TedsModeling

I really like it, Rich. Looks like a Gasser for sure! And I like the fact you're making your own version of it. Are you going to install brake lines (braided lines to the calipers, hard line and T fittings to the rear)? Are those the kit gauges? Whose harness did you use

I like the detail of the supporting brace for the turbo/header assembly - well executed. How did you get such a centered and straight hole in the end of the bullhorn?

Okay, I just heard from Jim. It seems he has a problem with his web site and didn't know it. Thanks for bringing this to our attention, Louie.

Just wanted to put my two-cents in - AWESOME BUILD and attention to detail.

I've talked to him a few times in the last couple of weeks. Jim had knee surgery and is limited to the time he can spend in the shop. That time is increasing every week, but only up to 12 hours right now. He's getting an order out for me and apologized how long it's taking. He's definitely around, still working and still in business. His web site was missing a few images and links recently, but at least it was up. I'll find out more and report back. His Facebook page is still there.

Glad to see you back on this, Dave. Since you're following actual photos of the real car, this has to be an accurate build. I like the fact that you show the photos along with your progress for clarity.

Chris - You're spot-on with the scale equivalent sizes. Most people look at the OD of a scale braided line and equate it with the size of the line they need. They don't realize that the 1:1 braided line size has to include the metal jacket (nominal ID) over the rubber line (nominal ID). So a 3/8" braided line at 1/16 scale isn't .023, but .035 (as you show it). This means instead of using Pro Tech's .025 braided line, you would use their .035 line and fittings. I also show similar sizing tables at my web site. You hit the nail on the head with the hex nuts & bolts, too. Again, most people think if they measure across the flats of a scale head or nut they get the size they need. The 1:1 size bolt (5/16" for instance) isn't going to equal that across the flats, because 5/16" represents the shaft size, not the head size. The head and nut sizes are larger. Great job!

Joe - Archer makes dry transfers of welds in many sizes. They not only look realistic, but might be easier to paint separately.

I Love hot rods and I love the overall look. Love the steering wheel and the look of real leather. Which headlights did you use? Let's see the undercarriage!

Thanks, Bill. I have to try it now. Can't wait. I think I even have one in my spare electrical parts. Mine is a variable speed, but the slowest is 5000 RPM. I don't see where they make one that goes any slower.

Peter - Are you doing any body mods or is the body pretty much done? Also, what is the material you used for the firewall? Bill - I've always searched for a Dremel speed control and wondered why they don't make one. Even at its slowest speed the thing is whirling too fast. Is your dimmer switch motor rated? I'd be afraid of burning up my Dremel. A light dimmer is made for incandescent bulbs and will reduce the voltage while the motor is made to run on full voltage. Does it start at full speed and then you reduce it? This might be better for the motor. How hot does your Dremel get when 'dimmed'? I might try a ceiling fan speed control. I wonder if they make one with full-range control vs. speed steps. I might have to pull one out of my wall and try it out!

Here's some photos of a jig Exoto uses to build their die cast cars. This is a 1/18 scale 1954 XS Jaguar D-Type 'Short Nose'. Here is the finished product.

Wow, what a beautiful build, Steve. One of the best detailed, cleanest engines I've seen. I can't find a flaw, ragged edge or mis-paint in any of the closeups. I can't see how the seat turned out. Your last shots showed blue 'pads'. Did you cover these or paint them? I forgot the name of the material you make your parts out of, but you absolutely need to make a tutorial of your process. Many of us would benefit from it.

Joe - great project idea. Love to watch the progress on this one.

'55 Chevy Pro Mod - Super sweet subject matter and project. I'm really watching this as I have a similar build in the planning stage. This will speed up my research for sure! I don't know how you can keep up this pace, Tyrone. I've barely finished reading your last thread and here's another one. You must have a ton of Cola and coffee on hand and then occasionally your wife slips some food under the door.

We all love Charlie's parts and now it's even easier and faster than ever to get them. I am currently stocking Pro Tech's complete line of 1/25 and 1/16 scale parts. Charlie has allowed me to be the only online retailer to cover all of his inventory. Have you seen his latest release? A 1/25 scale Drag Racing Parachute Kit. How is this different? It's not your one-piece paint-it item. It has a resin core over which you apply the included material and straps. This has to be the most realistic chute out there. Look for his 1/25 scale items in the left column of my home page under '1/25 SCALE' and the 1/16 scale items are scattered through the many '1/16 SCALE' sections. You can also search just for Pro Tech items by scale under the category 'SHOP BY MANUFACTURER'. I normally ship the day after you order. PM or email me with any questions. Here is a direct link: http://tedsmodelingmarketplace.com/

Wow, Dave - off to another great start. I sure appreciate the ability you guys have of turning aluminum stock into a finely detailed piece. That goes for a clump of resin, too. Looking forward to this engine build.

I'm researching for a 55 Chevy Pro Sportsman I'll be building next. I found chassis plans online that I resized to get my scale 115" wheelbase. I may have a crossbrace missing or incorrect, but like the others above, I want it as close as possible. The people who would see it (friends, family, club members) wouldn't know anyway. By the time the chassis is complete, the body installed, engine plumbed and cockpit detailed, some minor missing details would probably be lost or covered up. I've researched the body and engine almost as much as the chassis, but the chassis is an important item to get close to correct. Why are you asking, Dave?

C'mon Joe, with all of that information at hand, how am I going to give the excuse that I didn't know any better? What a load of information there! I go to their site and even Liked them on Facebook, but I haven't seen that many photos at a time. Thanks, Joe

This thread was really smoking. What happened? You guys get burned out? After reading all of the techniques described, I feel like my head is STILL spinning. What a wealth of information here!

If this is going to be a newer rod build, I agree with Lee to box the frame rails for strength. If it's going to be a older style rod build, they didn't box the rails, but you could glue a piece of thin styrene sheet to the flat side of them for added strength. Then drill the holes.

Terry - I ran out to look at my model collection because I thought I had a early Corvette with a removable top. It turns out that they're a '55 Corvette (AMT #683/12) and a '53 Corvette (Revekk 85-2164. There might be other kits with a top closer to your '62.

I'm not familiar with chemiwood. Is it similar to Renshape? Is it offered in various densities? Do you carve out your items? I like the 'cast metal' look of your chemiwood parts. Is that part of the product texture or your paint?

Terry - that 1:1 photo is a great look to go for. Does your kit have the removable hardtop or do you have to make one?

His last post here was in August and his last post of this same build on another forum was April. I hope he and his family are well and he's just too busy to continue with this.