Kit Basher

I'm working on the AMT Payhauler 350. The dump bed is badly warped. I've attached most of the bracing to it, holding it in the proper shape while doing so. I had hoped the bracing might correct the warp. No such luck. Is there any way to permanently correct the warp? I've heard about using hot water, but I have no idea about temperature or duration. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm adding some photos to show my problem. Originally, the bed floor was humped up. By clamping the floor flat as I added the bottom braces, I was able to pretty much fix that problem, although those bottom braces are still under some stress. The result of flattening the bottom was to pull the sides in, as you can see in the photos. The side braces did not correct that problem. The side braces are not 100% glued, and with clamping and gluing might help to straighten the sides, but those braces would also be under some stress. I am hoping to remove that stress.

Have you considered sending it back to Badger? I recently sent them my old 200. It cost me $16 for return postage, and they completely rebuilt it.

Pearl Ex powder mixed with your clear is another option. It comes in many colors.

That's a masterpiece. Amazing work in every way.

Nicely done, Carl!

Here are some really poor pictures of sample boards I did of AutoAir Transparents and Candies. All are over Silver Base. The colors are much richer and deeper in real life, but maybe this will give you some idea. The first pic is Transparents, the second Candies. For a clear over Createx, just about anything will work. They recommend 2K clear, but I've used Duplicolor, Krylon, and Testors lacquer.

The Who, opened by Led Zeppelin. Columbia, MD. 1969? IIRC, The Who did songs from "Magic Bus" and "Tommy", Zep did their first album.

Just a word of warning. Lacquer thinner works most of the time, but not all the time. I used it in the square bottle of "Sublime" green, and it turned it into cottage cheese.

Thanks, Jerry!

Thanks, Barry!

Thanks, Carl!

Thanks, Steve!

Thanks, Ralph! Thanks, Cliff! Thanks, Scott! Thanks, Atin! And thanks for the comment. I understand what you're saying. It can be a trade off between getting the depth of color that you want and losing the flake. This one is on the borderline. The flake in the gold is rather fine to start with (they call it "Sparklescent" rather than metal flake), but you can still see it in the right light.

Thanks, Steve! Those are the AMT pre-printed tires. Makes it easy.

Thanks, Dave! Thanks, Chris!

Thanks, David! Those are the kit wheels, but had to be narrowed a bit to fit these tires.

Thanks, Tim!

Thanks, Bo! Thanks, Michelle! Thanks, Keith!

One more vote for that paint. It looks amazing!

Thanks, Jim. I've been at it a long time. There's always more to learn.

Thanks, Jim! Thanks, William! Thanks, Gene!

Thanks, Seth! Thanks, Larry! Thanks, JC! Thanks, David! Thanks, Mark!

Thanks, Rich! Thanks, Ray! Thanks, Snake! Thanks, Larry! Thanks, John! Thanks, Craig!

This is my first attempt at a candy paint job. Not perfect, but nothing I do ever is. This is a three part system: Autoborne yellow base, AutoAir "Championship Gold", and Candy2O "Blood Red". I added some spacers to the rear axle to get rid of the tail-dragger stance. If I do this kit again, I will add some coil springs instead. Added the "Cherry Bomb" mufflers, side pipes, and J.C. Whitney exhaust tips. I had some mesh left over from another kit, so I opened the hood vents. Suggestions for improvement always welcome.

Here's the ones I know of: West Virginia: Charles Town/ The Hobbies Shop/ 226 W. Washington St./ (681) 252-0861/ M-Sat. 10-6 Inwood/ Loco Joe's/ 357 Middleway Pike/ (304) 229-8220/ M-Th: 10-6, Fri-Sat: 10-7 Virginia: Winchester/ Hobby Hutt/ 325 W. Boscawen St./ (540) 723-4888/ Tues-Fri: 10-5:30, Sat: 10-3 Maryland: Frederick/ HobbyTown/ 454 Prospect Blvd./ (301) 694-7395/ M-F: 10-7, Sat: 10-6, Sun: 12-5 Michigan: Owosso/ Dean's Hobby Stop/ 113 W. Exchange St./ (989) 720-2137/ M: 4-7, T-F: 11:30-5, Sat.: 11:30-4