Prostreet

What's the usual shipping timing i can expect with hobby link japan?

Uhh, It's not done yet , No need to shout

Nice work dave, Turned out great. Jim looks like what the heck you have to take my picture lol.

Everybody pretty much nailed everything i would like to see, For the front mouting tabs for the A-arms for the struts, The brackets i made mount to .100" styrene rod. I think pretty much if you did them to fit .080" or .100" size rod you would be good, That seems to be the most common size for the front of a 1/16th scale chassis. Maybe some mounts to mount the front clip on the front of the chassis like in the picture. maybe some chute handle's, brake and gas pedals, I'm sure some other things will pop into my head.

Great stuff Mark, How would i go about purchasing some?

Nice work Mike looks good, Thx. for the write up.

Scott: If you look at post #277 on page 14 the picture Dave posted, If you could do a bracket for the door like that would be very helpful. Not sure what could be done on the chassis side, Maybe Bart or Dave could chime in with some ideas, My brain is half fried right now from working on my doors. There driving me crazy, Hope to have some updates tonight. Also i don't mind the conversation in my thread, that's why we are all here to help each other, But a thread for suggestions and ideas would be cool.

Jack: I just based my center rails off the engine block and trans by looking at pictures and it has worked out for me, You can scale it down off a 1:1 which Bart (eviltwincustoms) and Dave (comp1839) on here do. I did scale down some stuff but not everything, My next one i will scale everything down. Another thing to consider when scaling down is your body scaled down correctly from a 1:1, if it's not then scaling everything else down can throw you off. I just traced the outline of the body and marked where the doors were and the center line of the body so my chassis would be centered, I also marked where the center of the wheels were to the wheelbase. Bart was a big help in getting me started in the right direction. After dinner i will PM you the rail spacing.

Man that looks bad a$$, great work.

Nice work Chris and congrats on the new Job.

Nice work as usual Tyrone, I have been picking up parts here and there to start a 1/25 build like this.Not sure on what body i wanna do yet. Any pics of the hinges?

I just decided to build my own, with buying the squirell cage blower and all the material i have about $145 invested, I will post some pictures once it is done.

Wow, This is great news Mike, Can't wait to get my hands on this stuff.

Thx. for the help an info Bart and Tyrone. Be back later with pictures and how i make out.

Thx. Dave, I see what you are saying. I was trying to picture it in my head before but it would not compute lol, It's very easy to move as nothing is glued yet. I will report back later.

Here's a picture of the hinge point.

Bart: There is no sag in the door, That is one thing i made sure of. The front clip and doors have been thinned down, So your saying feather the inside of the front clip some to give more clearence? I was thinking of different ways to do the hinges but mine is pretty close to everyone else's. I want that clip to door gap tighter for when the car is all put together so i may just have to accept the fact that the door can't open with the front clip on. I'm off from work today so i'm gonna mess with it some more.

Thx. Bart, Well i'm running into a problem and need some help/advice. Did the drivers door hinge today and when i open the door it hits the front clip even with the body gap you see in the first picture, I would really like to have the gap tighter. the 3rd picture shows the door as far as it will open with the clip on. I figure it will be displayed with the doors open and the clip off 99% of the time, but trying to figure out another way to do the hinges where it will work.

Rom, Brakes look great, I have the same setup except mine are going to be a steel rotor.

Joe: You should be able to adapt the sportsman kit to the resin body No problem, The reason you see alot of hand made chassis is were doing 1/16th promods and you can get pretty accurate like the 1:1 chassis. Check out Tyrones 68 camaro narrow promod body, I believe he is using a flashpoint body and adapted the same chassis.

Nice work Rom, gives me some ideas for my master cylinder.

Looking good, I like altereds.

Looking good Joe, Can't wait to see it under power.

That is some very amazing modeling. Who makes that tool for cutting the brass sheet?

Ken, looks outstanding. i thought the fenders looked high from the ones i seen before, But i don't follow dirt track that much so i didn't think to much of it. It still looks great the way it is.