on the floor pan. Some builders use grey primer but my 1:1 '69 road runner has red oxide primer that is very noticeable in the trans tunnel so I went with that. I removed the fuel tank with the back of a x-acto blade simply because it makes it easier to paint. Champagne Gold make a reasonable bare steel color. Five point harness that nearly cost my my eyesight and patience is in place along with the Hurst Quarter Stick. Good look at the cable drive tach. WF

Yep! One thing that most everyone neglects when building a drag car is the driveshaft loop! Gotta have one if you are running slicks (most cars). Real easy to make. Just slice off a piece of 5/16" tubing and add some flat stock. Paint red and add a couple of photo etch bolt heads ( I didn't add the bolts yet ), in the above photo you can see the deep transmission pan. I lost the kit part and scrounged this one from a Polar Lights Funny Car. We always ran deep pans on our Torqueflites. No worries about not having a pan for the F/C as the trans will be wrapped in a blanket. The headers came from a Revell '69 Charger. They fit perfectly! I added aluminum tubing for the collectors. I have to touch-up the paint on the headers. I painted them with Alclad but when I applied a wash, it washed the Alclad away. Might hit the bare spots with some rust. WF

Here's another look at the tach. The cable is made from guitar string. WF

Instument panel decals are pretty nice. Roll bar fit is pretty good. You can see the Moroso style, cable drive tach that I built along with the gauge panel in front of the radio. The roll bar padding is shrink tube. The slits face upwards where they won't be seen. WF

This is my first build of the new Revell '70 Hemi 'cuda kit. I wanted to build it stock but not showroom stock so I decided to build it as a class legal NHRA Stocker circa 1980s. I start with the interior. First thing is to build a roll bar as required by the rules. I used Revell '69 Charger parts for the main hoop. I added the side bars and rear bars along with a bar behind the driver. WF

I suppose a lot of people might think that Bob Ford was a person, but Bob Ford was the name of the dealership that sponsored this and many other Ford drag cars. The driver of this one was Len Richter. They were in Dearborn MI although the model looks to be from Dearorn (?). WF

Thanks! That is called scratch building and kit bashing! The body started out as 2 Hemi Under Glass bodies. One had the wheelbase altered and the other supplied the nose so that it could be stretched. WF

Your GTO came out very well. I recently built that same kit. I thought that it was absolute junk! I finished it (for a club contest) but it went back in the box, never to be seen again! WF

I can see why that is one of your favorites. Every once in a while we build something where almost everything just comes out right. this one has a lot of right! WF

Super job! Your Dad is gonna love it. I love it! WF

I just like this one:

My friend, Bill Gonsowski, did this photo shop job: WF

While not a '69, the car below shows that Oldsmobile bodies can be used in a Pro Mod or Outlaw application. Best bet would be to use one of the Revell "Pro Sportsman" kits for a donor chassis. WF

Here is the engine pic. Unlike most (all) of my builds, this one has no wiring, fuel lines, battery cables, etc.. Just wanted to get it off od my bench!

This one is done! I think that it may be my only completed build of 2013. The only thing left to do is paint and install the air cleaner. I'll post an engine photo as soon as I finish painting the air cleaner. I used a marker "brush pen" to do the class and car number. It kinda looks like shoe polish. I was so afraid that I would slip and mes up the glass. One thing that I really wanted to do was to put Goodyear Front Runners on the Weld wheels but I could not find them. I found 3 sets today!

I did this one in memory of the original issue kit that I did as a kid. I loved that model. Don't know whatever happened to it but I was ecstatic when it was re-released. I just had to build a replica. I had more and better pictures but Fotki took them on vacation to wherever the hell they are going. WF

Some Funny Cars of that era ( ie: Bruce Larson's '68 Camaro) actually had operational driver's doors. Funny Car bodies of the late '60s were molded directly from passenger cars and the panel lines would be quite evident on the fiberglass body. I agree with Chris. That kit is a real challenge. Mine got the better of me and was never completed. Chris's Cougar looks great. WF