Harry P.

I used these photos that I found doing a google search as my references. Looks like the basic engine assembly was painted a semigloss black. As you can see in the last photo, the engine in the foreground has a different color on the trans, the engine in back is all black. My guess is that the engine in the foreground is restored incorrectly (or to the current owner's personal preference). My guess would be that the block and trans were all painted the same semi-gloss black. Henry Ford wasn't big on fancy-schmancy... I can't think of any practical reason why Ford would have painted the transmission a different color than the rest of the engine. For the gas tank, I glued the halves together with liquid cement, which actually melts and fuses the plastic. I sanded off the molded-in mounting straps, used a little Bondo to fill the seam and sanded everything smooth. Then just painted it and made new mounting straps from real brass strip. I liked the look of the unpainted brass so I left my straps bare brass... that is technically incorrect, as those straps would have been painted body color on a real T. But I liked the look of the brass, so I left them bare.

As Ralph Kramden would say... hamana hamana hamana hamana....

I don't doubt it. A classic design, one of the best ever from MOPAR. Or anyone!

"Moon tank from Revell 5-Window 32 Coupe." Says so right in his description of the model...

Ok, now you know where to find Matt. And you fixed your signature "issues." Now tell me how I can get in touch with Kimberly Guilfoyle...

Beautiful! Exceptional copy of the real thing!

Beautiful! But why "On the Workbench?" Looks finished to me. Shouldn't this be "Under Glass?"

That's not just a good looking Charger... that's one of the best looking cars ever, IMO.

She was looking good in 1999...

If you've ever gone on one of those "Celebrities without makeup" sites you would be freaked out seeing some famous people who you thought you knew what they look like. Scary stuff. The photo of Debbie Harry that Dean posted is of her without all the war paint (or very little of it)... but I'd say not all that bad for 68!

Exactly what I was thinking!

If it was me the strips would go on before painting, and they would be foiled after painting. Way too risky to try and glue them in place on a finished, painted body.

The best way by far is liquid cement. I like Ambroid Pro Weld because it works on several types of plastic besides styrene. What I would do is tape the molding in place with a few small strips of masking tape (do not tape down along the whole length of molding, just a few spots spaced apart). The use a tiny bit of the liquid cement to tack the molding in place in a couple of spots between the tape strips. Once that glue dries, remove the tape and run a brushful of the glue along the entire length of the molding. The glue will flow by capillary action... you don't need a lot. Liquid cement will give you a clean joint... no glue showing or squishing out.

Wise move. But pretty sad that it had to be done.

It should be 1/16 the size of the real car's frame channels.

Ford never offered Model Ts in white, so a white one would represent a car that the owner had painted after the fact. And since the owner painted it, there is no "should" regarding the color of the underside of the fenders. Either our fictitious owner painted them white or he left them in the original body color (which in 1910 would have been either dark blue, dark green, gray or black).

The fact that some people post phony praise while others post honest critiques doesn't really apply to the topic of this thread.

Have you noticed that it's a plastic toy car forum???

Sorry... Harry has to be the first name. Can someone get that poor girl a sweater before she catches pneumonia?

I think exposure to stuff like that is cumulative... like exposure to asbestos. There is no "safe" level.

Don't be so quick to play the "moron" card. Just because someone is willing and able to spend a lot more on a kit than you think is appropriate doesn't automatically make them a moron. That person may have a personal reason for wanting a particular kit... maybe it was the first kit his father ever bought him when he was a kid... maybe it's the kit he always wanted but never had the chance to get until now... there are all sorts of reasons why a person would be willing to pay big bucks for a kit that you don't think is worth the price.

It depends on the intent of the builder. If you've built a model to enter in the Box Stock contest class, and that kit has a "magic floating alternator," then you haven't made a mistake. You've accepted the mistakes in the kit because you intentionally built that kit to meet a certain specific standard. However... if you built that kit to enter into the "factory stock" class, and you were either too lazy to add the missing bracket, or don't know that an alternator can't be held up by the belt, then you've made a mistake. However Part 2: If you built that kit just to please yourself, you have no intentions of competing against other modelers, and you're happy with it as it is, "magic floating alternator" and all... then all is well in your world. However Part 3: If you then post pictures of that kit on an online forum, be prepared for feedback, and don't be personally offended if someone points out to you that an alternator can't be held in mid air by the drive belt. Posting your work for the public to see means the public will see it... and comment on it.