Modelbuilder Mark

what temp are you guys that use these shooting for?

I completed mine! I am taking 8 items if memory serves me.

Thanks everyone for the comments. I know the subject is certainly out there, and not for everyone, but hey, it was a Barris design, and there were a LOT of wacky "customs" for the period. One of the ones I WISH they had put into kit form was the Vox Mobile. That would have been a very cool subject, and certanily would be cool for kit bashing.

Yeah, there are some usable parts in the kit for sure. The tub is actually pretty cool, and could be fit into a diorama pretty nice, the headers could be cleaned up and chromed and would look great, I like the rims, so indeed, there are some decent parts on here. If I see the kit again, at a decent price, I may pic another one up for parts as well. Here is another shot of the heat stains, not a great picture but you can see the mild staining

Very nice

Looks great, what are you using for the washes? Also, was that using the hairspray technique?

I use mostly Tenax or similar, (but I have heard they stopped making Tenax tho) with the glass tube applicator. Like many others on here, what I am gluing changes what glue I use. But what I have not heard so far is is watch crystal glue which is great for glass and other clear parts, or parts that you may want to clean up the area after gluing, and peel off the glue etc..I get ,mine online since the hobby shop does not have it.

Box stock build from a kit my wife bought me for my birthday last month. Completed over just a few sessions at the bench, maybe 6 evenings. The kit is fiddly to say the least. The styrene is brittle and while it looks pretty cool completed, there are a LOT of things I would do differently if you really wanted it to look great. For example, the "Amp" that make up the front of the radiator, is hollow. There is no radiator in the back, the hose that comes off the motor literally just goes into the shadow and attaches to nothing. Brass Chrome gets pretty marred up when you remove the parts (also how I learned just how brittle the parts are) and so the touch ups were done mostly with chrome silver paint with Tamiya Clear Yellow over that resulting in a decent affect in most instances. Most of the "brass" that is not chrome is Alclad brass. If I were to do this like I would a contest build, all the chrome would have had to been stripped, fix all the seems, ejector marks, etc etc, then Alclad Chrome and overcoat with the clear-yellow Tamiya. It is not in these pictures, but I did go back this morning and add heat marks to the headers with Alclad hot red and blue tints.

There is NO set amount that I will put into a kit. Some are box stock only (like the Bathtub Buggy I just finished today), and others that require parts from multiple kits from the stash, sometimes I cast some parts thus the cost of the resin, sometimes photo etch etc. It just depends on what I am trying to accomplish at that moment. I do not intend to put a lot of money into one, or TRY to make an expensive build at all. Having said that, even the "standard" expenses such as paint varies. IE: some Alclad or or other bottle paints usually get amortized over several builds. But with the aforementioned Bathtub Buggy, I used probably a third of a bottle of Alclad brass. Basically, It Just Depends! LOL

Maybe it is the degree to which they are applied/buffed, but I have not had an issue where it has been rubbed off etc. The "metal" in the paint is actually aluminum powder (I called Testors to Verify this, as I was trying to find a way to cause a reaction "rust" the paint, and found since it is aluminum, nadda) so the stuff is VERY very fine. Once on, if you buff it VERY well, then you should not have much of a rub off issue. Over time, it may react to air, giving it a very much more realistic appearance, IMO. ALSO, (slightly tying back into the about reference to sealers in the link above) I never use sealers over. the paint. You CAN spray a coat of sealer before you spray the metalizer, which does also result in a more durable finish.

Great color combo, nice stance and wheel choice.

ust what the name implies. When you shoot on the buffing version, when the paint dries, you will use a soft polsihing cloth to polish it to a VERY realistic metal finish. They can be messy while buffing, but VERY worth it. The non buffing, which there is more choices, does not require any buffing and looks great as well. I would suggest that you give them both a shot. I painted the entire body of this project with the Steal Buffing http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/uploads/gallery_8985_798_18468.jpg http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/uploads/gallery_8985_798_31399.jpg

All this chassis work salt as well? How did you get the edges to be so much thinner with paint.

REALLY liking the "driven" weathering.

sadly, not in mine either, YET! LOL

Oh yeah? You interested in the 1:1 car as well? Or....are you thinking I have "finance influence"? LOL

BUT!!!.... There is that unseen, unmeasurable "FUTURE" dollar. Why not use it as another, chea for them, outlet to promote their products to youth. This goes back to my not understanding why a tire company, ANY tire company, would not be willing to let model companies use their names. however, since it is "unmeasurable", and public companies need to be able to measure anything they do to show the shareholders, it does not mean much I guess.

So I bought a new set of the Pegasus Spinner wheels, and it only had three spinners. I sent an email to them from their website, but have yet to hear anything back from. Anyone had any experience with Pegasus responding?

Well, the Scion version will be my next car if all plans go well. Being that I work for Toyota Finance, of the cars in my price range that is the one that I am most excited about. IE: I can not afford anything like the Lexus ISF, or LFA etc etc. LOL I almost got it last year, but we bought a house instead, so my new cars plans went on hold for a bit.

The underside will look very realistic. That pan is VERY prominent on the 1:1. See here.

I do believe you are on to something here! Looking forward to more.

That's what I was thinking.

I agree, no need to have a "start date" in mind. That may take away from the fun. just START the project, and keep it simple. IF you try to dive too deep at first, you may not enjoy the process. Open the kit, wash the parts to git rid of mold release agent, study the instructions, or other kits you plan on using to kit bash if that is the case. All of this can be done without having a workbench at this point, but it gets the creative juices flowing, and gets your mind "building". Then, as time goes by, start cutting off the parts with sprue cutters, choose your tool etc etc. Build up to "building"

nice results.

Very cool! Congrats on stepping into something new!