Tom Geiger

I use a lot of Zap-a-gap as my regular model glue. It is expensive in hobby shops. I found out that Michaels stocks it, and it's a few dollars cheaper. Then I used the 50% off coupon and it was about $3. and for fuel filters, I bought a pack of Radio Shack diodes about 20 years ago... still have some. About $5 for a life time supply!

I once had Wesleys left in an open container gel up like that over time. But yours went much quicker in the dry air. I'd just add water to it until it becomes liquid again

Guaranteed used cars! We guarantee they're used and we guarantee they're cars!

Here's one I did with red exhaust tips and it came out well. I don't know how black will look, maybe try the blue you used on the body as a tie in?

That is actually a promotional piece for the movie. The kit inside is just a Camaro or something. I love that movie!

You are my hero! Can't wait! What years are you planning? That body is good for everything 1963-66 including Darts.

I own 3 pieces not mentioned so far, these were the names of the kits on the boxes: #862 '66 Falcon Ranchero (comes with camper top) #865 '69/70 Falcon #874 '61 Falcon Panel (nicer than Flintstone one, comes with rear interior, hood and clear red tail lights) I just touched all three in case photos are needed.

Yes! One of my Bucket List items is to import an Australian Valiant VC (1966) ute to the USA! I will need to check out the resin Barracuda wagon. I like the idea of turning it into a Valiant wagon!

Very nice! I like the wagon conversion.

Back when I was in Aruba in 1991, I found Scale Auto Enthusiast magazine on the rack in a drug store. It got me wondering if there were modelers there or if the magazine was for tourists.

Cool Cool! Looks like you recovered your skills just fine! And fifteen years? I thought I felt the Earth shake a little bit last night!

Here's a fun little kit. It was released under two different names. It is close enuf to 1/25 to fit into my collection. The second picture is the only one I have available online of the box, but the car in front is my long in progress vehicle, using the Hogan's Jeep chassis.

Engine looks great Rich! Especially the brackets anchoring the accessories in place. I look forward to watching the build take shape!

I don't mind because I have a small Exacto brand battery power drill. I've had it over 20 years and haven't seen another one for years.

Wow! Bringing back an ancient thread! I own two air brushes but exclusively use rattle cans. I like Duplicolor automotive paints, which I use for most everything. I like to spray vs brush, so I will mount up even the smallest parts to spray them. I will also tape things off etc, to get the sprayed even finish. I also like a couple of Testors products. I use their Dullcote extensively since I do a lot of weathering. I also like the Metalizer line of metal finishes. I use Duplicolor primers for everything. I will try a variety of flat greys and flat blacks as even the cheap brands give different tones when I need to distinguish chassis or interior parts etc. I've bought a few Tamiya paints but don't have a lot of experience with them at this point.

Dave, NNL stands for National Nameless Luminaries. It's an old story. Going back over 30 years ago, Mark Gustavson envisioned holding a world championship of car modeling out in Salt Lake City. He promoted this as the place where all the big dogs would go to compete. Only for his first show, nobody came. Just one person, Andy Martin showed up. Mark was upset and penned an article in his Putty Thrower column in Scale Auto. He mentioned that these 'national luminaries who would remain nameless', hadn't responded. Around the same time, a group of adult modelers would get together the evening before the Toledo Toy Show at someone's house just for an evening of barbecue, and model car camaraderie. Model cars were displayed on doors sitting on saw horses just so everyone could share. This group commented on Mark's article and decided to share their Friday evening get together with more modelers. In jest, they called it the NNL, for Nameless National Luminaries, as a tongue in cheek jab at Mark. They felt that the contest thing had gone too far in the way of competition, so they envisioned an event without awards, just models and friends. This the NNL Nationals in Toledo was born. This show has been going over 30 years. Other modelers and clubs enjoyed the casual format and decided to duplicate the concept. The first was NNL East in New Jersey. Tri-State Scale Model Car Club president, the late John Slivoski, had attended the Toledo meets and asked for permission to hold a similar meet in NJ. They agreed as long as he stayed true to the concept. This show is in it's 27th year. While the original group wanted no awards at all, they relented to others who wanted a few simple awards, all people's choice. So you would have a Best in Show and Best Theme awards. A junior award was also created to encourage youth. Across the country, and around the world, the format was adapted by other clubs. Some stayed true to the format and others took it off their own direction. It's important to note that there is no NNL organization that is responsible for all the shows. NNL has become a name that describes the format. The individual shows are run by local organizations.

