Harry P.

So... Revell, Monogram, Lindberg, Aurora, etc... all of the kits of the time that were made, but not made by AMT... all of those just didn't count?

They were founded over 25 years ago. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wiesmann

Good point! Aside from those few kits that everybody by now knows are bad (Palmer, anyone???), whenever anyone tells you a particular kit is "bad," you have no idea how really "bad" the kit is, because you don't know the skill level of the person making the comment! A guy who's a fairly untalented modeler is going to see a lot of kits as "bad," because he had a hard time with them. But was it because the kits were bad... or the builder's skills were bad??? Something to think about.

Cool! Those old Schwinns are worth a few bucks!

Ah yes... the famous "dipped in syrup" look...

I think it might have been cool to do the snakeskin deal in a ghosted, subtle way... maybe even cover the whole car with it, but faded back so that it's there, but not so "in your face" there. Sort of like ghost flames. "Ghost scales!"

This has all the makings of a great tip: Simple, foolproof, clever... and it works! Great stuff!

Click on the link in my last post.

The car is a 2011 Wiesmann GT MF5 http://autocarpictur...t-mf5-pictures/ Who got it right: carsntrucks4u Badluck 13 The Creative Explorer MikeMc trogdor ChrisR Jon Cole Pat Redmond mr chips Junkman Ryan S Modelmartin jaymcminn

"Styrene Junkie." Now there's a magazine devoted to it!

Have you seen "Rivet Counter Review?"

If a person has the skill (and the patience) to overcome the kit's flaws, the finished models are about as impressive as any scale model car you'll ever see. I've built quite a few of them, and I can say from experience that building one is the most frustrating and the most satisfying modeling experience you can have.

ok, here's an answer most of you never thought you'd hear: Pocher. Yep, those incredibly expensive, incredibly complex and incredibly detailed 1/8 kits of classic Fiats, Alfas, Mercedes, RRs, Bugattis, etc. You would think that a kit that sold for several hundred bucks new (and these days routinely over a grand, if and when you can even find one) would have had some mighty impressive engineering, but no! As detailed and impressive as they are, you would be shocked to see just how many problems you come across building one... everything from parts that don't fit together very well to parts that don't fit together at all unless you perform major surgery. Doors and hood panels that don't fit into their respective openings, holes on the fenders for the mounting screws that are nowhere near their respective holes on the body, etc. Building a Pocher and having it come out looking good in the end is a major headache, and probably more of a hassle than most sane people would be willing to put up with. But I love them!

Thank you!

Ah yes... one of my favorite kits from my childhood! I remember that trailer that it came with... it had that huge "glass" bubble top. Very cool to my 8 or 9-year old eyes! I agree with George... customizing a custom is pretty cool!

Acrylics are water based, so if you're talking about how to clean wet acrylic paint off your brushes, the simplest way is soap and water. I use dishwashing soap and clean the brushes in the kitchen sink.

It all depends. There were a bazillion versions of the Hawaiian, probably no two of them were exactly alike. Generally the chute lines are attached to the rear axle or some other sturdy chassis crossmember.

You can get a nice glossy finish using just about any type of paint. There is no one "best" paint to use, it's all a matter of personal preference. You'll see that as the answers here start to pile up... everyone will tell you a different story as to which paint is the best to use, and of course they'll all tell you that the paint they use is the best! But if you apply the paint correctly, any type of paint will give you a nice glossy finish (except semigloss or flat paint, obviously!). And you can always add a gloss clear coat or use a polishing kit or automotive polishing compounds to get a really nice gloss. And as far as using "non-hobby" paints... absolutely! In fact I prefer them (DupliColor).

I don't think it's physically possible to build a working 1/24 scale engine, if by "working" you mean internal combustion four-stroke running on gas. The internal parts would be so tiny that they couldn't possibly take the stresses, and how would you maintain tolerances that are already microscopic in full scale and scale those town 24 times smaller?

Check this out: http://www.bonediggers.com/2-2/boxman/ewgal.html Scroll all the way to the bottom for the "Gallery" link...

There's only one answer to this: Anything is worth whatever a buyer is willing to pay for it. Someone obviously was willing to spend $600 on that model; it was "worth" that much to the buyer. If a person wants the item enough, and has the money to buy it, that's all the "logic" the buyer needs.

Sometimes what you want is only available from one place (like a particular decal sheet, for example), so you can't "shop around." But for any item I buy online that's available from a lot of sources, I do a google price search and buy from whoever has the items I want for the lowest cost (price plus S&H). Pretty simple... the answer to what my favorite online store is, is the one that will sell me what I want for the lowest price!

Fake boxes for models that never were.