scalenut

I notice most model builds posted of the 70 super bee (with the horse collar grill openings) display the lower center section of the grill chromed , yet when I look at original cars online ... most originals are color keyed to the body color. can the mopar crowd enlighten us on how common or historically appropriate each option was? thanks in advance

* removed bad video

acrylic ink and future mix... the dark flows great into the crevases and the future component makes the chrome all shiney

one trick to these paints is to back off with the can ...way off ... they can not be sprayed as close as most spray can paints .. once I figured this out the results improved considerably...

applying too heavy will make it become duller

5 hr energy drink bottles

wives tale ( unless the compressor is somehow leaking from the crankcase)

non-acetone fingernail polish remover will take off the lacquer undercoat.. I have soaked parts in it between 15-30 minutes and the undercoat wrinkles right off. one warning be carefull the plastic can be damaged if you poke or scrub on it too hard to get in the little nooks . let the parts dry fully and any remainder will flake off..the surface of the part can be scratched/damaged while it's still wet.

ebay seller "katevo"

like many of their products ... the candys are an enamel. "alclad II Lacquers" is the name of the company brand

I like to keep the work area open so I store things in drawers to the right and directly under the bench

"one coat" means that the colors can be sprayed and achieve a decent gloss in one step (vs a specific base coat-clear coat system).....not literally that is't meant to be sprayed in one pass(coat).

sounds like the paint skinned over before it had a chance to set

different brands work better on some decals vs others ,I wouldn't say any is "better".they are all usefull and it doesnt hurt to have more than one brand solvaset used to be quite strong ( it was formulated in the "olden days" when decals were thick and tough) ,recently, they changed the formula from strong to tame. more in line with todays thinner and much better decals. Champs was another brand from the old days that was really strong.no longer available microscale products seem to be the most effective over the broadest range of decals. If you want a strong formula that will melt any decal into submission (too strong in some cases) try ,Daco products Decal setting-strong formula

priming really makes a difference , gives something for the paint to grab on to

test it

the testors cap will have no problem spraying alclad chrome , but it will put out a heavier coat than is ideal to get the high chrome shine. at best it will look like shiny raw aluminum

practice on hard surfaces not something that is absorbent ,, this will really come into play when your start thinning paints for models

primer is great to do if you are brush painting over it , the difference in the way way the paint flows is well worth it

Mr. Color solvent-based acrylic if I could afford to import a large batch

hobby lobby carries ambroid pro weld and testors liquid cement(in the bottle) both good glues.

I've never had a problem with it showing fingerprints or simply rubbing off. if that's happening , something is wrong

great imagination and detail ,,, this is top shelf !

very nice , are those the kit injector stacks ? .. mine in the kit were not near as clean

you can shrink images in any program , the key to corel ( a vector program) is you can "redraw" the decals..than shrink/expand/resize them instantly to whatever shape you want without any loss of resolution or pixelising....and modify the decals ...at any size.. without starting over that's why illustrator and corel are the choice of aftermarket and professional decal companys it's this redrawing process that makes aftermarket decals cost what they do, it takes time and a hefty learning curve