Harry P.

The problem with Alex's method (cover the glass with tape and then use an X-acto to cut along the trim edge) is that it works best when there is some sort of raised (or indented) line for the blade to follow. The question here was regarding a case where there is no definite edge for the blade to follow. In that case, when using Alex's method you better have a super steady hand and a lot of luck... because one slip, or being off in your cutting, will ruin the glass... because the knife cut will be in the glass. By using my method, no X-acto is needed. You define the area to be painted with the edge of the tape... and if you mess up, all you have to do is remove the tape and do it again. There's no danger of messing up the glass.

Real or model? The answer: MODEL!

Personally I'd go with A.

Nice!

Is it finished? The giant hole where the grille should be is kind of... um... obvious.

This might be completely unnecessary, seeing as how it's been said about a bazillion times before... But, MAN! That is outstanding! Your craftsmanship and eye for detail is only outmatched by the speed with which you build. I have to assume you've found some way of skipping sleep altogether? And a "technical" question for you: Do you use any kind of magnification while you build? Or do you haver some sort of bionic super vision? Because looking at your photos, there's no way I could do what you do without a magnifier.

I don't know how accurate the green shows in the photos, but it sure looks good to me! Very nice all the way around... the attention to detail is obvious!

You could try this: Use Tamiya tape (the thin kind that goes around corners) and tape right along the inner edge of the trim on the inside of the glass (you'll be covering up the part of the glass that will NOT be painted). Depending on the shape of the glass, you might need to use separate pieces of tape if there are sharp bends or corners. Once you have taped all around the trim, fill in the rest of the glass with either masking tape or frosted cellophane tape or whatever you want to use. Also cover the outside of the glass with masking tape to keep any paint off that side. Then spray a light mist coat of flat black on the exposed trim area and let dry. You don't need an airbrush, a spray can works just fine. Another two or three mist coats should give you enough coverage. You want to keep the coats very light so the paint won't run under your tape edge.

That's cool, but why no mirrors (inside or out)??? Nice detailing on that rear taillight panel...

If you mean a kit that has separate pulleys and a separate belt... test fit the pulleys and see which one sticks out the farthest. Glue that one in place and let it dry. Use that one as the guide for the others.

If you ever find the answer, fill me in, willya?

That's pretty cool! Scratchbuilt?

Those are two good examples of accurate kits at "regular" scale (regular for most people here). Also, Revell's '67 GTX is a nice kit.

Very nice! I build wooden ship kits, too. I love the change of pace from plastic. There's just something special about working with wood.

Well, no, I guess it morphed into something more! BTW...I added my "full name" under my avatar in the interest of full disclosure. Just so we're all clear that I don't know what the hell I'm talking about!

Ken, you're right, of course. We're talking about a freakin' model car here, not the cure for cancer.

Yeah, back in those days if you wore a helmet while riding a bike, you stood a good chance of getting beaten up!

See, I'm so dumb I don't even know the right word to call myself!!!

Never dropped on my head... but I did fall off my bike a couple of times!

Actually it's Rubens. With an S. Peter Paul Rubens. And he wasn't a 19th century painter, he was a 16th-17th century painter. You're only off by a few hundred years, though. No, I didn't have to look it up... I knew it. Not bad for a simpleton, eh?

Are you sure you're pressing hard enough?

Too bad he made one of those hideous movie Batmobiles. Should have done the TV version–way cooler car!

I like how the glue smells...

Ah, but Moebius already has those sales in their pocket! MK bought them... remember???

Ken, I understand the dynamics of MK paying someone up front to do a run of say, 5.000 kits, and MK then reselling those kits under the MK banner. Basically MK was placing an order, and the kitmakers obliged. And like you said, most of those kits were old tooling that was sitting around anyway, not generating revenue... so a win-win for sure for all parties involved. But in the case of the Hudson, we're talking about a brand-new kit. i have to wonder why Moebius would partner with MK in the first place, when Moebius could (theoretically, at least) sell a NASCAR version of the Hudson itself! (Or just include the NASCAR decals in the kit). I'm not suggesting that there's anything wrong with Moebius and MK partnering up... I guess I just don't see why.