truckabilly

Very nice 1970´s rig.

Thank you all. I carry on with a pair of exhausts or smoke stacks if you will. They are made of aluminium tubes K&S, Evergreen stock and CTM PE parts. They are supposed to go to a 1-24 scale model but I think it is not that much difference. Some parts like the brackets and rain caps are still missing. The heat exchanger needed a tailpipe. I made mine out of aluminium sheet. It is going to fall off at least ten times by the time the model is finished, I am afraid The steering box and assist rod is another story as I do not know how and where the assist rod is attached to the chassis. I made this strange looking pillar to hold it. Maybe it hangs too low but I shortened the pitman arm three times already. And one more detail. I do not know what it is but it is there. As always, photos of the real thing were kindly taken by Jeff Lakaszcyck of Kennedy Space Center.

Speaking of paint... I am thinking of what colour I should use for the chassis. Photographed under bright sun it appears to be sort of greyish blue to me. Maybe something similar to what the marine war planes wear. Any tips or ideas? I´d like to hear them.

Well..., I got stuck in a fenders problem. I made a mistake in my very first step when I used the cross members part from the Revell kit. I did not think the cross members span would be of any importance untill I wanted to attach the rear fenders. Their holders should match the position of the cross members but it did not work on my model. I did not want to give up this feature so I cut one of the cross members out of the frame, turned it around to swap LH / RH sides and glued it back again. This moved the cross member closer to rear axles and the fenders now fit a lot better. I hope the picture explains it better. The exhaust system consists of solid and flexible parts and shutters that route the fumes to the heat exchanger. The best way to replicate the flexible tubing is using a straw. But I could not find a straw thin enough for 1-25 scale. So, I wrapped a copper wire around a piece of cable instead. It is not as good as a straw would be but I hope it does not look that bad. That´s the latest up date and I keep on working.

Excellent work.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year everyone. Thanks for your wonderful company throughout the whole year. Let the next one is just as good or even better.

Thanks for your replies, gentlemen. Some of you say hydro, the others say air. This was photographed by Jeff Lakaszcyck and it is one of the NASA Peterbilts 351 delivered in 1967. Sadly, their era comes to the end. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/106276-nasa-pete-125/

One of the nicest dashes I have ever seen. That is real beauty.

Can somebody explain to me how this kind of power steering work? I mean, what other parts do I need to replicate a complete system? I can see two hoses running out of the hydraulic rod. Where do they go? Is it a power steering pump and a reservoir like the newer systems have? Thanks for any help.

Never seen the movie but that is very well executed "movie hero". I like that boom very much, just as the features. Nice job.

Wonderful! I like it very much.

Unusual, at least for me. But like the others, I like it. Very nice.

Awesome. Keep it coming.

This topic is very interesting to me. I always wondered if there is a rule by which this or that kind a wheel is chosen for this or that kind of truck. From what you guys have written I assume that it depends on the owners preferences for the most part, is that right? I thought that application could have some influence on the choice too. Steve said that six spoke wheels are used for the heavier weight ratings and heavier duty vocational applications. I wonder if for example two-hole discs are more suitable for some applications or if there is no difference at all as far as the use is concerned. What do you guys think?

Wow, I always wanted to have a twin turbo CAT like that. Is it available somewhere or have you made it yourself? How? Where shoud I start? Yours is looking pretty good.

They look very good side by side.

Wow, even better!

That is interesting technique. Never heard of that before. Would it work in 1-25 and 1-24 scales too?

Thank you guys, I am glad you like it. I promised you fenders, here they are. Using 0,8 mm sheet I cut out patterns of stepboard fenders, triangle inserts and fuel tank brackets. The hood lower boards are glued to the grill and added to the frame. The rear fenders are made of the same material. I was inspired by someone here on the forum who made custom fenders. I just made ordinary fenders that way. I cut out four identical sides and two stripes. I glued the stripes on top of the side edges and added round rod inside. Then I cut the sides to shape and rounded corners. I hope that pictures will explain it better than words. Up next: problems.

Looking great! My respect to your skills.

Even though the front axle is not attached yet, here is an overall look on the chassis with engine. The 1100 series cab taken from RoG kit is is slightly modified for butterfly hood. I want to the hood to be functional, so I made the basic parts and did a little bit of test fitting. I did not work very well lengthwise. I had to extend the frame a little. Here is where I cut it. Unfortunatelly, I have no photo of the glued-back-together frame but you will see it next time with fenders in place.

Awesome conversion. It´s a pleasure to watch something like this.

Thank you Tim. My logger build is here. Hope it works:

Wonderful! What else to say?

Mine is this one made by a local producer 3D Detail. I bought it years ago on a model show and I don´t remember the price. It wasn´t cheap, that´s true. The milimeter range is in the photo.