fractalign

Will do !

The one in the front in the image is the upper half.

This is the rear end It will use. The rear cross member, leaf spring and wishbones are from the Lindberg 34 Pickup. The diff and driveshaft are from the AMT 56 Victoria.

Another important area I have been working out is the wheel tyre combination. Here is what I am thinking of running. I am not sure about the slicks, if I can find an equivalent street version I will certainly use it.

The door panels have been decided and the panel in front of the seat will sit above it where the rear window is. This panel will also hide the clear styrene that will make up the rear glass.

Hey Guys. I have been trying to work out upholstery options for the T Coupe and I have decided on this combination for the bench seat. I got as far as cutting out the centre and marking out a template. Mind won't be exactly the same but it will be close.

Thanks for the encouragement guys, I managed to get the fourth cross member added and undercoated today. There is only the rear cross member left now. Once they are all in place I can add the remaining studs and the chassis will be finished. I hope to have some photos up tomorrow. Cheers !

Hey Guys. Things have been slow lately. I have worked out the rear end I will be using. It will combine the quick change diff from the AMT 56 Victoria, sitting inside the leaf spring and wishbones setup from the Lindberg 34 pickup kit. The diff will have a wider track to allow the body to sit lower in the chassis. I am also working out the upholstery options. The bench seat will have diamond pattern inserts. Sorry about the lack of photos. I will post some up tomorrow. Cheers !

Thanks for the positive encouragement guys !

That's awesome, Seagraves were a really cool looking truck, so good to see one built up as a model.

The wheel and drum sitting around the stub axle. The next task will be to get the rest of the chassis finished then I can move onto completing the wheel and front end.

Without a doubt the most frustrating part of this build was sourcing wheels. For two years I tried a number of different methods from scratch building them, to looking for aftermarket wheels to even buying a 1:24 scale diecast kit to get the wheels off. I even tried scanning and 3d printing a 1:1 wheel that I owned, before buying the diecast kit. Nothing worked, I had settled on using the diecast wheel until I broke it from over machining. That was a good thing because it was far from accurate to begin with, even with my improvements. With that wheel broken it was back to the drawing board and scratch building another wheel. This time I would plan everything out. not only did the stud and hole placement need to be even, the disc face need to be correct as well. Here is what I came up with. Although far from perfect its a vast improvement on anything else I have seen. I have not worked out how I will create the outer rim yet but I have a few ideas in mind.

With the transmission cross member in place.

Here is how the chassis looks with the leaf springs sitting in place.

The cross member that sits to the in line with the front edge of the rear leaf springs had a very complex shape. The front and rear walls bow out in the centre and the flange at the bottom is pointed rather than arch shaped. You will notice the mounting brackets at the top of the cross member are in the process of being marked out for studs as well.

The metallic grey paint is enamel so its less prone to quick drying than acrylic based paint. Hear are the two side studs, I still need to do the top and underside studs.

Originally I was going to use pin heads for the cross member studs, but this was proving too messy so I came up with a simpler neater solution.

Hey Guys. I have not posted anything up about the build since November last year. How time flies, the good news is I have not stopped working on it, I have just had a lot of hurdles. I was never really happy with how the chassis looked so I was lucky enough to find some Google images of the same type as mine. Once I saw the images, I realised everything on mine was wrong so I had to start again. Only the original rails remain, everything else is new and scratch built as well. Even the front leaf spring cross member.

Always good to see others building this kit. Have you considered hinging the doors ? Why Revell did not make opening doors on this kit is a mystery, its the perfect scale.

Anyone looking to purchase the business would need to ask them selves what they are actually getting. They would need to find out if all the moulds need to be replaced, whether the masters would be included in the sale and even if the business is actually for sale. From the waiting time for the orders, it sounds like the business it too big an operation for one person to manage. It would make sense to get a group of like minded individuals together to make the purchase assuming the business is for sale. Each investor would probably need several thousand dollars and the casting and mastering skills to create new designs. They would also need to have small business and marketing skills. They would also have to work from a central location in order to maximise efficiency. Everything would need to be done in house. I have no doubt there are people capable of the task but its a question of whether any of them would be willing to take on the responsibility. It will be interesting to see how it pans out.

Hey Guys. I have been thinking about kicking this one off again. I had a very serious car accident about a month after my last post that left me with a broken wrist. And since the beginning of the year I have been trying to wrap another project up. As for this one I have come up with a few more ideas. I have decided to turn it into a street gasser and I will be swapping the small block Chev for a Hillborn Injected Hemi or even an Arden equipped side valve. I will be running a straight tubular front axle as well. Anyway I hope I can make some time to get this one started again.

I have thought about pin striping as well along with scallops but at the moment I am focussing on getting some body decals made up. I am looking at making a couple of sets for the Revell 69 Camaro and Revell 32 Ford Kits first up. After I have done these I might move onto doing some for the Revell 40 Fords and 41 Willys, 55 Chevs and maybe the 69/70 Mustangs.

I had to do a double take when I saw that image I thought that was yard here in OZ. My fellow countrymen seem to prefer 4 door sedans over two doors for some weird reason, so I can imagine if that was over here someone would have offered vast sums to buy it. As for the general public, they do not like cars full stop. Most of my country men hate our locally built cars and would rather own a Chinese built or Korean built auto. So as far as the majority of people go this is just another old bomb.

This is common issue with resin bodies. There is always shrinkage when the bodies are cast, this coupled with the fact that resin bodies need to be thicker to avoid distortion means that fitting interiors into them will always be an issue. Another company to look into is Replicas and Minitures.

Hey Guys. While I don't have a 68 Camaro kit I do a have a Revell 69 Camaro kit, I can use to test designs out on. The one below is a good example of what I would like to do minus the racing signs of course. As far as earlier designs go Harold, post up what you have in mind I am open to all suggestions, this style would suit early rods such as the Revell 30 & 32 Fords and MPC 32 Chevs, the other one would suit later customs. I just don't want to do racing decals because this is a well worn path and copyright issues are a factor.