Tom Geiger

We need pictures. I just gotta see that!

The stream that runs through my back yard today. No snow, but it rained like mad and that's when the stream gets going! I hope you can see how fast and full it's running! Especially the first shot where the rapids are running over the rocks. On a normal day this is just a trickle.

oops! Just checked and I was thinking of the chassis under the AMT '32 roadster. It's pretty much the same as the later Vicky and Phaeton except those had the rear as separate parts.

I think that's just one of the hazards of building that we all need to watch with every kit we build. I just got a piece of glass so that I'd have a true flat surface to build up my chassis onto. Just assume it won't be 100% and make the adjustments needed to make it sit flat. There are many factors that come into if the car actually sits flat. Some of the components have some play in the way they can be installed. I had a heck of a time with the Heller Citroen panel van since the fit was a bit vague. I finally got it where I needed, then drilled holes and installed some lengths of straight pin in areas for strength. It's just good building to check the fit and trueness of every part of your build. And absolutely mandatory when you swap in other components... wheels, tires or axle parts, or scratch buld anything!

I saw Al last Saturday and got to handle the Amphicar master. It's really nice and very cool to think that this was laser cut off a computer model. The body and chassis fit together like a good kit!

Yes, I think that was the earliest of the AMT 30s cars. I believe it has the rear molded to the chassis. Not good for modifications. The body is okay and good to mount on another chassis, like an AMT or Revell '32 kit.

The usual cycle of a resin company... someone learns to cast to do a project. Friends ask for copies. They tell their friends. Next thing you know you are a manufacturer. Many people place large orders. Caster under estimates how much time and money the products really cost him, so he makes little money. Orders pile up and caster gets over whelmed, takes a lot of grief from waiting public and goes out of business. The big quandary of the resin casting business is that there is much more demand than time to make the product. They go out of business because they can't keep up with the orders. Most guys try to do this after their full time job and it just gets out of hand quickly. The few people who are good business folks have made a long term success of the business. Part of this is having a real place to do the work. I can think of a few casters that have suffered health problems because of the chemicals. I know of a few that got shut down by local officials for the chemicals in a residence. There are strict health codes regarding the handling, storage and breathing of resins. Even the scrap product needs to be disposed of as hazardous material. In short, to do this correctly and in quantity, you will have a factory with employees, rent, utilities, insurance... the full enchilada!

We think it looks great! The town code officials would be all over you though! LOL

I'd go the Tamiya USA route, making sure that the kit was sold by them in the US, since you got yours direct from Japan. If they can't help you, sell your kits on eBay and get new ones!

I've never used the Testors paper. I got the Micro-Mark at a hobby shop in New Jersey. Can also be bought from their website. www.micromark.com

First I wanna say that this model has taken "Modeling as a spectator sport" to new heights. I love clicking in on the latest installments, it just makes my day. Part of that is that you are consistently building, no long waits between reports like on my builds! Second, anyone who hasn't learned something from this thread is brain dead! The skill and imagination that's gone into creating this car is as over the top as the subject matter. I can't wait to see 'er done! Only then I'll be sad that it's come to an end... kinda like when your favorite show goes off the air!

Been there, done that. With some patience (after you've stopped seeing red) you can fix it. Just sand out the finger prints, hopefully they're just in the clear. Then reshoot. We've all done stuff like this!

I have a tutorial done by Irvin Arter on wood graining. I have it as a PDF so you (or anyone else) who wants to PM me their email addy, I'll be happy to email it to ya! My results using Irvin's technique.

