Psychographic

s So 27th out of 36, I'm not impressed.

I'm taking the Jeep out of storage! I'm dusting it off and taking inventory of the parts and trying to remember where I left off and what direction I was going with it. Stay tuned.

Maybe it was a 1/4 scale RC body.

As said already, etching primer is the way to go. As a side note, have you tried looking into diecast models for a tank, or the one from the Lil' Gasser Showrod?

Your original airbrush spitting sounds like the packing is either loose or damaged.

Why not just cement the split seam on the body? I understand you paid good money for a new undamaged kit, but why not repair what you have rather than wait forever?

Put a sectioned grille to match the body, pull the headlights back some, lose those ridiculously tall zoomies and you've got something.

H.O. train coupler springs work great, I just found these today. They are made by Kadee, part # 622 Here's one next to a piece of 1/16" rod for size comparison.

I've wanted a flat window Chevy since I got back into modeling. I can't wait for this to be available!

Well for one thing, most of them have not run all 4 races so far. Now I'm sure some just didn't run well enough to even qualify, but you also have to realize most of those behind her are not using top tier equipment and are on much more limited funds. I would also bet a lot of them are running limited schedules. So if you take that into consideration,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Each airbrush is different, Some spray great at as low as 10psi and others need about 15 to 20. What pressure you use has a major factor in thinning your paint. A smaller nozzle will need thinner paint than a larger one. This ratio stuff is pretty much nonsense if you ask me, the best it can do is get you in the ballpark. Keep practicing and soon it will be second nature to you.

There is no way she's gained more attention the Dale Earnhardt or Jr., but I understand your point and agree100% that's where she's earned her keep.

You sir, are an artist beyond words. I'm pretty much speechless after looking at this. How long did it take to build this?

I wouldn't say she sucks, she just doesn't deserve the attention the media gives her. At least she seems much more humble in Nascar than she was in IRL.

I like the wheels, what I don't like is the sidewalls of the rear tires appears to be a small diameter than that of the front tires.

And how many of those races was Blaney stuck with a start and park team? I do wish he would go back to running sprints full time, he's still got it as he has a win down in Fla. this year. Also out of those drivers, how many of them got as much air time as Danica? That's where the hate comes from.

It's pretty easy to figure out how much to thin any paint for an airbrush. Look at the feathering of your spray pattern ( the part from the center where it goes from a solid coverage to no coverage). If it looks like a puddle, it's too thin. If it's grainy, it's too thick. What you want is a nice fog from from the center out.

Grand Prix-1966 Le Mans-1971 I don't think I need to say anymore.

I'm not much of a fan of F1 anymore, but I thought this was a cool video explaining some of the rule changes for the 2014 cars.

Yeah, it sucks, but just think of it as more practice. The more bodywork you do the easier it gets. Pretty soon you'll be saying to yourself, why did I ever worry about doing it.

OK Ira, less replying and more building! The suspense of what this will look like with the suspension hanging off it with some wheels and tires on it is killing me. It's coming along nicely brother.

Gluing that back together is no more work than putting two two engine halves together. Why not fix what you have?

I know the initial investment for a qt. of automotive clear is a lot compared to a small bottle of hobby clear, but when you compare them ounce for ounce, the hobby clear is WAY more money. Clear is something you use on almost every paintjob, so to me it makes sense to invest wisely. Add the shipping costs or the cost of gas each time you need another 1-2 once bottle of clear and the cost really skyrockets. Check your local auto body supply houses for "off brands" many of them are made by the major paint suppliers. One brand that comes to mind is Nason, they make a great clear and it's considerably cheaper than Dupont, PPG, Sikkens, and other major brands. Also look to see if they have a house brand, these get even cheaper. I can buy a qt. of house brand urethane clear with the activator for the price of about 8 ounces of clear lacquer from the hobby shop. That does NOT include the price of gas or shipping. Another cheap alternative is Duplicolor's pre thinned qts. of lacquer at about $30. These can be bought at Auto Zone, Advance, etc.. They take a bit of getting used to and need to be thinned a bit more for airbrush use. I found you need to apply very thin coats allowing each coat to flash. I bought the basics for base colors, black, white, silver and the clear. I rarely use the clear other than for temporary sealing of a color. Paint is NOT cheap to start with and the little bottles of hobby paint are astronomical.

Chris, do you know if the Mop & Shine will work as a barrier coat to prevent colored plastic from bleeding?

What are you guys waiting for? I just got my kit and I'm ready to dive into it!