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I try to enjoy F1, I really do. But all this blah blah blah, all the billions of $$ spent, and in the long run the races are boring as hell. I guess it's not about racing, it's about the money. Always is. And it always spoils the part I enjoy best. Watch the SCCA runoffs sometime, better racing than a whole season of F1

I'm finally rolling towards completing this kit after finishing a trio of review models. I painted it Cobra Colors Windveil Blue; not a Shelby color, I've seen several Saleens in this color and I had gotten the color based on how good the Mustangs looked in this shade (except on a CV that had a tan top... ). To me they look best in the tamer colors. Tonight I hope to have the black trim painted and the white stripes applied.

You really can't go very wrong with metalizer shades of aluminum; either Testors or Alclad work well. I also am very fond of Krylon 1403 dull aluminum (not easy to find, though Ace Hardware is where I usually find it); it's amazing stuff for coming from a spray can. It sprays in ultra-thin coats. You don't have to break out the airbrush if you don't want! I don't normally like Krylon paints for models, but this stuff is great. And as CAL mentions, use a black wash to bring out the depth/dimension of aluminum parts. Metalizers are easy to use. Once you get accustomed to them, you'll want more shades to replicate other metals.

Oh it's real all right. As to what scale it is, well...it was kind of obvious to me. But it's still fun to read what other people see and don't see

I should have included a link to my ultra-simple tutorial on decanting Tamiya sprays. I read the other one and it also made my head hurt They take a simple task and make it sound ridiculously overcomplicated. I stir my paint immediately with some thinner. So what if it boils a bit? Don't fill the container, and don't cap it! It doesn't bite. You shouldn't need that much paint to begin with. Wait at least an hour? ME? You have got to be freakin' kidding Decanting Spray Paint Tutorial Since that tutorial I've found straws that fit tightly over the Tamiya nozzle, no Fun-Tack required, so a simple task is even simpler. I've done this routine hundreds of times now. I'm addicted to spraying Tamiya (and some Testors) lacquers through my airbrush, colors that aren't available in jars. I never have the need to store the decanted paint. I never poke holes in cans. I never have disasters from poking holes in cans. I decant enough paint to use for the project at hand (if I need more, I decant more, and only wait a few minutes for the propellant to dissipate; the little residual amount left over atomizes completely when run through the airbrush). All my spray cans are still 100% useable as spray cans until empty. The last dregs from a can that don't spray well will paint an amazing amount of stuff when run through the airbrush. I cannot fathom using any system other than the straw method, it's dead simple, it's dirt cheap, no storage issues, a minimum of mess, and no disasters. The K.I.S.S method at work. I highly recommend it over any other method of decanting that I've ever encountered. And you do not have to wait anything more than a few minutes to spray. You might wait a bit longer if you use a cap and jar system on your airbrush. I use open metal paint cups without a lid (sometimes I'll use the lid on my gravity feed brush if I've filled the cup, but that's not with decanted paint). I did use an easier method before, not using a straw and just spraying the paint into the cup. It's messy but fast. Once I heard about the straw method I thought "wow, why didn't I think of that before?!" I tried it, and I'm hooked.

I decant Tamiya all the time. Yes, there's propellant in the cup when it's sprayed, but it goes away in a few minutes. My setup likes to have few drops of lacquer thinner (seems that Tamiya lacquer thinner, Mr. Color thinner, and regular old lacquer thinner all work) added for the best flow, but it really depends on your airbrush and the pressure you spray at. You'll know pretty quick if it's flowing well enough or needs a bit of thinner. I spray into a little plastic mixing cup and swish it around w/some thinner, when it hits the metal paint cup on my airbrush it bubbles/boils a bit, then stops in a few minutes. No problem at all, and don't believe people that say you have to wait X number of hours. For me it's a few minutes. And I save a ton of Tamiya paint running it through the airbrush.

Looks fantastic! Great color combo, it looks real.

Historically Revell misses their first planned intro. date by 3 months to 2.5 years, sometimes they drag a release date a couple years before cancelling (how 'bout that CRX? ). Revell has gotten much better since the dragging-out by years subjects, but I wouldn't be surprised if it's late in the year before it hits.

If you want to see what each color looks like and the various interior colors, go to Audis website and build one. Audi Website

The sky is the limit with Ferrari; if you have the cash they'll match nearly any color. You can go to a Ferrari dealership and see the color/trim samples for yourself, they offer a wide variety of "standard" colors. Red, maroon, blue, many shades of brown/tan/beige/gray, leather coverings for dash, or optional painted or carbon fiber, contrasting stitching, contrasting color strips...if you can imagine it, Ferrari will do it. Contrasting carpet colors, yada yada.