I'm no big expert, but here's what I believe you will need. You said you have software. Depending on whether you are drawing your own decals or just reducing existing images to size, you may not need anything special. I generally do my work in Microsoft Word. I import the jpg I need and then reduce / enlarge the image until it's the size I need. I then will print it on paper in a few different sizes on a sheet, settle on one size and then print several of the same decal. Note that if you print a few, some may not come out well so you can pick the best one, plus if you mess up somewhere in the process you have a few to burn. For lettering I will use the many fonts in Word. I will print those the same way as the images above, on the same sheet. I use Micro-Mark clear inkjet film. It comes in 8 1/2 x 11 sheets, 5 to a pack. I paid $7.99 for the pack at a hobby shop, so it's not all that expensive. Still, I don't waste an entire sheet for a few small images. I'll print the images I need onto a sheet of regular printer paper. Then I carefully cut a part of the decal sheet that will cover the image area and tape it over the images, only on the top edge. Then run the sheet back through the printer, and your decals should print just fine. The extra thickness shouldn't matter. Then you will need to coat the decals. I generally will let the ink jet ink dry over night. If you put one of those directly in water to use, the ink would come right off the sheet. You will need to coat the decals. Marty recommended the Testors Decal Bonder Spray, which comes in the same small cans as Testors regular colors. I believe it's just a clear lacquer that's not too hot, so it doesn't distort the decals. Do a very light coat, let it dry and maybe a light coat or two more. If the ink runs at all, you've put on too heavy a coat of fixative. Once that's dry, try one of your decals (why we printed many). If it stays stable (as in the ink doesn't run) you are good to put it on your model. I have no experience with decal solutions, others may comment. Some guys use other clear paints like Krylon over their decals. I just took Marty's advise and it worked fine. I know Duplicolor clear is too hot and the decal ink will run. Been there, done that! Note that your ink jet printer won't print white, gold or silver. And it prints pretty thin, almost opaque onto the decal, so you'll have to keep in mind to put decals onto light colored surfaces. I will set up paint schemes on my models so that I'm doing so. Good luck!

Ah, but this one is an original annual kit done back in 1971. The kit available now is a recent AMT tool. Yes, the new tool has more detail etc, but purists will still want the original! I wouldn't chuck it, at the least I'd give it to someone who would want it for what it is.

I never thought I'd be so happy to find basic supplies! I moved out here to PA and the local hobby shops don't have much of anything. In fact I got rock hard green putty at the closest one. Shows you how much they cater to modelers. So I was back in NJ Saturday for my club meeting and hit Avenel Hobbies. It was so nice to ask where the Metalizers were and the person behind the counter didn't give me a stupid look! I got the three Metalizers I was out of, Stainless Steel, Magnesium and Aluminum Plate. I regularly use all 5 tones to give interest to model undersides and engine bays. I also was all out of Bare Metal Foil! Man, I almost couldn't build without all this stuff. And while I was there I bought a new supply of Micromark decal paper for the inkjet. I'm down to using partial sheets for small decals. The only thing they didn't have was Alclad spray can. I think I can get that from a buddy this Friday. And it's brandy new NNL East swag! The pens came in the mail this week, so I shared them with my fellow club members at Saturday's meeting. This was our annual work session where we bag up the license plates. 20 guys working an hour sure beats one guy working 20 hours! Thanks guys! And of course once the work was done we ordered some food!

A buddy-o-mine once had a dark blue '73 Caprice that had that same green interior. Lord knows how GM let someone order that combo!

The '41 is perfect! And I have a can of Purplelicious I'm waiting to use on something!

Lookin' great so far! The good part is that you don't have to fine finish the roof with the platform on it. You'll have your hands full getting the sides flattened out. Keep on going, we're watching!

Actually their day of reckoning is coming! My bro-in-law works at a sorting center scheduled to be closed. He doesn't know if he'll be relocated or laid off. And he's been there better than 25 years. He has been on third shift because as they have cut back due to attrition and layoffs over the years, he is low man in seniority. He has stayed there because he thinks his chances are better there, than to be low man at a local post office. The local post offices will be cutting back once the Saturday delivery is nixed. I think we can do with 5 day mail delivery.

Gotta finish it and bring it to NNL East John! Seriously, we have special gifts that only those who display models will get this year!

Richard also wrecked out his 1960 Valiant in the Compact Class races. Lee Petty's last official win was in the 1961 Compact Class Race, driving a 1960 Valiant hyperpack

Japan is known for having limited space. I guess you have to stack those "I'm gonna restore it someday" cars!

Here in Exton, PA I have a 200 foot driveway. Our large mail box is at the curb, but every time I get a package, the carrier walks all the way up to my front door and rings the bell. That's the way it needs to be done!

Lookin' great! I'm happy you had us all aboard for the project. I feel sorry for the guys on the board who saw the subject title and didn't click on it since it's not a friggin muscle car!