TedsModeling

Noname - How did you make the original headlight trims look pitted? At least they look that way in the photos - nice...

Great coverage, Dave. These photos and those you shared previously are invaluable for the information they give everybody. We can't all be there to see these cars up close and personal. Unless you buy us tickets so we can help you with the pain of doing it all. Thanks again, Dave.

Nick - you didn't say whether you were going with 8 or 16 injectors. I'm for being realistic, so my 2-cents says go with what it would be in real life. If you're following a 1:1 car, do what it has.

This intake looks much better - good decision to do it again. I like the jack stands. Did you make them?

I'm a site moderator for an online gaming community and I know what Rom has on his plate. It sounds like there is more going on behind the scenes we don't know about. A moderator has the responsibility of keeping the peace on that site. A few words to the disruptive person at first, then a warning or two and then a ban. Forums are here, as Thumper, Inerceptor and ProStreet have said, to share work, ideas and techniques. Constructive criticism is expected and wanted in order for us to grow. Roadkill made his feelings known and I'm sure Rom looked at his work twice because of it. I would have. The system works. Let's get back to it.

Rom - I'm waiting for the smoothed out version you mentioned above. Are you doing it with putty? I don't think I read why you're using brass and not plastic. With your labor on this, it'd be less expensive to buy a resin engine. But don't let me take the fun away from you!

I have enough trouble with plastic - I can't imagine brass. Gotta give you credit for taking this on, Rom. I know you like challenges! Can't wait for you to show the skeptics how it's done.

Dave - I need to drive out there and help you suffer. You poor guy. Thanks for the extra photos. There are things I'm finding that I didn't even know existed. I'd like to add something to the list of details to research. I'm curious where the fire extinguisher outlets are located. I see the two bottles are connected together and then the outlet lines go somewhere. I would suppose a few cover the engine and a few cover the cockpit.

Tyrone - I pulled out the dictionary but can't find adjectives that haven't already been used, so I'll just say SWEEEEEET. That engine is killer. I searched for the poor departed Mustang thread and can't find it. I'd love to look over that one, too.

I'd love to see more. Put them on Photobucket for all to see and/or email at tedsmodeling@gmail.com. Thanks for the investigative work. It must have been awful to do it! This is stuff you just can't find researching online - thanks again.

Thanks, Jerry. GoatGuy Dave just posted lots of 1989 funny car photos in the 1:1 Reference forum. Two close ups show the routing between the remote filters and the pump to match the kit instructions. So much for the author's 'correction' drawing. Bill - MicroMark has a couple of tools made to hold stock with a means to cut the same length repeatedly. Check out # 84388 and # 84515. I use the latter. You can also find surgical blades on eBay that are the same size as a #11 xacto blade, except they're much sharper and a touch longer. Excellent work once again. I watch my email for notices of updates.

You're really moving on this project, considering you started posting less than 2 weeks ago. It's nice to see your 'rough' work turn into finished work. I can appreciate the effort and like to watch the progress you're capturing. Also like the new camera.

There's some really excellent stuff there - thanks a million, Dave. I've been wanting to see areas of funny cars like this forever. Especially this period. I'm amazed to see a barrel valve on each side of the injector. I also have my oil plumbing answer I posted in the CA Charger thread. Two of your photos definitely show the routing to be like the kit directions show (at least between the remote filters and the pump).

Thanks for the explanation, Jerry. I found the picture below on Milodon. Is this what you described with the line to the sump? I found another Milodon pump on their site that looked more like what the kit has. It has two ports in the front and one in the rear, exactly like the part shown in the kit instruction detail below. I'm not trying to beat a dead horse here, but trying to get the correct info on oil plumbing for this Charger kit (as well as other period correct dragsters). The previous drawing, in the post above, was supposed to correct the kit instructions because the author felt the oil flow was going 2 directions at the same time. I'm assuming he's referring to the lines to/from the remote filters. Terry - I agree that the arrows seem to be reversed, if the plumbing is correct. I would think the pump would draw from the pan, not dump into the pan. Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Just catching up on this. Give me a second to pick up my jaw. What a fantastic job and thanks for the wheel tutorial - I hate those thick plastic spokes in the kit (at any scale). I love the linkage and fuel fittings at the injector. Does the T handle in the cockpit go to a fuel cutoff valve? Why did you choose brass bolts/nuts at the front suspension? Last question - The valve covers look high enough to be a nailhead, but the exhausts look more like a SBC. What is it and who makes it? As Steven Tyler would say on American Idol, "It's a beautiful thing, man".

What's not to love about a Pro Mod Willys? Good luck with this build and welcome back to modeling. You've got all the right stuff to start with and I'm sure the experts here will help when you want it. I'll be following, too.

Albert, You didn't mention the scale. The best one is made by TDR Innovations. The finish and detail is amazing. It's made in a modular fashion so that you can select how many gears you want. The front section is a must, then you add middle sections to make up a 2, 3 or 4 speed transmission, and then the reversing section if you want reverse. Shapeways makes them to order, which means a few weeks waiting time. In another 2 weeks, I'm launching a 1/16 scale (and up) online store and I'll be stocking the TDR Lenco (and other TDR parts) - so no waiting. PM me and I'll send more info.

GoatGuy mentioned I had a bad link to the Photobucket albums. I changed it in the original post above and here it is: http://s1256.photobucket.com/profile/TedsModeling Thanks, Goat. I commented the brake lever photos and will add comments to new uploaded photos from here on. I'm currently plumbing the fuel and oil lines now and will have an update soon. Thanks, all.

All of these look fantastic. I'd like to know what is scratch built and whose parts you used. Maybe from here on, a quick list could be added to the photos. Let's give credit to the guys who make such wonderful addons as well as a pat on your own back, too.

Jim and/or Jerry - I have a question on the oil distribution system. An engine detailing article in a scale model magazine (June 2000) stated that the Revell 1/16 kits had the oil system wrong. The author provided this diagram instead. I can't find anyting online for reference. How was the oil plumbed on this 1:1 engine? Thanks in advance. Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Slixx decals always lists the color of the cars they provide decals for. They show the '33 and '40s Willys to be either: Metro Paints 'N7 Red' or Realistic Paints #1012 Red. I searched for both, but didn't find much. The results took me back to Slixx and other business related info. I found two colors on eBay, but not yours. I found this site that lists lots of vehicles' factory-painted Matador Red (as Lone Wolf added). http://paintref.com/...i?color=Matador Red&tditzler=5824&rows=50. They even give a sample color next to each one. Maybe you could find an auto store that has a matching touch-up paint for a particular car.

Clay - How do you get your technical info on a particular chassis builder (R2B2)? Do you have access to their facility or maybe one of their cars in the pits or something? Looking at what's available in magazines or on TV isn't enough. You show lots of photos at the start of this thread. Are they of one of the R2B2 cars and how do you obtain them?

Mike - Great info there. Awhile back I printed out a few that I will use in an upcoming video and didn't remember who to give credit to. Now I know. Thanks.

Goat guy - I'm going to use really tiny sensors, of course! jk It's going to be a job to drill into these, for the sensors. I'll have to make a larger 'jig' to center the bit and use lots of lube. Thanks for keeping track of me and for your comments.

Thank you Doc and Charlie. Much appreciated.