Psychographic

Maybe try Bob's Paint, he is or was a member here, but I'm not sure what his name on this site is.

This was pretty hard as lighting and monitor settings can change, but here is my suggestions. I would have never guessed this combo in a million years. I held the color chart at many angles to get the best idea of the true color as it changes quite a bit, there were many that looked very close at first glance, Once you changed the angle many took on too much of a red hue. The closest combos are UK-19 Scarlet and UK-20 Persimmon over either BC-09 Planet Green or BC-10 Pavo Purple.Based on my monitor and lighting I would go with Scarlet over Planet Green . I hope this helps. I tried to take pics of the color chart, but my camera is not sophisticated enough to get accurate pics of the chart.

I think your problem is the red basecoat, it's probably to dark. Try mixing candy red and rootbeer over a silver or gold basecoat. This way you can slowly build up the color slowly until it's dark enough. You also might want to try brandywine/rootbeer over silver. If you give me some time, I'll dig out my old HOK color chart and see what I can come up for you.

I totally misunderstood you. I thought you meant the 1 and the 7 on the same sheet were different. I didn't think you meant the numbers from one sheet were different from the other decal sheet. I must have looked at that for about 10 minutes trying to figure out how you knew the 1 and the 7 were different fonts. I've been a sign painter for most of my life and thought I was losing it and should be looking for a different profession! Now it makes perfect sense.

Why don't you think they are the same letterstyle?

Going back to the static problem, a simple way to remove it is to wet a paper towel and wring the water out of it until it is barely damp. Blot the part with the towel, if you wrung it out properly the moisture transferred to your part will evaporate almost immediately. DO NOT rub the towel over the surface, just blot it. Use the hottest water you can to speed the evaporation process. I learned this trick while pinstriping fiberglass parts. When you wipe them down with a wax and grease remover you put an enormous amount of static into them, As the brush gets close to the parts you can watch the bristles fan out on the end of the brush. The line you lay down will look like a fuzzy caterpillar, if you slowly pull the brush from the surface you will see microdops of paint forming on the surface as they jump from the brush to the part. I have pulled a brush as much as 3 feet from the surface and the paint will still jump from it to the part.

It's just a matter of taste. I think you could extend the front and leave the back stock. The extended rear really kills it for me. I think the long hood of and short rear look of the 35 Mercedes looks good. The shapes of the two are very similar. I think extending the front fenders on the 32 might help also. They seem to hang out a bit further than the Ford, also I think filling them in behind the wheels helps a lot.

You asked, so I'll give you my $.02. IMO, extending the front and rear is not an improvement in any way, the chop even makes it worse and I do like chopped 32's. The 32 Ford's overall shape and lines were perfect right out of the factory, even now in 2017 the factory design looks great. As I've said numerous time, if we all had the same tastes, the world would be a boring place.

Maybe because it's very cool looking.

I see Bill's trailer and raise him a Dune Buggy, Boat, Sports Car, and a Street Rod. I've also got about 3 other Silhouette projects, not including trailers of which I have two in the works. The Silhoutte is one of my favorite show cars of all time and definitely my favorite model of all time.

If you use an airbrush, try adding cornstarch or talcum powder to the paint.

In no way did I feel singled out. I'm sure you're man enough to do so if you felt the need. Now I'm only saying this as a friend, maybe it's your passion for cars, both 1:1 and models. You have a habit of coming of kind of crude (for lack of a better word) when you see something you don't agree with. The gasser thing is a perfect example, We all know by now that you hate seeing the term used for a build that doesn't fit the actual rules for one. But let's be honest, we are building models, not real race cars that need to follow the rues to be legal and fair to other competitors. After all it's just a name for a class of car. I've never seen you complain that a Lowrider wasn't low enough. Again I. think it's the passion you have. Again a partial quote but it is all that is needed to make my point. "I guess it's just symptomatic of the times we live in that everyone is looking for something to get butthurt about, all the time, everywhere." Seeing as you are replying to me and Steve, I have to assume that you are talking about us. After all we are the only two to say we found your post a bit offensive. Was I butthurt? I think it takes a lot more than that to really bother me. It's just I get tired of seeing people talked down to because of their ideas of what makes them happy as a modeler. If we all built the same things, this forum would be pretty boring. This quote was a perfect example of talking down to someone. I think Steve said it better than me, it's not what you say, but how you say it. Now as far as my builds being able to be realistic, you need to look at my Jeep build again, font suspension arms at 90 degree angles where they mount, turbo's that are mounted vertically, an automatic transaxle on a solid rear that bounces up and down with the suspension. In the end it's all good on this side. This is a partial Quote so don't kill me for it. "seem to expect overflowing praise for mediocre results" You are assuming what other peoples expectations are, and possibly their skill levels.

I consider the people of this forum family. So when some new member who hasn't ventured outside of a single thread, which by the way, is nothing short of self promotion tells my family to "leave", you can darn well expect me to go off on them.

You came on to a site of model builders asking for help and admitting you have no interest in models, but are willing to make money from our (in many cases years) of knowledge. Then when you get called out on it, you cop an attitude and tell people to leave. Who the @#%& do you think you are? You're acting like a troll, it's time for you to leave. Unless you are too stupid to figure it out, you are NOT welcome here.

Again, how about you move on. It's quite apparent you've pissed people off with your crappy attitude. There are plenty of other model forums you can go to.

So basically you want to make money using us for your knowledge. To me that means we are doing your work for free so you can profit from it. We've put the work into learning how to build decent looking models and you have not done one thing other than trying to suck on our teats. How about YOU LEAVE!

Bill, As I feel like I fall into this category more than someone who builds for accuracy, I find this a bit insulting. I have very little invested in tools, and rarely build things that would work in the real world. I find my builds are more art than function. I have as much fun building what I do, as anyone else, although I do get aggravated with my builds quite often, but that's probably just my nature. I don't understand the constant negativity to people who just want to build what pleases them because their model would never work as a 1:1.

2017 is not starting off so well. http://bangshift.com/general-news/hot-rodding-icon-pete-chapouris-has-died/

Thanks for the tip on Micro surfacing. I lost one pad from my kit I bought from Micro Mark and didn't feel like having to buy the whole kit to replace it. I make my own sanding sticks using rolls of adhesive backed sand paper and craft sticks. I know rolls of sandpaper can be expensive, but cheap off brand rolls can be found at flea markets.

It's in chapter 7, on page 216, of the Spy Handbook. "No spy weapons, electronic surveillance, or cloaking devices are to be outfitted on beige Camrys".

Well everyone, I have to apologize for not looking through all of the instructions. I bought an engine and body from ebay and don't have the instructions. It seems there is a turbo exhaust outlet on this engine, it's on the last page of the instructions. So my best guess is there is some type of diverter valve to bypass the turbos. I can't think of a reason why other than "Spy Stuff".

Thanks for the information. Beautiful job on polishing that paint, boy does that have a nice reflection.

Bob, what's your method for mixing the clear resin? I bought some the same resin to make head and taillights, mixed it as instructed, and my parts never hardened all the way. I called the manufacturer and was told I need to mix at least 2oz. to get the mix close enough, anything less and there would be a good chance of it not curing properly. I told them it would be nice if it said that on the can. I'm going to pick up some syringes from the drug store before I try it again.

What did you use for a wash on the engine? I have yet to find a paint or method on silver that looks as good as yours does.

Yes, along with shortening the back, filling the tops of the doors, reshaping the trailing edges of the roof, reshaping the nose, removing the rear plate box, and filling the turbo exhaust outlets and sinking the top of that area to add some styling to it.