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Everything posted by Modelbuilder Mark
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Jason has had it 3 months per his post about receiving it, AND it looks like he has not been online since early March.
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Post Apocalypse Aeromax
Modelbuilder Mark replied to wrecker388's topic in Model Trucks: Big Rigs and Heavy Equipment
I would say that a truck would be a great idea in a post apoc world, pretty cool! -
um, yeah, good luck with that one. Is there another outlet to chose from, and if so, same results?
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Tamiya Merc SLR McLaren in pearl white!
Modelbuilder Mark replied to jaymcminn's topic in Model Cars
That looks great. -
It was VERY well deserved. It was a pleasure to see this in person.
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I am sure you are a little too far along in this project at this point, but here is the threadI was referring to earlier regarding wiring your own rims; http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=6659&hl=
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Ken's Fuzzy Fur
Modelbuilder Mark replied to CrazyGirl's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I have used this stuff for years and years, and depending on the project, will look really nice, or out of scale. For example, not so good in package trays, or seats, but fine for floorboard carpets in most situations. Some custom guys and lowrider guys do use it for seats and door panel trim etc, but it starts to look too out of scale there and would be better to use Embossing powder or similar for that. I have around 50 colors, not sure how many they made, but if you get a few shades of red, pink, black, blue, [red etc you can mix whatever color you need. Use is pretty simply, choose a paint color that is similar to the the color fuzz you plan on using, brush it on to a small(ish) area, (too large and the area will start to dry before you can get the fuzz on, and it will be blotchy), get an old sifter like flour sifter, and shake it over the wet paint. Some folks try to pat it down, but again, this will tend to make it blotchy. Once you have the area done, leave it set until the paint sets up enough that you can hold the part upside down and tap the side to release any fuzz that has not been attached to the paint. If you do this over an old paper plate, you can then reuse that which falls off VS throwing it all away. I would also say this, if you can avoid diong this in the same area you paint in, I would sugges soing so. The stuff is very fine, and creates it's own kind of dust that you wuold want to aviod getting into paints jobs. I have a seperate bottle of thinner I use for this as well, again, to keep the fuxx out of my paint and brushes. -
Thanks Pat, At some point I need to make up some decals, and have been reading the making decals thread. One of my upcoming projects may require more than a normal build for me. Also, I am surprised that with all of the 1:1 vehicles out there that are wrapped, there are not more scale trucks/vans etc with the same "look" of being wrapped.
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OK, I have been using the Micro-Sol by Microscale, and from what I am seeing here, that may be why I am not seeing the "wrinkle" and adhession that others talk about. May have to pick up the other brand. Despite my attention to the surface quality, some decals were just fighting me. I know that not all decals are created equal, and while I am not horrible at it, I just have a lot of respect for the folks that do LOTS of them on a project, and they turn out great.
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I consider one of my biggest weaknesses as a modeler to be getting decals to look real. Now, maybe I am doig something wrong, but here is what I do. First soak the decal for onyl a short period of time, trying not to soak out the glue. then I apply a little Solvaset by Micro Sol to the area the decal is going, then slide it on, then a little on top. On most flat surfaces, this sufices. BUT...if there is much curvature, or any area the decal needs to conform to, I have heard that Micro-Sol really helps, but so far, for most any project I have ever done, it does not seem to do much. (this stuff really just smells like vinager to me). I have heard many times the decal should wrinkle up, then settle down, but I have never seen it to that extreme. So, for those of you that apply large sections of decals, what solutions are you using to get them to REALLY settle down and look, well, real?
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John, it was a pleasure meeting you this weekend, and seeing your wonderful builds in person.
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37/38 Ford
Modelbuilder Mark replied to slammedi'am's topic in Model Trucks: Pickups, Vans, SUVs, Light Commercial
Very attractive. -
LOL, love it, very true. It may have been worth MUCH more to the winning buyer, he just got lucky enough to pay a bit more than the next guy was willing to.
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MPC 1980 Dodge Van
Modelbuilder Mark replied to Antikainen's topic in Model Trucks: Pickups, Vans, SUVs, Light Commercial
Nice results! -
I used to have a Testors Paint rack from a Michaels that was upgrading or moving, do not recall. Now, I have NO idea what they were originally for but my wife picked up the racks I use at a rummage sale. The spray cans and larger cans of automotive paint, in a large box under the rack. In this picture the racks are to the left and you can see the box with spray cans under that. ON the desk, to the right is the drawers I keep the smaller bottles, and the artists acrylics in. The organizers at the back of the desk hold tires/wheels, and small parts that have been sorted, deatail items, PE etc.. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/uploads/med_gallery_8985_809_396788.jpg
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tru, my wife had a package coming that per the USPS web site took 2 days to get from it's original location, to Phoenix. THEN, 4 days to get from the center to our house. go figure.
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"The Golden Diamond" Amt 49 Merc.
Modelbuilder Mark replied to Starliner Kustoms's topic in Model Cars
Very nice. -
Found a Chrome Straight 6
Modelbuilder Mark replied to Edsel-Dan's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Good looking motor, nice piece in a custom. -
I would be real interested in your choice of colors and layers of their application to get the colro you haev on those pipes. The color looks very realistic.
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Matt, your build looks fantasitc. I do think that your work is better than using the etched wheels tho. I would stick with the Aoshima wheels, or even look into using the existing hubs you have and wire the wheel. Somewhere here in the forums, there was a thread/how to that was done and I wold certaily say that your are up to the task. Fabulous build sir.