regular guy

The new design is 'quarter elliptical' springs. In plain talk it is what we know as a leaf spring cut in half. Here's the real world leaf spring. https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Suspension/Universal-Group/SP-177275.html Next is drawing the 'pads' or 'bases' for them.

I will make this a quick comment. I saw Phil Spector get out of one of these one time. Pretty much everybody in visual range stopped and looked. Very impressive. The velocity stacks make it look like it is set up for the drags. Guys would do nothing to these cars. Just drive 'em to the dragstrip and down the track they went. Keep up the good work.

Here is frame 'base' with 'uprights' drawn. They are 18" tall. On top of frame tubes. Idea is to put in a transverse leaf spring mount next. That will locate the rearend and the front axle. I've come around to 'laying out' from the rear to the front. That allows for everything. This is a suspension 'mule'. Idea is to get the suspension right then add other sections of frame.

Fixed the drawing. This one is 96" x 30". 1" square tubing. Its a 'mule' to work out front and rear suspension. Next is to add 'stands' or 'pedestals' to hang links on. Shooting for transverse leaf spring and single links. Want to keep it as simple as possible to get it built. It will be a 3/4 size real world race car with a little 4 cylinder engine.

I use Turbocad. It's the most conservative CAD drawing program. Other drawing programs will have so many features it will increase learning curve. For simple projects you can use copier paper, a ruler and a square (to make right angles). That will give you something to take to welding shop. Just telling them can lead to getting back something that isn't what you had in mind.

I made the first step and signed up for some webhosting sites. That's to put plans on there. Frames can be made at a local welding shop. One of the first 'sub projects' is simple single transverse (across the chassis) leaf spring and single radius rod suspension. Maybe all you can do with the sports car is bounce around the farm with it but it builds skills for later projects.

'Looks way out of my league.' Then it's my fault for not explaining this right. The whole idea is to get guys 'off the sidelines' and 'into the game'. My projects are just this rearranged. http://www.kingmidgetcarclub.org/junior.html I found and bought for myself 13" rims that are 4 on 4 pattern and will fit on go kart hubs.

Here's a picture. Yes. I am just playing with upload feature.:)

http://www.autoworldstore.com/product_p/amt1046.htm It's a 'Future Release' and 'Pre-order' deal at Autoworld. My comments are: I owned a White/GMC Road Boss II for a brief moment. Detroit 8V92 Road Ranger transmission. Turbocharger over Suipercharger(the big one). Those are the engines you let off the throttle and they make a rapid 'Rap-Rap-Rap'. That's because they are two stroke engines. This is a neat kit. From the old days.

Here's Turbocad drawing of first frame tube. Not much there but what is there is right. .25" tubing. 1/4 inch square tubing. 24" long. Will post more as I draw it.

'how you arrived at 24".' Sorry about that! Hate to see you waste all that effort. That work would have designed half my car. The MULE is 24" long. 1/4 scale. 8 feet long. Suspension only. That's to work out the frame sections for the suspension. 1/8 scale is 18" full car. 9' wheelbase w/18" overhang on both ends. That is just a 'rough out' design. Fine tune it later. Make drawing revisions in stages until it gets to a final form.

'Are you going with a front engine?' Yes. Different versions straight 4, straight 6, small block and big block V8. Straight 4 is for first version smaller car. Lighter weight tubing. 'found on real roads' Made the decision to leave the Bucket T type thinking behind. Build a race car type sports car. Having the foundation for the torsion bars suspension out at the ends does load the frame at the ends. Do you brace the heck out of car to make it rigid out there? No. I'm not going to. It will result in a 'Flexi Flyer' type frame. That's racing. Not made to go 100,000 miles.

Things are coming into focus more now. Drawing frame in Turbocad. Drawing it 1/8 scale. That means frame is 24" inches long in drawing. Not drawing it real world size and scaling it down with Turbocad tools. Frame is a 'mule'. Test model to refine suspension. This kind of suspension. http://www.forgottenfiberglass.com/technical/chassisframeandsuspension/build-yourself-a-kurtis-style-chassis-hot-rod-magazine-july-1954/ Key here is 'inward facing links' not outward facing like on sprint car. Our frame will be '4 tube' space frame not ladder frame like Kurtis.

I am attempting to make a webpage for projects. Like the Scale race car chassis in my post. I can't get any traction on these web building sites. Systems don't seem very intuitive. I just want a table of contents and sections for each project. Any experts on one these here to help?

Things are taking shape. 1/8" basswood will be better than 1/8" Plastruct tubing glued end to end. The basswood is a little stiffer than balsa. Frame model is 18" overall. 108" wheelbase 1:1 scale. Latest is designing passenger compartment wide. Then 'pulling in' front and rear subframes for suspension.

That's a typo. 'Sprue cutters'. Which I skipped this Hobbylinc order. It got bumped by some tools for another hobby. Tracing paper is to trace drawings in Fisher Body contest booklets. To learn how to draw.

It's an update to this.

Thanks Daddyfink Figured out not to hack our 1/8 Lindberg Big Red T or Exterminator dragster kits just for the chassis parts. Just to going to make them from scratch. Can use a 1/16 drive train and chassis just to keep around for visualization. Pretty sure the '60 Ford Starliner that's available now has a separate chassis. That would make a good 'Visible Chassis' and Visible V8. It's 1/25 but better than nothing.

Got the tracing paper to practice drawing with from Office Depot. It's the $5 and change store brand one. I say this because it can be used without a backlight. It says translucent tracing paper. Can probably get that kind other places too. Getting some Sorue cutters from Hobbylinc. Related I guess. Saves time building kits so more time for designing new bodies.

Found out difference between 1923 Model T and '24 to 27. Low radiator and high radiator. Cowl has dogleg in it to match hood on '19 to '23. Strait cowl on '25-27.

Ace You know where I was headed with the chassis question. Get the kit for a 1/16 Visible drive train w/Visible chassis. Here's the Jimmy Flintstone turtle deck body. https://www.hobbylinc.com/jimmyflintstone-1929-ford-ala-kart-body-for-amt-resin-model-vehicle-accessory-1:25-scale-nb227 It's a '19-23 with a turtledeck . Here's what Unlimited Fiberglass full scale has in a 26-27 T body. http://www.up22.com/t_bucket.htm#T-127 Scroll down bottom to T-223. Wonder what significancce of '24-25 was? There is that one '25 AMT kit. Might have been an 'in the know' good body to get.