Kit Basher

That Cobra is gorgeous, Josh. What color did you use?

In one of my earlier attempts, I had a similar problem. It was not a case of the paint drying in the tip of the AB, it was actually congealing inside the brush. I had to soak the AB in lacquer thinner to get all the gunk out. That's when I found that the 4030 has to be thoroughly mixed with the paint before adding any thinner. Since you didn't use thinner, it sounds like there is a similar issue with using 4030 alone. As mentioned before, the 4030 is not a thinner, it is more of a retarder/flow enhancer. I would suggest getting some 4012 thinner and using that as a thinner, with no 4030. The 4012 is available at Hobby Lobby, at least the one I go to. That mix should spray well with no clogging. If you find that you're getting uneven covering or fisheyes etc., then maybe add some 4030 to your paint- mixed well before adding thinner! To give you a starting point, here is the recipe for Pearls/Metallics from the Createx Hard Surface Application Guide: Mix 4:1 paint to 4030 balancing clear. Thin 5-10% by volume with 4012 thinner. Allow 10+ minutes for paint to acclimate. Airbrush with 0.5 mm tip at 27-33 psi. Createx recommends spraying these paints in very light coats, with no one coat giving full coverage. Since it dries so fast, it doesn't take long to spray 4 or 5 coats, and get full coverage. I know it sounds confusing, but if you follow the directions, it works!

I've used Spaz Stix once, and it seems more durable than Alclad or Molotow. Our good friend Harry P. used to swear by it, and got incredible results with it. I've never cleared over chrome, so I'm no help there.

Yes, I've done 6 or 7 cars with the AutoAir variety. The first one was horrible, and I still have more to learn, but the last few have come out pretty good.

Hang in there Mike. Once you get used to this stuff I think you will like it.

Dave is right, the 4030 is an additive for improving flow and adhesion on hard surfaces (like plastic). Make sure you mix it thoroughly with the paint before adding any thinner, or you will get mud. (At least, that's been my experience.) For most purposes, the 4012 is the appropriate thinner.

Very nice! I have a soft spot for these because I owned a '74 SR5 back in the day.

Awesome in every way. I really like the subtle weathering underneath.

Gorgeous! Not at all what I would usually like, and I love it.

That's good to know. I've had the sealers work OK on bare plastic, but not involving masking. It would be a bummer to pull your tape off and have your whole paint job come with it.

Auto Air recommends priming with Auto Borne sealers. The advantage is that your primer can be a similar color to your paint. Since these colors are a bit transparent, that way you need less paint. Auto Borne comes in a variety of colors, as well as a set of primary colors with white and black, so you can mix any color you want. For clear, just try out your favorite clear (on a test subject), I bet it will work. For drying, they say do not use heat. I use a double action airbrush. Spray a mist coat of paint, then dry it with just air from the airbrush. The paint dries pretty fast, so you really don't have to put down the airbrush. Paint it, dry it, paint it, dry it, pretty soon you're done!

Very nicely done!

I think that one was Duplicolor "Perfect Match" clear, but almost any clear will work. BTW, I think "Wicked" is also made by Createx, but might be easier to use since it is not intended for 1:1 automotive use.

I have sprayed a fair amount of Auto Air, with pretty good results. There is a bit of a learning curve, and I suggest you download the "Hard Surface Application Guide" from their website. Some of their colors require adding a "balancing clear" before thinning, and others do not. I also use their thinner. They have some amazing colors, especially in the pearls and metallics. Good luck and have fun! This Ford was painted with one of their "Sparklescent" colors.

X2. Taklon seems to give the best finish with acrylic paints, and seem to hold up better to washing with water. Also, load your brush so you can get full coverage in one stroke, if possible. For larger surfaces use a larger brush. The more you brush it, the more brush strokes you will have. Most paints will self level if left alone.

Thanks, Dominik!

Wow! I'm glad I didn't have to pay that for mine!

That is nice. Everything is clean and sharp. Excellent craftsmanship!

Very nice. Incredible paint job!

Very nice. Incredible paint job!

OK, because inquiring minds want to know... I read thru the whole brochure. Nowhere does it say what "pla" means.

Bummer! That was a nice build of a fun kit, and a cool memory as well.

I just noticed that the tube of glue says "15 cent size". How times have changed! It looks like it could be used, but I think I'll keep it as is.

I have always built both. I am an airplane nut as well as a car nut. I don't build aircraft to the level of detail and accuracy that real aircraft modellers do, just shelf models. Then again, I don't build cars to the level that real car modellers do either. I like having an aircraft and a car going at the same time. It gives me something to do while paint/glue is drying, and I don't get confused about what parts go with what.

They were in this kit- Copyright 1968.