Zoom Zoom

While I love my fuel-efficient sportscar, a sign like that makes me want to park a Suburban there just to PO the smug

Ever since the cat was out of the bag, people continued voting. Two have voted "model" in that timeframe.

I decant Tamiya sprays all the time to run through my airbrush. Saves a lot of paint, and being able to apply very fine mist coats is a definite plus. I have been known to put a final wet coat straight from the spray can over the airbrushed paint, which works wonders.

Harry, IIRC the same thing happened at the other site and I believe that the only way to prevent most instances of people blurting out the answer is to make the rules of the game clear in every week's ROM. Nobody's trying to sabotage it, they simply either forgot or don't know the rules. A little "boilerplate" warning should work wonders

Looks just right Perfect color combo for the XK-120. I've got both an unbuilt metal-body Monogram and a newish plastic Revell AG version; aside from the material they seem pretty much identical. I assume the Aoshima XK-120 is the same kit. Now that I have two, someday I'll build one stock and one as a vintage racer. One of the most gorgeous cars ever mass-produced.

I think Jeff posted at Spotlight and the SA forum, it's been quite awhile since his last post on the subject. Any resin caster that shows tiny photos that don't have much detail tells me that they don't want customers looking any closer before "the kill". I can think of at least three outfits that sell very sketchy resin on Feebay and they all have tiny/lousy photos that try to hide their craptasticness that way to the uninitiated. I'd never buy something like that on Feebay; perhaps if I saw one at a show and it was acceptable, but definitely not sight-unseen especially considering the price and feedback from a professional-level builder like Jeff.

Jeff Duranso has been occasionally posting a Marauder he's building from them (probably on another board), and he's said the kit is pretty miserable to work with, requiring a ton of rework. So perhaps starting w/a 69 Galaxie isn't a bad idea I've been hoping to see a good resin Marauder from somewhere; I have plenty of '69 Galaxies if one ever happens, but I'd rather scratchbuild one than fix someone else's mess. With so many other projects I'll likely never have the time to do it...would be awesome if a quality caster like Missing Link could get a Marauder into our hands...

Regular old Bondo and their regular old air-dry glazing putty is ubiquitouos around here, but you can't find any catalyzed glazing putty at any of the "normal" auto parts stores...have to get Evercoat at an autobody/paint supply store, which we have plenty of as well. The distribution chain is yanking my chain

I would use that if I could find it! I mean, c'mon...there's a bloody Bondo factory in this town (or at least there was a few years ago), but the only glazing putty that can be found around here without going on a wild goose chase is plain old Bondo and their plain old non-catalyzed glazing putty. I prefer 3M's non-catalyzed glazing putty over the Bondo brand, but honestly never use it because of shrinkage. I once had a tube of 3M catalyzed glazing putty, it was nice stuff. I really don't care what brand, generally catalyzed glazing putty is all pretty good. But around here seems that Evercoat is what you'll get 99.999% of the time.

The rear torsion arm in my kit looks like the one in the directions and it fit my model just fine; it attaches to the left/rear part of the rear axle assembly which isn't shown in the diagram above. It glues right behind the left rear trailing arm. The other parts attach to the chassis exactly as shown in the diagram. Did you cut off the mounting pins?

The problem is that the Dynatron stuff is unobtanium around here, whereas Evercoat is available at nearly every auto body/paint supply store. Evercoat is pricey, but to me it's worth it, and I don't have to go on a search and destroy mission just to find the stupid stuff! Trust me, every time I've gone into an auto parts store I look for alternatives...no such luck, it's the old-fashioned Bondo, or the Bondo spot putty that's not catylized. I prefer to steer well clear of both. Your mileage may vary.

Whatever the source, all I remember when I saw the kit for the first time was saying "Whiskey Tango Foxtrot are those doing there?" Might as well have been a swan hood ornament, fugly wheels and tires, a GT wing or massive "boomerang" antenna on the deck..don't mess with the clean classic lines on the Rocketbird like that!

I'll drink to that. I like the 275 better than the GTO . I prefer the styling. I've got the Italeri 275's just in case. I will eventually build a "matched pair" of a 275 and a 599 GTB; obviously to me the Fiorano was heavily influenced by the 275 in many respects. Also would like to see LWB California Spyder, 250 SWB, and Lusso done by either Fujimi or Hasegawa. I loved building the Hasegawa Testa Rossa, I assume the Fujimi GTO will be similarly satisfying. One Ferrari I would not buy is a model of the new California Spider. Yecccchhh....that thing's a stinkeroo...Ferrari has no business chasing Lexus

Fully understood. I'm a member of the "got the lecture" club as well. That's all I will say publicly, as it's not worth dredging up again.

You don't even want to know how bad the internet would break if Revell had done the tank at "only" 90 degrees off

Looks fantastic, plenty of basic detail, lots of parts w/o being over-the-top with hundreds of fussy "Enthusiast Model" parts that just bog me down

I hate to tell you, but you may find post #33 in this thread strikingly familiar.

Perfect combination on this Merc; looks awesome-you nailed it

Great job, I wasn't a fan of "real fire" until seeing it on your stripes. Too often a new technique, like chrome "paint", multi-color flip-flop pearls, and real fire are overused, applied to the entire car. I prefer the subtle approach, using that kind of stuff in moderation...just like this car shows. Bravo These Jada Shelbys are a blast. Revell needs to watch their back!

That body looks like toast. Too much widespread damage, you'll spend so much time monkeying with it with it most likely letting you down after a ton of work. If it were just the roof, or just one section...but with damage so widespread, the body crushed and twisted, I think you'll be better off (not financially, but in time and frustration) finding a better body.

Someone mentioned the fact the kit has Magnum 500 wheels, but Cragar decals I looked at the kit up close this weekend, one of my friends is building the model for a review...and sure enough, Cragar decals but Magnum 500 wheels. Oops...

I just turned out a new '08/'09 Tamiya Nissan GT-R; working on a Tamiya Kawasaki ZZR-1400 aka Ninja ZX-14, and two Revell '69 Novas, stock and drag. All of these are pretty good kits, especially the bike and the Nova.

Wow! That is cool!

Not instead of the GT500, but in addition to. New hood, intake from GT350-H, different grilles, different wheels, pretty easy to do with the other Shelby parts they're making. Revell probably has been working on all three at the same time. Sure wish we could get a Parnelli Jones version, but I doubt that will happen.