Fuel Coupe

I love the friction shocks and the Dog house. Is that METAL I see

Next update: I decided to build a fuel pump and Frankenstein Cirillo Mag. Heres a few pics Heres a pic with the mag mocked up along with a scratch built manifold. The wheel pictured is from comp resin and is a dead ringer for the wheels on the Red Stamp. Comments of course are welcomed.. I know this aint everyones cup of tea but its a true piece of drag racing history and by far one of the prettiest cars John Shoemaker ever welded up...

Thanks Wayne, And everyone else I have no doubt that with your skills you would be able to do this with no problem.

John you do some really great work and get it done quickly. Who is printing your decals. Send it to me in a PM if you dont want to post it here...

I feel your pain Bob. Push yourself with each build and try something new every time. Your fuel lines blow my attempts out of the water. Gotta step my game up.....

I love the color choice

I love your attention to detail. Very clean work...

Thanks Bernard, I enjoy metal work and really enjoy building axles....

and heres some pics of the finished axle. You can either polish it up and paint it or take it to a jeweler and have them nickle plate it or you can use a home plater like the one micro mark sells. I know its probably easier to build out of plastic but wheres the fun in that Thanks for looking guys...

Heres a little update on the front suspension. I usually build them out of brass so I thought I would post this one up with a bit of detail... First I mark up the 1/16 brass tube in order to make the bends. I try to follow the flow of an axle I have on hand to get the bends right. I then cut the axle loose from the rest of the tubing. I then fishmouth the ends and cut the spindle mounts generally 6mm long. Its a good idea to get the joints tight fitted for a good bond heres what I use to solder the joints. the torch gives you better control on your heat. Make sure the joints are SUPER CLEAN!!!! A little trick I use is to lay a small piece of solder in the joint and flash the torch by while holding the two pices together and let that little bit of solder flow into the joint. this keeps the heat down especially when some points are only 4mm apart. Heat control is the name of the game. the trick is to add a little heat and move the torch away and then put your solder in the joint and when its hot enough it will flow. heres the axle with the ends in place. next comes the torsion mounts.I notch the axle in the desired place where the mounts and bat wings need to go. I use a cut off wheel in my dremel. I use plain old friskars orange handle scissers to cut the general shape Im after the finish them up with a sanding stick. drill what ever holes are needed and solder them in place. Next come the bat wings. these are generally triangle shaped and go in the same way the mounts go.. friskars scissors and sanding sticks get the shape you'll want.. Drill any holes you need before mounting the wings as they'll be harder to drill once installed

I usually strip sparkplug wire to make the fuel lines but that craft wire looks great. Hobby Lobby? what dept. I was big into BMX back in the 80's and still have my '81 santa ana GT and ride a 24 GT cruiser. While moving my Nomad we found a stash of bike parts from my racing days. Never grow up Bob...

LOVE IT

your doing a great job on this one Jim...

I LOVE IT. were'd those rear shoes come from

Good tattoos arent cheap and cheap tattoos arent good. Keep that in mind and you'll be fine. Go to a reputable shop and not at somebodies kitchen table. Scratchers arent looked highly upon by reputable shops. Its hard to tell on your buddys arm as its still healing. Im Diabetic and have been for the last 13 years. My left arm is sleeved and my right is almost done. Never had an infection nor any other problems. Gill Montie of Tattoomania did my left arm and we sat down before we ever started to discuss my diabetes and he was extremely professional and did a great job. I didn't get my 1st tattoo until I was well into my 30's and dont regret any of it and I work for the largest oil corporation in the world... Heres one done by My new Artist Mundo Trevino heres an older in progress on my left wrist

Thanks guys. I really appreciate the compliments. Yes, Its a 392. I need to locate a good "stock" cast iron block to work with....

Go Get'em Bob. This ones gonna be great!!!

While waiting on parts and perfecting some weathering technics I decided to try and build the C&T Automotive dragster. There will be alot of detail and scratch building in this car so it may be a bit drawn out. I decided to scratch build a chassis for the car as the Ivo kit I based it on was too long and I didnt like the flat sided chassis. I did however use the front end mount and the drivers compartment. The Ivo car was over 180" and the "Red Stamp" car was 130. So I pulled 50 scale inches out of the car and This what I came up with Before After I also had to remove some of the tail extension as the Ivo cars tail was too long the real car

X2

Turned out really nice Jim. The wheels are great!!!!

Thanks Russ and everyone else here. This really a low tech build that I have wanted to do for years and have finally decided to jump in and do...

Great subject and a beautiful model. Thanks for the dash tutorial.

Jim I know it sounds crazy but. The best finish with alclad is when you shoot it over enamel. I use Krylon indoor/outdoor enamel. Just make sure you spray it so you get a slick shiney surface. then spray the alclad as directed. Hope this helps..

Thanks guys. I'll contact Walt now. THANKS!!!!!

Here's a small update. I got the motor installed and the gearbox modified and in. I made a strengthening support for the firewall where the steering shaft goes through. I also ran the starter wires and alternator wiring. All boring stuff really but feel free to comment or ask questions...