Oops...had you asked here ahead of time, you'd have found out that you can't touch Alclad II with anything but a soft cloth. Novus is way too strong for it, and over time even fingerprints will affect it. None of these new "chrome" films applied by airbrush are what I'd call durable. You have to be very careful with it. Put those parts on at the very end of the build. No polish, no clear, just a very soft cloth to dust off the overspray. Tricky stuff...

Not surprised that Speed goes after ratings. Not surprising either is that the "best" shows are never the ones that have the highest ratings. Going after high ratings is generally catering to the lowest common denominator. Good shows that become popular generally aren't as good when they start catering to the big crowds and the advertisers. I want Speedvision back!

You're preaching to the choir, brother I about gave up when they dropped WRC coverage. Today's F1 race...if you missed it this morning, it won't be replayed. Boring as it was Speed used to have all sorts of cool shows. Now it's mainly ######. None of their "reality" shows is worth watching. I don't follow NASCAR. So 95% of what they air, I could care less about. I hope that the originator of Speedvision does start a new network to bring back the auto coverage that was Speedvision. Speed Channel is horrible.

The dog dishes are easily found in the photo with the three chrome trees. Look to the right... Also, I hope there isn't a problem with your linking to another forum. It's generally frowned upon. But you did it, not me, so if anyone gets in trouble w/either forum, it won't be me

I know that forums generally don't like people to link from one to the other due to advertiser issues etc. If you want to see pics of the kit, there is a thread in Automotive Forums dot com in the automotive art/car modeling section with photos of the kit contents. Looks pretty cool; 440 and Hemi, dog dish hubcaps/steelies as well. The A/F forum has been cantankerous today, so don't be surprised if it doesn't load or is slow. Just like this one

Cleaned w/Easy Off? The greasiest, slimiest resins were no match for Easy Off, in my case. That greasy MGB GT really taught me something, regardless of the pain I went through to find out that Easy Off worked not only to strip the paint that was running off in sheets, but also made the resin finally pass the tape test (Prep Sol/Naptha/Westleys/Castrol/Bon Ami didn't touch the stuff, and lacquer thinner wasn't quite good enough either). I got a Corvette concept resin several years back that was also a greasy mess, and Easy Off got it squeaky clean. I don't bother with any other solvent or cleaner, other than warm soapy water and maybe a wipe w/isopropyl before shooting paint.

I've already built a stock '68 from the Landy kit, so I don't need another, but I'm sure glad the R8 is out. I'm hoping it's like all other Revell USA variants and molded in white instead of the silver and gray Revell AG version. The SSP reissue of the Cessna 180 also came out this week, I have to build one for a friend who owns the real plane. I need to set up a time one weekend soon to go flying w/him and get some pics.

The irony of this joke is that Leon Tefft (Cobra Colors) is a cop

I just spray a bit of Easy Off on resin, let it sit for about 10 minutes, then rinse thoroughly. Westley's is okay to immerse the body in for awhile. I've had a couple resin kits from a couple prominent companies that were greasy from an impervious mold release that Westleys didn't touch, nor even other cleaners, still had fisheyes...but Easy Off got all of it. So I don't bother with anything but Easy Off now.

From seeing Fujimi boxart photos the GTO will have an engine I certainly hope the tooling is done so that more than a GTO can be done with it. Can't wait for the Scuderia and RX3 Hopefully the aftermarket will do some kewl vintage schemes for the RX3...Gatorade car anyone?

I could take some pics of one of these models that I bought from Lee Baker; he detailed it out in a different paint scheme vs. the real car that resides at the Henry Ford Museum. For a '60's era kit, it's got very good detail. I'll definitely get a couple of the reissues to play with. I'd love to do a coupe...even a phantom, though a Bugatti-enthusiast friend demands I do a Kellner Coupe...properly...

New twist on the Hot Rod Lincoln?

Looks good, and it's going to be reissued soon!

It is a 1/2 scale one-off pedal car built by a father and son team. The angle of the photo helps hide the wheels which have solid backs. Clues for me, before finding it: the brake drums didn't look like the real ones, and the big central steering wheel. Here are more shots:

Thanks for the insider insight, Tim! More food for thought: NNL's are the antithesis of the "rivet counter" mentality seen at contests. Here we are splitting hairs and counting rivets between NNL's and contests. Hmmmmm....think I'll go back to my workbench, got a lot of good painting/detailing accomplished in the last couple of hours