zenrat

I have one.in the stash. It scares me a little bit but I knew what I was getting and it was cheap. It will be built as a custom one day when I feel brave. www.thepartsbox.com will sell you a resin V12 flattie if the site is back up & running.

Why don't they just put a sticker on? I have some model master metaliser sealant which has a sticker proclaiming that it contains substances that have been deemed by the state of california to be carcenogenic. As i'm using it in the State of Victoria I figure i'm OK. It is nice though, just for once, to be able to feel smug because I can just go to the store and pick some up. Doesn't happen often in this hobby!.

Ray - I almost always only use White Knight primers from Bunnings. Grey, White or Red Oxide depending on what i'm painting. They were labelled as "Super Primer" but they have just re-badged them as something else and I can't remember what they called them. I'm pretty sure that they kept the formula the same though as they smell the same and the white at least goes on the same. These primers go on nicely from the can and sand well. I also favour the white Knight "Squirts" white undercoat between primer & colour which also goes on easilly and sands even better. Over these paints I have put acrylic & enamel colour coats with no problems (well, none caused by the paints reacting anyway!). While you are in Bunnings check out the White Knight Squirts coloured enamels as well - they work well if you have the patience to use enamels. They do these in both rattle cans and tins if you want to airbrush them on (I thin them with Tamiya enamel thinners although I will be trying out Don Yost's cheap lacquer thinners tip). Range of colours in the tins is limited though. HTH

Ditto that. If a subject doesn't move me I find it hard to build box stock or factory stock. I sonetimes find myself cutting stuff just for the sake of it and then sitting back & thinking hmmmmmm, why did I do that? And sometimes a screw up can force me in a different direction. I'm just stuffed the paint on what was an OOB Hairy Olds. As I don't want to strip it for a second time (it came started from evil-bay and needed a bath) i'm turning the blistered paint into a feature. And then sometimes even when I do all the research and planning I get halfway into a replica build and think "nah, i'll do it my way instead - it'll look better". Now, what was the question? Oh yeah, originality, should it count? Yes it should, but i'm not sure how you objectify it if you want it as a point scorer in contests. Of course, in my ideal world all contests use NNL type judging and the question is then irrelevent. When allocating my vote I will always give it to the wierd and the wacky rather than to the box stock.

This is from the Doyusha Nostalgia Heroes range. They are all designed to be motorised and so have far too shallow interior tubs. They are also all made to fit the same chassis. This leads to variations in scale despite the claim to be 1/24 (I also have a Nissan Sunny X1R which scales out at about 1/20). The engraving on the bodies however is excellent.

It's why i'm here. I only signed up because the Cannonball Run CBP moved here from the scale auto forum due to their strange decision to no longer have polls.

Buckets for a '49 Jant? My favourite period buckets have always been those in the AMT old mould '57 Chev. However, for a cross country jaunt a nice wide saggy bench would be ideal as it would allow you to shuffle your arse around and drive from whatever position was comfortable. Plus, there would be room for a pizza box or 2 between the driver & co-driver.

Thanks Greg.

Man that '55 looks nasty. I'm working on the theory that it's not a long enough run to have to worry about sleeping. The co-driver can snooze in their seat until needed at which time they'll bang down a handfull of diet pills and take over. Well it is the 60's after all...

"No seat belt - it's better to be thrown clear" seems to be true in some cases. Either balls of steel or no imagination - who knows. Maybe they didn't mature and remained in the teenage "indestructible" period for longer?

So we're not likely to find you cutting the tops of wheels off to get it even lower then? This thread asks for Pet Peeves. Not for RULES EVERYONE SHOULD BUILD TO (I was thumping the desk for emphasis between words there - you probably couldn't tell though). By replying are we not just letting others know what we don't like? I certainly am. I don't expect everyone to immediately start running wash down their panel gaps because I don't like it when they don't. However it's out there now that it bugs me. And while typing this i've realised what is the absolute worst thing that bugs me. The ultimate peeve if you like. the one thing that SHOULD be stopped despite what i've said above. It's when i've finished a build and cleaned it and polished it and dusted it and set up the photo gubbins and lights and taken pics and loaded them onto the computer and adjusted them and uploaded them to photobucket and then... ...spotted a glaring mistake/error/scratch/fingerprint/mould line that there is no way I should have missed. ARRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!

...so thisarvo I popped the bonnet to have a captains at the donk. Found one of the carbies had a leak... No Wuckers.

Good job. How did you join the uprights to the horizontal roof bars? It's done very neatly.

Commonly in use here in AUSTRALIA Greg. Is "hip" still in popular use in Phoenix? Groovy.

No wash in panel lines bugs me. Even if they are non-opening panels they still need a bit of thinned smoke washed in there. But then too dark wash in panel lines is just as bad. Also, centre parted dizzies, floating alternators (how hard is it to mould on a bracket kit makers?) and the weirdly spaced Revel put in the 5 window kit to avoid paying Chrysler royalties. I'm OK with extra thick plug wires though - they're just big fat racing leads...

WHy not ease the waiting period by starting another one?

I can ruin a paint job equally well using either mode of paint delivery... This is one I did to use up all my leftover rattle can dregs. Regarding Future (called One-Go down here), I have found that the shine fades over time with some builds developing a patchy appearance. No yellowing though.

Chassis itself isn't too bad actually. When I build it i'll be making a floor from 1mm sheet styrene which will have the added bonus of giving it a scale 1" lift.

Thanks for the history. A couple of of points to note with this kit - the axles are "open topped" which would be visible if you lift it significantly and it has no floor - there is a huge gap visible from below between the body sides and the interior tub. Having said that when I built in the early 80's that didn't bother me and I remembered it fondly enough to hunt one down.

Can't remember what box art this had but was moulded in red with 80's style rims.

Nice work guys. Here's where i'm at. I've cut the cab away from the back of the door backwards and then attached the bed directly to the cab. This removes the need to fill a join as the join is now the door opening gap. I've also built up the bed sides with styrene angle & rod as a foundation for filler which will be sanded to the same profile as the cab sides. Here's my version against a stock version to show how much length i've removed.

Who? Where?! Don't let them enter this... The more the merrier in my book. After all, there is only a finite number of cops chasing us and every extra entrant reduces the odds I get caught. Don't worry about correct engine colour Niko & Jim. Your engine shop repainted the block when they stripped it down for blueprinting & tuning...

Mmmmm, Hemi. Still 'only' 392 cubes though Niko Nice to have a bit of recent family history to be proud of Jim. My father designed parts of Royal Navy carriers back in the day. Me, I just stir sh#t. I've only ever seen pics of the boneyards and they are depressing on a number of levels. But imagine the goodies you could have libirated out of them for your Hot Rod in the 50's. I'm going with the windows because they could have been made and Roth was blowing bigger bubbles by then. Afterall, this is a bit of fun and not a serious rivet counting exercise.

Here you go. B29 Superfortress - look between the front upper turret and the streamlined radio antenna thingo - that's a bubble. There is also one just in front of the rear upper turret. IIRC they were used for gun aiming purposes in this case. The desert boneyards would have been littered with these things inthe early sixties.

I was thinking of the bubbles fitted to large multiengined aircrafdt for taking navigational observations with a sextant before the days of radionavigation. I'll try and find some pics. However, large bubbles were definately being blown for show cars then.