Psychographic

Again, thank you all for the positive comments. Unfortunately the pictures don't show it but the paint is all done with pearl nail polish. What you will see if you look, is the giant fish eye right in the middle of where the door would be. When I was in the drugstore looking for a white pearl, I was being "stalked" by an attractive employee, she was trying not to be obvious that she was watching me. She finally came up to me and said, "I gotta ask, what's with the men coming in and buying nail polish?" I explained what I was painting and told her my options are go to a hobby shop and pay about $6 dollars for the same amount of paint, of which there are no really nice colors that come close to what's available in NP, or go to my supply house and pay upwards of $60 for a pint of paint and that does not include the reducer. She told me I was the third guy in there looking for NP, one needed to paint something on a scope for a rifle, and one was touching up paint on a carb for a lawn mower. The cool thing was, when I told her I build custom models, she didn't look at me with the "Why is a grown man playing with kids toys?" She actually helped me find the pearl white and then broke out a box from behind the counter of stuff that didn't fit on the shelves and helped me rummage through that looking for unique colors. Now that I think about it, I wonder if she is single,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

If that's the wing I'm thinking off and I'm pretty sure it is, on the back side of where the two flaps are, were two round red lights. I'm going to guess they were about 3" in diameter.

Thank you all gentleman. I really like the hot glue idea and will try that next time. Cheap and easy, well at least on paper.

Just a suggestion, I would cut the outside circle first in case you cut all the way through. This way everything is still intact to line up your circle cutter to the center mark for the inside cut.

I was at my LHS the other day and it had been pouring rain all day. The parking lot was getting some huge puddles in it and I joked to the owner, "It looks like you should start racing RC boats out there and give up on the cars", I mentioned I was glad this wasn't snow as we would be buried again, I also said "Let it rain, it's just that much sooner the grass turns green, flowers start blooming and the trees get their leaves back". With that the guy behind me says "So you're looking forward to cutting the grass each week?" I replied, "I'll take cutting the grass on a nice day over freezing my butt off shoveling snow 3 times a week." He didn't have a comeback for that.

On my last two projects, I switched from styrene to brass for the pose-able steering parts. I like the precision and the strength of the brass, not to mention once the solder cools it's a solid piece and you're not waiting for cement or glue to dry/cure. I would like to also start using the brass for making suspension parts for the same reasons. My soldering skills are good enough to do what I want, my problem lies in holding the parts precisely to each other. I was hoping someone might have an idea for a solid hands free jig to help me further my skills. So what do you use? Pics would be appreciated, and as usual, thanks.

As it's a model and won't be subject to weather, constant washing and flying debris, you should be OK. This is provided you don't plan to do any taping for a second color or anything like that. If the clear is your last part of the painting process I wouldn't worry too much about it. As Bill said, the reason for a limited time for clearing is indeed adhesion. Some modern basecoats dry so fast and hard, the clear won't "bite" into them after a short period of time. If it's not a metallic color you can color sand the base for better adhesion if you are worried. If it is a metallic color and you are still worried about adhesion, I would color sand, recoat with the base, then clear it within the given window by the manufacturer.

Randy, you obviously are not from this planet, humans aren't meant to do work this amazing. Now please go back to your home planet as you are definitely making the rest of us look bad. This is one of the most incredible builds I've seen so far.

The seatbelts are done after about 3 hours of working on those tiny little PE parts. I can't mount the shoulder straps until the cage is in as they mount to it. I thought it would be easier to mount then to the cage first. I cut little pieces of the PE sprue, bent them at 90 degrees, and Ca glued them to the floor and cage for mounting points for the belts. Talk about an exercise in patience and coordination, two things I seem to be lacking in my old age! I won't mount the cage until I finish up a couple of more parts. One of those parts is the new cover for the transaxle and rear suspension. I made one before this project stalled, but I have no clue how it fit because it sure doesn't now. I made a buck out of .030 sheet styrene and want to try the heat shrink clear bottle trick to make it. Here's the piece in place. It still needs a little shaping to fill in around the part that sticks out in the middle of the back as I doubt the bottle plastic will conform to it very well.

