fractalign

The overall proportions appear to be correct now. I crossed referenced the body with the image of a 1:1 I found on Google. And it looks about right. I will be measuring the rear of my 1:1 in the next day or so to make sure it is correct. And once i have worked that out I will begin to make the housing for the tail lights.

Hey Guys. When I scale down the overall length from the dimension I printed out I realised the the body came up short by 3mm. Looking at the body I came to the conclusion that length needed to be made up in the rear. So I added the appropriate amount of styrene sanded it back and filled it.

Thanks for the offer Jim but I took a much simpler approach. The 32 fenders were widened and the wheel tubs were incorporated into the fenders. They are one and the same unit. Once I had completed the tubbed fenders I used a piece of styrene to join the two sides. The fenders are actually a single unit that sits flush over the top of the chassis. Once I have completed the chassis and cast it I will put up some photos of the finished unit with a few different body combinations. Cheers !

Thanks for the feedback Roger. I will certainly do some research, I really like the quick change, so I may end up making a new housing for it. I already have something in mind. Cheers !

Hey Casey. I said these were the final photos of the chassis because I am not putting any more photo's of the master up. In my opening thread I also mention that I still had the surface finishing to do, as in the filling and sanding. These are construction shots and I am sorry if you overlooked that fact. I never said that the chassis is finished, what I did say was that all the major construction is complete, as in the cross members and the narrowed rear rails. With limited movement in my right hand at the moment, completing the surface finishing is taking longer than it normally would. Please understand that having recently had a car accident and ending up with a broken wrist I am presented with new challenges especially with my arm in a cast. However I intend to get every surface and join to sit flush. I am also have some other modellers to looking at the finished chassis before I launch it on the forum. So you can rest assured that when it goes up on the forum it will be finished.

Here is how it looks with the body sitting in place. With the gauge now complete I was able to try and fit the other bodyside. Over all there are not too many differences but the other body side will need a thicker C pillar. The next task will be to start getting the other bodyside to resemble this one.

Hey Guys. I spent the afternoon putting the rest of the contour gauge together. The last part to finish off was the section that sits above the fenders. I had some filing to do to get the body to sit flush inside it. The white background is a couple of sheets of paper laid down. It was messy getting the final piece to slot in which explains all the shiny glue marks. A lot of glue was needed to get this last part to stick.

Thanks for the feedback Charles. I will keep that in mind.

Hey Jim. I followed your build with great interest. I can't recall seeing another 32 pro street build on the forum before. Your's is certainly a stand out !

Hey Bob. I won't be selling through the Facebook page, that is only to showcase the products. I am actually putting together a website together at the moment, I have already starting working on the homepage. The website will go under the name "Rods in Resin" Because I have never put a website together its slow going at the moment, I have to make sure all the information is correct before I publish it. When the chassis is ready to launch I will put it back up on this thread with all the information about how it can be ordered including a link to the website and another to the Rails in Resin email as well. The email will be the main way to order it. When you send me a request I can email you back an E catalogue. The catalogue will have an order form at the end that can be printed and filled out, scanned and emailed back to me or else you can reply back directly with your request for the chassis. As each model and component is completed I will add a production number to it. Just quote the number and i will know what you want. Cheers !

Here is how its looks with the body and wheels added. Once all the parts of the contour gauge are added the unit will surround the whole body and because the wheelbase is already set up with the axles in place, the other body side will be able to resemble this one. The next task will be to finish the windscreen/hood contour gauge and add it.

With the wheelbase measurements worked out I decided to put this together. The lower contour gauges for the under side had the side cut away for the addition of wheels. A piece of timber was added top the bottom edge to reinforce the gauge. Another piece of ply was added to the back and a slat was cut to allow the upper count our gauge to be added. I also cut holes where the wheelbase was measured from and added axles for the wheels.

Hey Guys. After nearly a month away from it I decided to get back into the build. My arm is still in cast but the next but with the next check up still a month away I can't wait any longer. I have already lost a month and I don't on losing another. With move movement of my right hand somewhat restricted I am finding most tasks a challenge. The last thing I was working on was the parcel shelf, that is on hold at the moment duh to its complex structure. Instead I have decided to focus on the body again. A couple of weeks ago I was looking for parts for my Torana the 1:1 version and I came across this. Titled "Torana Specifications" It had the important measurements for each model type. I circled the ones relevant to the XU-1 since my own version is only a standard model. This was also an opportunity to the cross reference my own measurements.

Another thing I did was fill in the right hand windscreen pillar to the same thickness as the left one and then put another undercoat on to check how flush the hood and the cab sit. The next task will be to finish the radiator grill surround on the hood and then finish off the hood itself.

Yesterday I recommenced working on the cab. There is not much left to do other than make sure the hood and cab sit flush against each other so I spot glued the hood to the cab to begin filling all the gaps.

Hey Guys. Its been nearly two months since I posted anything so I decided to get back into the build properly. I did not stop working on the truck all together, instead I focussed on the chassis. The chassis has been reinforced with 1mm by 1mm box tubing on the inside rails to make it a C frame. New cross members were also been added. The reinforced rails definitely leave no doubts as to this being a truck chassis.

The other thing I mentioned in the previous post was the adjustable track 9 inch rear end. The first image shows the rotor moved inward for a pro street or competition set of wheels. The second image shows the rotor moved outward for a standard street type configuration. Because the rotor and flange are one piece it slides easily in either direction. Because the diff housing is free of air bags and shock mounts, there is nothing to affect the adjustment of the track. The four bar assembly and coil over are one piece units as well so they can be moved accordingly as well. I have also created another rear end with a fixed track that will use the same four bar assemblies and quick change as this one. Both rear ends will be the mainstay of the "Rods in Resin" range of pre 49 curb side kits that will be launched in the new year.

Most of the construction of the exhaust system is complete, it just needs the tail pipes. Like the chassis there will be finishing to do on it.

Hey Guys. These are the final photos of the chassis. Next time you see it it will be as a finished resin kit. Anyway most of the construction is done and these photos show some things that were left out previously. The two channels in the cross members are to hold the the exhaust system in place.

I am hoping to release it as soon as my wrist comes out of its cast. In the meantime I am a working on the "Rails in Resin" Facebook page.

Thats a fine effort. I did a similar conversion years ago but yours puts mine to shame !

The final image shows how the unit sits under the Revell 32 5 window body. There is still quite a bit of finishing to do on these fenders but once complete they should sit flush with any Revell 32 body. I have several other Revell 32 bodies that I am also using to test fit these fenders. Once I have cast up a few and I am happy with the finish I will be marketing them under the title "Rails In Resin" These will be the first in a range of pre 49, Pro Street based chassis kits. Once these are complete I will be moving onto finishing off a 33 Willys chassis and a 40 Ford Chassis.

With the tubbed fenders in place I placed in a set of the largest pro street tyres I could find, these are Firestones.

The basic unit will consist of a tubular engine mount, a pair of cross members, a set of integrated coil over four bar links and a tubbed set of fenders. Here is the assembled setup, minus the tubbed fenders. The nine inch rear features a separate quick change rear and an adjustable track. Although they are not shown, the rotor/flanges are one piece units that can be moved inboard or outboard according to tyre width. They simply slide onto the end of the diff housing. As a result the diff itself can be made into a pro street unit or remain standard.

Hey Guys. This is something I have been working on for several months now. It was mastered from the Revell 1:25 scale 1932 Ford Chassis. Once complete, this will fit under any of the 1:25 scale Revell 32 Ford kits. Most of the construction is complete, I just have to add the rear spreader bar and concentrate on the surface finish, which will take considerably longer due to a broken wrist.