TedsModeling

Here's a photo of Chuck Ettchell's 1995 FC. He has 2 MSD Pro Mags and both are wired in red. Some teams used 2 colors to make it quicker to identify the mag during a rebuild. MSD has wiring diagrams on their Pro Mag site. http://www.msdpromag.com/ i posted a video on making and wiring these mags in the Tips & Tricks forum. I have a couple of videos you might like at http://www.youtube.c...ng?feature=mhee Uploaded with ImageShack.us

I posted some photos of my idea of heat-stained headers, for my In-n-Out Funny Car, in the Drag Racing forum. I used stainless steel tubing and heated it with a torch to get realistic coloration. Here is the video and comments are appreciated.

Here's a link to the heat-staining video. I'll also post this in the Tips & Tricks forum. Thanks for the comments.

Turned out really nice. You should be proud. I'd love to have a 1:1 like this. I asked earlier about the hood louvers and you gave me a link to Archer Transfers. I see they have different sizes to choose from, but even their smallest (15cm) seems too big. Which size did you use or did you cut them down to fit? Are you simulating a 6" louver or larger?

The smallest bender I could find is the Du Bro 785. It bends AL and CU from 3/32" to an 1/8". It isn't made to handle stiff SS, but I was careful and it worked. I'm trying to finish the engine plumbing of the funny car, but I'll get busy on completing the video. There isn't much left to do and it won't take long. I'll post a link here or in the Tips & Technique forum. I found companies that will bend really small tubing, but they want a minimum order or just plain lots of money. I'm still researching that end. Thanks for looking in, Goat.

I love the clear and concise explanation that accompanies the photos. It's like a Tips & Technique along with a documentary. A picture may be worth 1000 words, but your descriptions make it that much better. Thank you for sharing this build with us.

Thanks, Phantom. You just never know until you try. P.S. I might have another name or two for you shortly.

I wanted to get your feedback before I told you what I did. I've been experimenting, on and off , in my quest for realism. The reason they look so real is becuse they are. I used stainless steel (which they are in real life) and I applied heat into them (just like real life). I made a video of the process while I was making them. I'll have it out shortly, but I'd be glad to answer any questions in the meantime. Thanks for looking and for your comments, guys. Here's a shot of a few test pieces while I was working on them.

I need some opinions on these heat-stained headers.

Looks really nice, Wayne. I just found this thread - sorry for being late to the dance. I'm following this now. Whose engine are you using?

I've been researching the In-n-Out Pro Mod Corvettes. I love the '53 Vette shown here.

Thank you all for the remarks! I think you're all being too nice. I was expecting some constructive criticism (a little at a time - please -I'm fragile ). Micro - Thanks for the help. I already painted the seat polished aluminim and had to remove it due to other work on the seat. That's why I was asking about it. I was going to re-paint it black (because all of the current FCs are), but I'll go back to the aluminum. Is polished okay or should it be plain aluminum? Speaking of aluminum, does anybody know if the two sides of the cockpit (secured with dzus fasteners) were aluminun or something else around 1995? I don't know if I should paint them black, aluminum or polished aluminum or maybe finish them with carbon decals. The seat padding in the kit seat matches with what you described. You never know whether Revell is following the 1:1 or doing what is easy or maybe they already have a mold to use. I'll stick with my 'heat shrink tube' padding on the lower seat only. As for the clutch box, I'll leave it the way it is, since I don't know otherwise. Thanks again for looking and for the comments.

Thanks, Goat. I used 1/16" K&S #5100 aluminum tubing because it matched the kit wheelie bar OD. Thanks for the mag video feedback. I also made a video of the wheelie bars, if you want to see the rest of the parts and how it went together, it's here:

Thanks for the encouragement guys. I need it. Micro - I don't believe how many people on this site have been involved with the actual 1:1 cars we're reproducing. This is great. So far I don't have any carbon fiber planned because I couldn't see any in the photos I found. I'm guessing there might be some on the cockpit floor and/or around the seat???? I'd love to pick your brain for anything you can remember. What was the seat made of? Aluminum? It looks like it has small padded rolls on the bottom seat. I am going to use small diameter (1/16") heat shrink tubing, cut in half lenght ways, to simulate this. The texture and color are perfect.

I'm building an older funny car from 1995. It's the In-n-Out Burger funny car. I like In-n-Out burgers and I like drag racing, so I thought I'd show my appreciation. My goal is to add as much detail and realism as I can in this 1:25 scale. I'm using Revell's Mooneyes Funny Car kit (#7624 released in 1995). My researching hasn't turned up too many detailed photos of this particular car, in order to keep everything period correct. So I'm combining what I can find and what I think looks good. Let me know if you see something that's not correct for 1995. I've been going back and forth between the chassis and engine and haven't made a lot of progress on either because of it. I have more photos posted on Photobucket (look for the In-n-Out album) http://s1256.photobucket.com/user/TedsModeling/library/In-n-Out%20Burger%201995%20Funny%20Car?sort=3&page=1 I would appreciate your suggestions and comments. This is the inspiration (3 wheels off the ground is awesome) Wheelie bars are duplicates of the those supplied in the kit. The chassis needs the fuel cell, rear brake lines, fire extinguishers and more This detail shot of a funny car brake handle and spring inspired me So I had to do it, too. I used R&B rod ends and throttle springs along with Pro Tech nuts on the handle and a piece of small heat shrink tubing for the grip. I built up the base and made it functional. I guess I need to add a master cylinder now. I describe how I did this in the Photobucket 'Working Brake Handle' album. The engine is partly finished and partly mocked up. Note the functional butterflies. More to come. Another view of the engine and electronics

Thanks, Dragline. We 'old dogs' are still learning from everyone else and putting our 2-cents in. It goes full circle and I'm thankful for it.

Love the nut detail on the idler pulley bracket. Great build going on! I also admire the extra work on the suspension.

I'm in Naples, too. Since I started this thread, I guess I better step up to the plate. We should at least get an initial meeting together and discuss whether it's worthwhile. Mike - if you have a list of people and their locations, maybe you could tell us what's a midway point between us all.

Thanks for the feedback, guys. I'm hunbled that you like it. There are so many talented people here!

I ordered a Pro Mag 44 magneto from an online company and gave up waiting after 5 months. I decided to build my own and I think this turns out better than what I was waiting for. Another video titled "Ignition Wiring for a Top Fuel or Funny Car Engine with Pro Tech parts" starts where this one ends. The end of this video has several photos of the completed MSD mags and components in place. Feel free to comment.

I posted this here originally because it was made for (and involved a) funny car, but I moved it to the Tips, Tricks and Tutorial forum.

I'm with Romell R - you've gone this far for realism - blue the headers.

Great job. I can't see louvers on the early pictures of the hood, but I can on a later photo. We're these part of the kit or added?

Thanks, Jim. It's a 4-hour drive from Naples, but we go past Ocala (and Garlits' Museum) several times a year. I'll see if we can arrange a trip to be there on one of your Saturdays. What time do you start?

I drove passt this location, to see how the construcion is coming along, and to my surprise it was open. They have a decent selection of car models plus lots of tools and building materials. Much better than the only other hobby shop in town. Their prices were pretty good, too. Much better than I would have thought. They have a web site, but it only shows photos of the store: sunnyhobbies.com