6bblbird

Mean stance on that one!

Looks terrific! I like the tail lights. How did you make them look realistic? The kit parts are junk as supplied. I'm very partial to yellow '68s as my very first car was a yellow '68 road runner. The taxi reference reminds me of the time I drove my car in to Manhattan (1972). I swear that every time I stopped at a traffic light someone came over to the car and grabbed the door handle! Later that week I had a black vinyl top installed! True story! WF

This one was done with Tamiya spray cans: The colors were pretty close to the MCW bottle paints. I know that someone is gonna ask me what #s I used. I really can't remember. Maybe, in the future I'll remember to make notes on my Fotki album. WF

Michael, MCW (Model Car World) is an internet based model paint supplier and great resin manufacturer. http://www.mcwautomotivefinishes.com/ Take some time to check out their web site. Very cool stuff there. They recommend their part # 6452 for the Sox & Martin white. I've used it but I prefer a brighter white. Don't want to hijack this thread by posting these pics but they may give you an idea what the MCW paints look like on a completed model. The '66 car with Ford paint codes: The '71 car: Can't really tell the difference between the two in the photos right? Pictures on the internet rarely look like the model! So, should you use any old paint? IMO, probably not because in person, with ambient light, they just look right. WF

The Ramchargers had a setup like this on their '65 AWB car. According to the book We Were the Ramchargers the electric pump kept the Moon tank always full and somewhat pressurized which avoided starvation upon acceleration. Also helped ease initial start up. WF

Uh, no, but I was a Boy Scout in 1965. Does that count?

There is no reason why you could not run a line from a rear mounted fuel cell, through an electric pump, to the tank in the front. I believe that the Moon tank on this car is mainly for a nostalgic look and is not really necessary. Here is how I would plumb it. Rear mounted fuel cell to inline filter and electric fuel pump. Electric pump to Moon tank. Moon tank now supplies engine driven, mechanical pump. Mechanical pump to barrel valve. Return line would run from barrel valve, back to the top of the moon tank or back to the fuel cell. Hope this makes sense. WF

So many of these have been built. Not many as nice as this one. That color looks terrific. WF

Since I started this thread over 6 years ago many things have changed but I'm happy to report that my driver is now starring in a major motion picture! Have you seen it yet? WF

A true labor of love! Great modeling skills here. WF

Only when I'm not being a jackass!

You might want to try these if you are looking for accuracy: Paint numbers from MCW: Sox & Martin '64-'67 - 6452 white, 6436 Guardsman Blue Metallic , 6238 Rangoon red (The blue and red are Ford paints) '68+up: 6452 white, 6853 Electric Blue Poly Metallic, 6861 Bright Red (The blue and red are Mopar colors) WF

I saw that paragraph on the Mopar Hall Of Fame site. Don't know much about Jake's Ford history but somewhere I have a pic of him wheeling a 409 Chevy! I did get the story about the paint from a conversation I had years ago with Herb McCandless. So........ WF

Yes!

Do you know why Jake King painted the engines blue and that the S&M team cars were painted with Ford paint up until 1968 ? Had nothing to do with Jake King's "Ford roots". He was a Chevy guy long before S&M's rather short association with Ford. The answer is simply because they had a lot of free Ford paint left over from their previous Ford sponsorship. They just saved money where they could! Chrysler brass strongly suggested that they switch to corporate colors in 1968. Jake still stuck with the blue engine paint until ( I guess) they ran out. I believe that Chrysler gave them the paint at no charge. WF

The photo of car # 401 was taken at the '69 Winternationals. It has a '65-'67 style Hemi Super Stock hood. The B/MP designation tells me that it's a Hemi. The 440 6bbl package, including the fiberglass, lift-off hood would not be available for a few more months. Too bad that someone at S&M didn't chronicle all of their cars and their customers cars. WF

Force? Engine size?.......Extra large. Sorry, couldn't resist. All NHRA Top Fuel and Fuel Funny Car engines have been restricted to 500 cid for quite a while now. WF

Just about done! I couldn't wait for the sun to come up so I shot these with a flash. The flash really brings out the flake in this paint. She's all decaled and striped. I love the way the headers look with the collector extensions. ( no tethers required.....yet) I made side glass so that I could add a class designation and more decals.I still have to add a competition number and possibly a sponsor on the 1/4 panel and a name on the doors. I was worried about the fit of the rear valence and it was a p.i.t.a. You can see where it popped down. Next time, i'll trim more from the spring hanger and remove some material from the inside of the valence. All in all it was a fun build although it did challenge me at times. Things to watch out for when building one of these: 1. The rear valence fit. The rear spring shackles must be filed way down in order to get the valence in place. 2. If you use a wired distributor make certain that the dist. cap is as close to the block as possible so that you cn close the hood! 3. Installing the window glass. It just barely fits the window opening. Be careful when gluing it in place and don't leave any foil in the recesses. There is no margin for error. 4. Remember not to glue the chassis to the tub untill the tub is installed in the body. 5. You may want to remove some material from the sides of the chassis pan behind the rear wheel tubs to help with installation and you might also want to remove the material on the radiator support that fits into the fenders ( no one will notice if you do). It will make it much easier to join the chassis to the body. WF

Oil pan looks good. I never thought of stacking styrene sheet to make the sump. Seems much easier than trying to make a box from sheet. WF

This is great. I'l be watching this one! WF

Paint is polished and it's time to foil. Silver is so shiny that it's hard to see the foil! If you build an E body, remember to foil the area below the windshield. These cars always came with a polished, stainless steel cover in this area. it would show up better if the car was a contrasting color. I'm going to re-do the flat black weather strip. I thought that I had masked it well. The camera shows everything! WF

I have always wanted to build a '71 'cuda but I just can't seem to get over all of the innacuracies of the Revell/Monogram kit. In addition, it's 1/24 scale which doesn't work for me. I have some Johan '71 bodies that are ( in my opinion ) pretty good. Unfortunately, they never came with anything but race car interiors, and running gear. I am going to try and mate one of these bodies with the new Revell '70 'cuda interior and chassis. I'll keep you posted. WF

Wasn't so frigid last night so I shot some paint on the 'cuda: My original intention was to paint the car with Tamiya's Silver Leaf. I shot the car and was not at all happy with the way it turned out. Rather than strip the paint, I used it as a base coat for Testors' AMC Sterling Silver. It was a major improvement. Very smooth with lots of metallic flakes. Now that the car was "flaky" I felt that the shaker scoop should contrast with the main color so I painted it red. I also painted the taillight panel with semi-gloss black. Now, on to foil! WF

Got 'er painted. Oh, you want pictures? Not until I do some repair work. Silver shows every flaw and even some stuff that I did not know was there! Pics later WF

AHRA got a head start on the NHRA when it came to heads-up "stocker" racing. They called their version " Super Stock Eliminator" hence the SSE designation. The half thickness side glass in the original Hemi cars was called Chemcore. Lexan is allowed as a replacement for the original glass. WF