Psychographic

The tub is not too narrow, you need to build the door sills and jambs to reach it. You will also need to build the door edges also. Look at a real car and you will see what I mean.

What good is a kit that was made to be assembled and enjoyed if it sits in a box? It's up to you and only you what you do with it.

I'm not 100% sure mine is a Flinstone, but i'm pretty sure it is. Width without fenders 2-9/16", with fenders a hair over 3-3/4" Length without grill and bumper, 3-1/16" Height 3"

Are you judging the finished model, or the modelers ability? Model "A" is just about flawless, but all parts are purchased, and model "B" is a little less flawless, but a lot of the parts are scratchbuilt. If you are judging just the finished model, "A" should win, if you are judging on the work it took to produce, then model "B" should win. Of course this is just my opinion.

That is what I said in the original post.

I use flexible straws for filling molds on certain resin projects. One day I decided to carefully cut the straw after the resin hardened, it made a fairly nice looking duct.

I got a quick reply from the vendor with the dimensions. Now for the hard part, waiting for them to arrive.

Thanks for replying. I ordered a set from ebay, I've asked them about the dimensions on there in the past and they never replied. Maybe now that I've actually ordered them they will reply.

Have either of you ordered the deep Rotoform HUR wheels and tires? I'm curious what the dimensions of them are.

Another update. My order arrived today, so the shipping was fast once it leaves their hands. I'm going to give them the benefit of the doubt on the time it took to get it out the door. I would use them again if needed. I think an inquiry to items being in stock might help some of you who are ordering resin kits.

A quick update as I don't want to bash a vendor without reason. The following morning USPS is showing that they have the package and it is on it's way. So RFH did ship pretty much immediately after the label was made. I just wonder if it would have shipped had I not contacted them. I guess I'll never know and for now I will give them the benefit of the doubt.

Thank you so much for sharing this with us. I haven't had the time to look at all the links and read the information, but I will as I really would like to be able to design my own parts.

I placed an order with RFH recently for some tape. The site clearly states they ship in 3 to 5 days. After 10 days with no sign of delivery, I emailed them to see if my order shipped. I got a message from paypal later that night (at 10;55pm)stating it was just shipped. Of course that was the usual BS because it had not shipped, it was just the notification that a label was created. I'm wondering if it was coincidence that they shipped right after I emailed, or if it was my inquiry that made them ship my order. So right now I don't have positive or negative thoughts on RFH, other than if you state it will be 3-5 days, it should leave their premises at 3-5 days, not 10. I''l update when I see they actually have shipped my order.

That really is a beautiful. Do you have any pics of the engine in it?

The type of tape I use depends on what I'm masking. Smooth surfaces such as a body, I would do the edge with a "plastic/vinyl" style tape automotive tapes followed with a "crepe" tape to fill in the rest of the area. Covering large areas such as doing a two tone on a body I would mask with a vinyl tape cover the rest with Glad Press and Seal kitchen wrap, then cover the edges with crepe tape overlapping the vinyl tape and Press and Seal. A note on using the vinyl style tapes, don't stretch them over dips and valleys and then push them down, they have a memory to them and will want to lift back up (usually at the worst time). For surfaces that are rough or irregular such as a chassis plate, suspension parts, or an engine, I find crepe paper to be far superior to to adhere to the surface. Again, Press and Seal is great for covering the rest of the area. I avoid any household masking tape as it is low tack and made primarily for use over latex. Solvents can penetrate the tape and attack the adhesive and leave it stuck on your part after removal, or worse soften the color you are masking and cause damage. It's also quite easy for solvent style paints to creep under the edge due to the low tack. When you paint over tape capillary action occurs, for that reason, the thinner the tape is, the less of an edge you will have when you remove it. The thinnest tape I found is called "The Edge by Finesse. The only problem with this tape for use on models, it won't make a tight bend. I've used this tape for about 30 years and find it to be one of the best out there, https://www.finessepinstriping.com/edge/ One last thing, ALWAYS burnish the tape down after you have it set where you want it and again just before you start spraying. If you have any questions, feel free to ask.

What do you consider big flake? Regular flake for a real car or microflake? As for a flake gun, I think they are stupid myself. It's added steps with no purpose. Just mix the flake in your clear, spray, clear, and sand smooth. Be prepared to use a lot of clear to allow yourself to sand it smooth. If you use lacquer you have to take into account that the clear is going to shrink for months after you spray it. I have a project i did in silver flake last year, and gave it about a month before sanding it. It was smooth as glass, now it's a bit rough after a year of drying. I would strongly suggest after you apply the flake to finish clearing it with urethane.

I took a chance and ordered some. I look forward to seeing what you think of it.

I have some L-O-T coming, it's just taking it's sweet time getting here. Have you used it Jim? Do you know if you can make a tight radius with it?

Thanks for the info, but I want really thin tape, even 2mm is way to wide. I'm really interested in the .4 tape. I know i could always cut my own, but I have no interest in cutting tape down if I can buy it. I've got some 1mm Line O Tape on order but it must be coming on the back of a turtle being led by a snail. I've been putting off a project until I can find some tape to fit my needs.

Have you used this tape before? If so can you tell me if it bends easily to make a tight radius? Is it a vinyl tape?

From what I read it all came down to money. There was much more profit in leasing to Copart for storage than to keep the strip running. Less insurance costs, no more dealing with the EPA, no track maintenance, etc.. If you read any forums, it sounds like the Napp boys weren't too accommodating to the racers either. I'm sure the people who moved in to the neighborhood in the last 20 or so years and complained about noise and traffic didn't help.

After many years of rumors of it closing, it appears Raceway Park in Englishtown NJ is shutting down the dragstrip. Supposedly they are leasing out to an auto auction for car storage. I wonder where the Summernationals will be held?

Sad news. Not many of the real men of racing left. RIP Mr. Gurney.

About the only car I would like to see made into a styrene kit that would possibly be popular enough to sell well would be a Cheetah.

It's about time someone made one of these! I love it, but to me the corners look too sharp and the front looks too flat. Both are easy fixes. Other than that it's a beautiful casting.