TedsModeling

I love to see those reference photos in the background. Did you have a set of plans for the chassis or did you work off of photos and on-site observations?

Yes, good to see you back. Is this car going to have the functional engine with rotating parts?

An idea I've used in other areas to find where the hole in the jamb needs to be the first time - a tiny dot of black paint (or almost anything that doesn't dry immediately) on the end of the pin and close the latch. This will leave a 'bullseye' on the jamb. I like the heat-stained suspension parts.

Dave - You're right that maybe only a few of the entire forum have access to the actual cars, especially this close. At the risk of sounding greedy, how about some front suspension shots? Thanks for keeping us informed so that we can bring that realism to the scale world.

Yep, truly magnificent, Dave.

Thanks guys. Joseph - you qualified your tires as 'standard kit tires'. What about resin tires?

I've been trying to find out the best (or most widely used) process of applying decals to tires so that they last and don't 'silver skin'. I'd like to get feedback from the members on their way of applying tire decals.

Thanks for the detailed info Dale and Dave. Here is a better shot of the 'block-saver' plate. Looks like 8 bolts are fastening it to the chassis and according to what Dave said, it looks like this car would have the block saver plate AND a firewall - not having the firewall take the place of it. Is this correct? Dave - What is that solenoid at the bottom of the chassis for? Fire suppression? Looking at the line routing, It would appear to be brakes, but a solenoid is either on or off, not incremental.

Great reference links for adding accurate detail - thanks Dave. I never noticed the chassis bolting to the rear engine plate. Is it normal for this class and how about other classes?

SUPERB - what else is there to say!

Looks really intricate and detailed, Darryl - just how I like it. My hat's off to you for using brass in place of styrene. Too bad paint will cover it all up and nobody can appreciate it.

I don't believe how fast you whipped that out!

That chassis looks really clean, Mike. I can't tell if you fish-mouth the joints or not. Are you working off a set of plans or your own design?

This is one nice looking body. It's also available in 1/25 scale for about 1/3 the price of the 1/16 scale version. I stock a couple and will order more as needed. Henry did his homework on this one.

Until there's a way to direct download a PDF file, PM me with your email address and which scale wire wheel you have. I'll send the instructions to you. Once you see the directions, if you have any questions, email me at TedsModeling@gmail.com.

Love the concept here and a great twist, too. Looking really nice, Kerry!

With the help of Bob Spedding, I have the wire wheel instructions complete (in a PDF file). I'll send it to those who bought them from me, but what's the best way to provide a download for the members here?

Top notch, Tyrone. The intricacy of the cage and chassis is just beautifully masterminded and executed. The work around the firewall alone is really difficult and you make it look so easy.There are so many individual pieces and bends in the completed chassis that it boggles my mind and results in pure artistry.

Yes, the pennies add up, depending on how many people click on the ads. I don't even see them, as many people don't, so I can't click if I wanted to. I find the vast majority of the people ignore the ads. How many times have you watched a YouTube video and chose to end the ad after the initial time period? That doesn't make money for anyone either. Maybe we should all go to the ads and then close the page. Of course, Gregg can't say to do that or he get's sued. My vote is for donations.

My experience with ads like these is they don't pay unless you click on them. And then you only get pennies for it.

I belong to a gaming forum where the members donate what they want, when they want. There's a sense of 'helping' and 'brotherhood' among them. We're informed from time to time how the money issue is. If the coffers start getting low, people are inclined to pitch in again. This could be every two years or so. Sort of like watching public TV (no ads) and donating.

I'm with you, Bruce. I firmly believe in the correct scale for items. I thought I was being too 'detailed', so it's good to hear others feel the same way. When I started modeling in the '60s, the two-body door cutting was the norm. I would bet most of the builders today never heard of it. Maybe it was the kit manufacturers who came up with the idea to sell more of them! Do you cut the doors on body A outside of the lines and then cut the doors on body B inside the lines? Then, cut and file the doors and body B so that they fit tightly? Maybe you should post a how-to thread on it.

I agree with everyone that the video needs to be concise. I have a channel also, showing how-to's, and each video is getting shorter and quicker to the point. For the new videoographers(?), look it at like a science project. State the objective first, show the steps to reach the objective and then summarize it. Don't waste time giving part numbers or web addresses because you can edit the video within YouTube to display those items in text on the screen, just where you mention it. I love to see each person's 'secret' tips on how they do something to make it quicker or easier to build their models.

Excellent job, Bruce. Having built real streetrods, I can appreciate the final look of the car. Some of the pics look like the real thing. The key on the roof is the cherry on the sundae. We would have liked to follow this build here, to learn some of your techniques. Attention to detail is outstanding. Did you have a 1:1 car to follow or maybe some photos? I'm going to have to try that yellow on yellow base. Did you use a gray or white primer? Did I say I love streetrods? And yours is really nice.

I like the concept, John. I'm close to you in Naples and have seen these on the road. Too bad you couldn't have placed the body on the hood of Trooper car for your photos!