TedsModeling

I thought about that, too. I could probably scribe tread into a slick, but the worst part is the straight side. A street tire would have a rounded edge and even a little bulge in the sidewall. Plus I don't know if I could cut the tread symmetrical enough to pull it off.

This was one fast build. I blinked and missed the whole thing. Really turned out nice. Love seeing the Pro Mag sticking out of the hood. Whose decals did you use for the 'MSD'? Nice build indeed!!

I'm getting ready to start a 1/16 fenderless '34 Ford Coupe hot rod and I need large rear tires with tread. Here's a picture of a TDR tire that would be perfect, except I have to use his wheels and make an adapter for a 9" Ford rearend. This is 14" wide and from a dirt track car, but I haven't seen any in 1/16. Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.

Wow - Just found this build. Great job and thanks for explaining your techniques. Good photo job, too. I'm following this one.

Here is a photo of the Pro Tech 5-point harness and a photo of a real harness. I shined up one of the cast pieces to see how it looks. I could definitely give it more and smooth it out. This is sure better than a flat photo etched piece. I think the 3D texture makes it more realistic. The belt material doesn't wind through the buckles. The pieces are glued to the belts. See the photo in the above post for the finished look. I haven't seen the Min of Maryland harness. I didn't even know they made 1/16 scale items. I'll be anxious to see it. This photo courtesy of Dave Ryberg Look massive this piece looks. Uploaded with ImageShack.us

I'm opening the doors to my online store that specializes in quality 1/16 and larger scale parts. I have a 'tech' page to reference 1:1 sizes of nuts, bolts, braided lines, hard lines, hoses and fittings to three different scales. The parts descriptions even refer to 1:1 equal sizes. I'm offering $5 off all of the Flash Point bodies I stock through the month of June. Get a 10% discount coupon when purchasing over $50. I combine shipping, with discounts, to provide you with a realistic cost. Multiple purchases of the same item (except bodies and 'bundles') ship free. I stock many TDR Innovations' products. No need to wait 3-4 weeks for your detailed parts. I have deliveries every other week. If you don't see what you want, ask me - it might be coming in. I'm loading up on 1/16 scale stuff now and will be adding 1/8 and 1/12 scales as I can afford and as the need grows. Some of the shelves are bare, but I'm getting inventory as fast as I can. I'm featuring Pro Tech, Micro Nitro, Flash Point Motorsports, RR Speed, TDR Innovations, Race Motor Replicas and some of my own parts. Many more items are planned and will be added when available. See the current 'bundle' packages where you can pick up related parts and save money. More are being formed now. Visit me at http://www.tedsmodel...arketplace.com/ and let me know what I'm missing. PM me here or email me at tedsmodeling@gmail.com

Those shots from underneath the body really give us the perspective you have and show exactly how it fits and why. Great!

cricket, cricket. Anything new?

Having had my chance to work with Tim (TDR) and give him my ideas, he's really open to anything you want. As Bart was saying, Tim needs real world dimensions and photos to make something. He's true to scale and won't just throw something out there - I have to commend him for this. He won't make something without dimensions because he needs the info to put into the computer. Then he just presses a few buttons and whamo-slamo a new part. That's why his stuff is so realistic - because it's a scale version of the real thing.

Excellent engine plumbing! Really looks nice. What is the single line on the left side of the injectors that loops up to the top edge? The header flange around the header bolts looks a little rusty. How did you get such a light, blended-in effect?

Rom - you must have 4 arms and hands. I can't possibly juggle as many things at one time as you can. Between your modeling and graphic arts endeavors, you can't be a real human being. Looking good once again! And I agree about the front end. Glad you're taking it down a notch. It looked like too much body above the front wheel wells. What brand of putty are you using? What's this engine going to be? Turbo maybe?

Excellent work, Joe. I can't wait to see the intake routing from the turbos. Headers are spot-on and the exit through the body is great. Wayne - thanks for the photos. We can all benefit from these.

Just saw this. I love the Mack B-60's series. I've been wanting to build one of the AITM kits for quite some time. One day...

Someone bought all 10 I had in stock. I'll have more tomorrow or Friday and can ship them out Monday. Sorry for the unforeseen stock issue.

I love hot rods and street rods. This is looking great. Looking forward to an update.

Pro Tech makes a nice 5-point harness and one of the easiest to work with. It includes photo etched hardware and belt material that can be colored. I carry all of Pro Tech's large scale items at my 1/16 scale store: http://www.tedsmodel...arketplace.com/

For the record, I'm stocking TDR products and he offers two 7" Nitrous kits (single and dual valves at the bottle). No more long waiting for your products from overseas and my shipping is cheaper. TDR also has a Nitrous hardware kit to use with someone else's bottles. I'm specializing in 1/16 scale and larger and I'm at http://www.tedsmodel...arketplace.com/

Awesome build. I'd sure like to see more hot rods and street rods being built. This had to be 1/8 scale. The wear marks along the trunk and radiator shell are too much. Excellent job. If the engine had some dirt and oil on it, I'd swear it was a real car.

Joe - Those headers are really nice looking. Great work on the bends. I can't to see how you tie in the turbo chargers. For the weld beads you mentioned, Archer makes transfers you may like. They go on like decals, but are 3D. They're at: http://www.archertransfers.com/SurfaceDetailsMain.html Look about half way down the page to WELD BEADS and FOUNDRY CASTING SYMBOLS Different types of welds and sizes are listed. If a 1:1 weld bead is about 1/4" wide, their .015" size would be real close for 1/16 scale. The .025" weld bead would be closer to a 1:1 size of 3/8". They have videos on applying the transfers, too. Keep up the great work.

Kane - I couldn't have paid for a better question. I'm glad you asked! The small diameter wiring is part of Pro Tech's Small Detail Wire and you can find it along with other gauge wires, braided lines, hard lines and hoses at my new online store. I specialize in 1/16 scale and larger, but many of the detailing items can be used at any scale. I have some tables on the site that show 1:1 sizes in three different scales (1/16, 1/12 and 1/8). I'm just opening the store and in the middle of stocking the shelves, so bare with me while it's expanding. The store is at http://www.tedsmodel...arketplace.com/ I have a video of the wiring you see on this FC.

Thanks for the understanding, guys. It's not like you're lacking builds to admire and drool over in the meantime. Dave - I appreciate all of the photos you've provided to us all. They certainly have added to my research for this particular car.

Gold or red - a big honk'n blower sticking up in your face is pretty 'bad ass'.

Jim - Sweet looking front wheels. What's planned for the rear? Rom - Maybe I missed it, where are the main bearings? What are you using for gasket material and whose oil will fill the pan? Talk about REALISTIC!! On a serious note, what's planned for the induction? Full nitrous or something else?

Hey, Dave and Chris. Thanks for remembering me and checking in. I've had family issues on-and-off for awhile including trips out of town and haven't had much time to devote to this build. I'm working on the engine plumbing and will get an update out next week. As the Terminator said, "I'll be back".

You could have lied...