TedsModeling

Really awesome, Steve. It's interesting that you put the 90 degree AN fittings in before the hose. Do you find it easier to make the connections this way instead of having both ends of the hose fitted with AN fittings to start with?

Dave - you're in a position that very few of us are. You actually work on race cars and know all about the products and technology and your excellent model detail reflects that. I will probably never see a Mark Williams 11" rear end in person, but I know from what's available to us, the TDR reproduction is a thing of beauty. This is a photo of a 1/8 scale TDR rear end with the disc brake and hard mount options. Their turbo chargers show the turbine veins, bolt holes are provided in heads, header flanges, pulleys and many other parts, their 4bbl Holly is a thing of beauty for 1/16 scale. There are many quality resin products available, but most don't have nearly the detail of TDR items. Are any of these products (especially from the kit manufacturers) true to life? I doubt it. But can I tell the difference? I just want as much detail in the parts I can get to make it look realistic to me. TDR and a few resin guys do it.

Dave - I'll find out, but I believe the stock SBC is just that - stock. I don't know where the raised port came in. I'm sorry if it was me that confused the issue. You mentioned the different degree valves and I wasn't sure where that fit in with the stock TDR engine. Their BBC engine also starts out as stock and options are available to make it completely stock (single 4bbl, stock intake manifold and equal flow headers) to something more race ready (blown, dual turbos, tunnel ram dual quads, different headers). These 3D items are designed off of actual blue prints for sizing. Their BBC 'performance heads', I've been told are only different from the stock heads as I described earlier. I need to look into these some more. So we don't get off track and I'm looking for the wrong info, what is it you need to know and I'll get answers?

Joe - I'm glad you said that because I figured that's exactly what I'd do. I don't think I'll have working steering anyway, so you wouldn't be able to tell if it's off. I'm experimenting with fishmouthing, but I like your technique. As long as we're discussing chassis building, if Thumper is here, I'm wondering why his PDF chassis tutorial ends so abruptly. Did I get the short version? If I remember correctly (and I'm the guy who can't remember what I had for breakfast) he was discussing the rear chassis construction and then it stops. I'm with everybody else - this is a great thread?

Scott - excellent suspension build and descriptions. My mind is spinning with ideas. As far as my question about the front geometry, it was open to one and all, as I'm sure everyone has their own procedure. I like your description above about setting up the car and adding the wheel to determine the spindle location. That makes sense. What determines the angle between the top and bottom mounts which gives you the caster? I remember the old FED rails had quite a caster and when turning, the front wheels almost looked like they were on a 45 degree angle. This thread should almost be in Tips, Tricks and Tutorials. Maybe even 'stickied' after that - this is going to be great.

The only SBC heads TDR offers is the standard head, with the engine pack, and the standard head with uber detail (more for diorama use). I was informed by TDR that the optional Symetric Port heads for the BBC are only different in the location of the intake ports and the location of the 'pre-drilled' bolt holes. Once the head is glued to the block, you don't see these differences. It seems like if you want the TDR SBC or BBC induction to match the heads, you'd have to purchase the TDR engine that includes the heads and then you'd know it would all fit together. Otherwise it's a matter of making it fit. Mark Johnson said he'll be issuing a SBC at some point down the road. He already has a BBC available.

Wow, Joe, I had no idea, based on the quality of your chassis, that it was your first! Amazing. I sure need this thread and I am thankful it's here. I have a question on the front suspension mounts (where attached to the upper and lower frame rails). How do you determine the vertical spacing and the angle between them?

Great job, Kevin. What did you use for the writing on the windshield?

Thanks for covering the basics. I always appreciate your insight and how you relay that info to us, Dave. I suppose for model building we have to deal with what we get in kits and/or aftermarket (except for a few here that have the ability to scratch build their components) and we'll only have to be concerned when we mix-match our parts - like Brodie is doing here. As long as we're discussing why these parts don't work, as Dave did, we're keeping in line with this thread, but I don't want to take away from this thread by getting away from the topic. I'll leave it up to others, if they want to delve further into this and start a new thread.

Joe - going back to the enclosed container issue and the wheel tubs/decals, would it be safe to store a model (or parts) during a build in a dehumidifier? Especially one with a fan and adjustable heat. You could always leave the fan running and I suppose low heat wouldn't hurt anything either. Just a thought because I've been thinking about one for several months for curing paint, but I never thought of it for general storage. I'd appreciate everybody's opinions.

They were actually anxious to look into it. They're now interested in making a Facebook page in order to get this kind of feedback, as well as announce new and upcoming items. Dave - for my edification, If I was going to my local speedshop to buy a BBC manifold, would I have to tell them it's 18 or 23 degrees? What BBC engines would each be found on?

Richard - they say once you go big, you never go back. I think that's how it goes!

Dave - I sent your comment and suggestion to TDR for review. I'll reply back here when I hear something.

TDR tells me this is the strongest material. The white material is really thin. Thanks for the tips - I'll have to try it out. You have to admit they look like the real thing - great job!

I was wondering how the TDR engine options would work with kit blocks. I suppose it also depends on the kit manufacturer, as they differ a little in scale from one to another. This should be a good build and I'm following.

Tim - Looks really nice. Are those the wheels from the kit? How about some engine and interior pics?

Tony - you're really cranking out some terrific stuff (BBC and SBC along with their components) and this is just as excellent. I need an Arden head version for a build coming up. I'm carrying your other engines and can't wait for this one, too.

David - I had a '68 Camaro that lasted many years and took me many miles. This looks exactly like it should. The engine compartment looks like mine did. I don't see a license plate, so I don't know what state it's supposed to be in, but that windshield inspection sticker even looks like one I had. What a great build and thanks for sharing.

Joe - I stock the TDR u-joints and have played with them a little. I know you have to make the end caps, but Is there a trick to getting the pieces put together without breaking them? I was afraid I was going to break something and stopped fussing with it. Thanks for a great build!

Andy - TDR would make it hollow already. We wouldn't be able to afford it if it was solid. I've emailed TDR to see if they might change their minds, but if Scott is working on one, we should go with that.

Steve - looks as busy and crowded in that interior as the real thing. Fantastic job!

Anybody know why they put in the aluminum spacers at the middle? They don't look adjustable, yet they're removable. Are they for stiffening?

Dave - I guess I missed it initially, but I like your braid-threading jig. I'm wondering why you have to glue the fitting. It seems like it would take quite awhile to plumb an engine - especially using white glue. Can you hold the fitting in place and thread through it? What about slicing a small piece of tube (plastic or metal) with an ID to fit the OD of your fitting and just drop the fitting into it. You'd also need a different size hole for each size of braid. Do you have these drilled in a line, on a single piece of stock? Great idea.

I'll have them on YouTube tomorrow. My channel is at: https://www.youtube.com/user/TedsModeling?feature=mhee

We're used to a little wind and rain - I'll be there.