Psychographic

1K? wouldn't that be enamel or lacquer? You will have to thin the Duplicolor a bit to shoot it through an airbrush, it's meant for full size spray guns. Ive also found it takes forever to cure And for the record, I'm actually a Butter Pecan kinda guy.

Think about how much of that $7 can of clear doesn't go on the model? Like I said, you have very little control with a spray can. Now considering waste (what just goes into the air, not the surface you are painting), I can guarantee you the urethane through an airbrush is cheaper. You do understand that the 160 was for the hobby paint, not the urethane, right? So now the question is,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Does that make me chocolate or vanilla?

And pay through the nose for it. Also you have basically no control of the paint with a rattle can. The idea that it's sooooo much work to clean an airbrush cracks me up. I can clean any of my airbrushes in about 2 minutes with minimal work.

There really is no more effort to mix urethane clear than enamel or lacquer. Urethane- mix clear with hardener/activator Lacquer- mix clear with thinner Enamel- mix clear with reducer I don't see any more work with any of them. Syrup,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, really? Do these look like syrup? The benefit of the urethane, it won't yellow and it cures faster than lacquer or enamel. I also think it's cheaper to use. I can buy a quart of house brand urethane from my local supply house for about $40. A 1 1/4 ounce of lacquer from the LHS $4, if my math is correct, that puts the hobby lacquer at about $160 a quart. The only lacquer clear for automotive use I can find locally is a Qt. of pre-thinned Duplicolor at about $25. I honestly don't like it, after a few days you can push your fingernail into it and leave a mark. To me that means it's not ready to be sanded and polished. With the urethane, I can sand and buff the next day. If your really in a hurry, there are urethanes tha can be sanded and polished in 90 minutes. As for the health issues, you should be protecting your self no matter what you spray.

http://jalopnik.com/the-touching-story-behind-that-horrifying-monster-energ-489939949

First off, there is not enough info on the question at hand. Are you modeling a car before it hits the track for the season or after it has started? Is it a drag car, a road racer, a dirt or asphalt car? I've lettered hundreds of race cars back in the day. I would say at least 99% of them had at least a decent gloss to them. Most of these were dirt modifieds and street stocks that were shiny when I lettered them. By the end of the season they might not have been so shiny. I honestly think there is no correct answer to the question without more information.

You mean like this?

The Daytona Transport comes with a chrome 6.

I started on the ramps for the trike. Just a little sanding and paint and they will be done. I used ribbed sheet for the rear tires as they need some traction. The ramp for the front tire is .030 and the edges of all three are finished with .040 x .060 square stock.

I've got color and clear on the trailer. This color shows every flaw and seems to magnify it to a power of 10. I might have to redo the back door as I'm not totally happy with it. After the base was dry, I masked the outside and cleared the inside. Then I masked the inside and sprayed the outside. I did get a small smudge on the back while removing the tape. I pulled the tape before it tacked up too much so the edge will lay down and disappear. It'll sand out when I buff it.

I've been focusing on the trailer now that the trike is done. The inside is just about ready for paint. The amount of grinding and sanding to make the inside usable was phenomenal. Here's a shot with the start of the inside framework. Almost done. The hinges are basically done, just a little finish work. I originally planned to use the back doors as a ramp. As I went a different route, I'll have to add some bracing to the framework to hold the ramps I need to make for the trike.

I always fall back on the Paasche vl kit. Although the VL is a bit larger and heavier than most brushes, it take 10 times the abuse of almost any other brush. and you can get the VL kit (Not just the brush) for under $60. Replacement parts are always easy to get either online or just about any hobby or art supply shops. With the VL kit, you get the brush, 2 extra needles and head assemblies (this gives you fine, medium and large spray patterns), a color cup and 2 jars, the airline, and the wrench. Here's a job I recently did using the VL.

The mini trike is done. Well now that I look at the pics, I need a little touch up here and there. I really hate the fact that my camera can see better than I can! Well, basically it's done. I had to prove to myself it actually would fit. It does,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, barely. And the pretty much finished trike.

I can see see this going to be a very cool project. A very refreshing idea for a woody. That front axle's looking pretty good too. If it's a "Wouldn't", does that mean you'll be painting the wood frame work to represent metal of fiberglass? Are you leaving the metal bare? (I hope!)

I can't take credit for the design, it came that way.

The trike is real close to being done. I've added plugs and wires to the engines along with a Tee handle for the recoil.The backbone of the trike is also the fuel tank, I made fittings from .030 hex rod and some wire for the fuel lines. The hole you see is for the filler cap which will be bullet shaped. I added a mechanical brake to the rear axle along with the linkage from the pedal back. I broke one of the back wheels and have another made. I've got a little paint work left, mount the throttle cable, and forks and the trike will be done.

I added a double layer of 3/64 rod to flair out the bottom of the trailer to match the Jeep. After the filler was ready I mounted the fenders. It's getting there. The trike is painted and ready for assembly and detail.

Sorry but I'm new to casting, I don't think I have the knowledge or skill to make the frame for the trike.

Another build that is beyond words. I might not always like the subject you choose to build, but I think I see why you pick them. You seem to enjoy a challenge of recreating something that requires a lot of thought, skill, and effort. I would add time to the list, but you really fly through these builds. Not once have you failed to amaze me since I've found your work.

Ray, you can follow the build here. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=69038

Some stuff from my current build. Everything but the wheels, tires, and brakes. Again, everything but wheels and tires. Everything but the engines, chain/sprocket, and front tire.

With USPS, tracking is a fun game of what unnecessary route will this package take to get to me.

Here's a set using the skateboard wheels and Evergreen rod.

I decided the trike deserved better rear wheels. I cut a piece of tube (3/8"?) to make the main hoop for the rim. I then cut a piece that fits snugly in the main hoop and five pieces of .030 hex rod. After arranging the spokes, I added a small drop of MEK to a length of .080 rod and pressed it into the center of the spokes. Once it dried, I added a drop of CA for added strength. Then the spokes were centered on the small hoop and cemented in place. A small length of tube was added to the back to mount the axle. Cemented at first to get as centered as possible, then Ca glued. The spokes were trimmed to the outer part of the hoop. Front Back Slide the center in from the back and cement into place. An improvement over the steelie wouldn't you say?

It's from the Vandal kit.