It's the Coffin Corner. Check your PM.

You didn't do so bad with Bandit 1 yourself Bob. It see to be quite a hit. Usually DW's don't seem to get much attention on this site, but you've kicked up quite a bit of interest. I don't think there are many people on here that are into Showrods, but we might have picked up a few. Maybe next time.

As I like tin boxes of all types, I voted for that. But I would only buy it once, no need to spend the extra money. Now that I think of it, I do have one of the blueprinter and one of the new reissue full color boxes. I also have an original box from an ebay Junkyard lot I bought.

With just about everything buttoned up on the front of the engine I was able to see how close I could get the grille/headllight assembly. Luckily it was able to get much closer than I thought which helped with the overall image. Between that and the front fenders I'm starting to get happy with the look of this build again.

I was planning to use braided line for the radiator hoses, but it looked to small compared to my fittings ( which are probably out of scale and to big). So off to Micheal's to see what I could find. I was to give up and just pick up the ribbon for the sealtbelts when I found some 1/16" mylar braided elastic. It sucked to work with, but I got them done. As you can see, it's pretty tight in there. I've also got the alternator bracket done and in place. The start of the seatbelts.

http://truckyeah.jalopnik.com/watch-and-hear-hondas-1000cc-lawn-mower-hit-130-mph-1556921656/@matthardigree

I'm trying to find some PE seatbelt hardware that will work with ribbon. My first set I bought was almost impossible to figure out and came with no instructions. I'm currently trying a set from Model Car Garage, but to do the adjusters properly you have to feed the belt through the tiny slot, around the pin and back out the slot. There is not enough room to fit two thicknesses of ribbon through that tiny slot. I see a lot of guys using PE hardware with ribbon, so I'm asking what PE kit are you using?

Bob, you already know how much I like this build, but why not stroke your ego over here too. Great job buddy!

Jason, that looks great. Nice and clean.

It does have a decent frame and engine. You can build some cool stuff with them. It's a shame you didn't get the wheels and tires. Not that I have a great knowledge of parts from different kits, but the tires and Cragers in this kit are the nicest I've seen.

Quite an project you've got going here and it looks like your handling it very well. I'm looking forward to see how it progresses and how you tackle some of the things needed to finish the body.

Thank you. It took 2 months to build this. How do you know Ira's not hanging out with me? Actually I met Ira on another forum and this build is for a contest we are both entered in, I'm going up against his Fire Frog.

Thank you all for the great comments, it means a lot coming from the talented builders on this forum.

As someone who is a novice at casting, I have one suggestion for you for casting something rather large but thin such as the interior tub. Use a resin that takes a while to set. I started with an Alumilite kit and their resin sets up in about 90 seconds, that's hardly enough time to get it to flow through the whole mold. Also think about vents to allow the air to be displaced by the resin, it can get trapped in a lot of places you might not expect. Hopefully more experienced people will have better and more suggestions for you. I think being able to cast your own parts is very useful. Let's say you build a lot of lowriders, buying aftermarket pumps can get expensive after a while, especially when you consider shipping costs. On my last build, I lost a Corvair valve cover when it went down the drain while rinsing it after a trip to the stripper. I used Alumilites mold putty to make the mold as it sets quick (I wouldn't use it for any complex parts) and had a new cover in about 20 minutes. I saved myself from having to ask for a part, wait for the right person to read about it and then have it mailed to me. Resin casting supplies are not exactly cheap, but are worth it IMO.

English please.

I would start with what HOK recommends, 2 parts Paint, 1 part Catalyst and 1 part Reducer. If it sprays grainy or dry, slowly add reducer until you get a nice fog from the center, solid coverage in the center to no coverage the outside of you're spray pattern. It's pretty much impossible to give a correct formula as each airbrush is different and how a person uses it, what pressure you spray at can make a big difference also.