I hadn't updated the board on this project in two months, so here's where we've gone since the last installment: The chassis is complete. The Plymouth flathead 6 is in place. The exhaust has been routed. I fit my exhaust like you would on a 1:1. I cut all the pieces apart and then pin it all together I leave the pins loose while I bend and twist the assembly until I'm happy. Then I glue them much like you would clamp it all tight. Note the pin from the chassis. I pin everything! This early January shot shows the chassis up on wheels and the single exhaust peaking out just as I imagined it would. The exhaust tip is something I picked up at a doll house store eons ago when I was working on an ice cream truck and I wanted to make bells. At this point I thought I'd leave the body in red primer as I got used to looking at it this way. I had painted the roof canvas but wasn't all that happy with the way it looked. I was trying not to do dead black, so I tried a grey. It looked like duct tape in person. Also around this time someone pointed out that the kit body's roof was much too square. So I dumped it in the pond. I reshaped the roof and redid the entire scheme after this photo. Here's the body after I sanded the roof. I used the new Revell '32 sedan as a guide to the shape. I hope I got it, or at least it's better than it was. Fresh primer with snow on the ground. Paper test of the tire carrier. The design is from an old 1920s postcard I own and thought it would be cool to use on a model someday. Last week I decided to take the car back to my original intent... RED. I had originally called it Project Red Rum. And I knew it needed to be weathered up, so I added grey primer over the red primer, then shot the dark red gloss, all Duplicolor paint. A bit of wet sanding, a sprinkling of rust and some strategic spraying of both dullcote and gloss and here we are. I did shoot the roof black this time around and it looks fine. And here we were last evening. I had mounted the tail lights and wanted to see how they looked in photos. I believe they are large truck roof lights. I found them in a huge bag of parts I bought at a show a while back. The chrome on them was bad, which worked perfect for my needs. The lenses are custom units from the AMT '57 Ford kit. I have them pinned in place, then glued. I had also glued the headliner in place and the front windshield frame. I still have to add glass, sun visors, mirrors and the whole grill / radiator unit up front. There is also a spare tire to mount on the back. The project is at the point where you can only glue one piece on at a time, then walk away for that to dry. It will be finished for my club meeting in two weeks. Comments, cheers and jeers are welcome!

Craig- I just saw a guy in the swap section looking to trade off a bench seat for a set of buckets and console. I'll bet you guys can make a deal!

Irvin Arter in the Pittsburgh PA area has a couple of Elkies. He can probably give you anything you need.

Model cars are better than real cars because you can forget about them for a couple of years and they're in the same shape as when you last looked at them! Real cars would be all rusted up!

Since we were talking about Michaels coupons in this thread, here is a link to this week's 50% off one item coupon http://weeklyad.michaels.com/coupons/?storeId=4806&promotionCode=Michaels-130224

and to add one thing... if you have a question ASK! Everyone on the board is approachable and more than happy to help. If you need a guide to route some plumbing, or an explanation of something, someone will be there for you. I tried getting back to the hobby as an adult in my 20s, going it solo since I didn't know anyone else into models at the time. My results were no better than those from when I was 15. I got discouraged and never finished the model. In my 30s I found a model car club and decided to try again. My results were much better because I had people to coach me and teach me techniques. Many of these things aren't all that complicated or require a lot of talent, it's just that I hadn't figured them out on my own. This was back before the Internet so I was lucky to find a club local to me. Still, there was a month gap between each meeting and the opportunity to ask questions and get feedback. Today, it's much better. You can communicate with folks from around the world every day!

The weird thing is that GM doesn't have one licensing group with an even policy for all their brands. It seems that GMC is more protective of it's trademarks than Chevrolet. Note that GMC made them stop making the parts, but they still produce Chevys!

I haven't done any trades on the board, mainly because I haven't needed anything. I've been at the hobby a long time, so I have most everything that is common. I'd be more looking for things I'd rather see first. Postage has gotten expensive as the rates keep going up. I remember when Priority Mail was $3.95 for up to 2 pounds! I'm more like if a friend needs a part I have, I just send it to them! Especially if it's something they need to get a model done.

Last I looked, Floquil also had a Polly S paint line that had the very same colors, but in acrylic. I have the weathering sets, both Floquil and Polly S.