Ace-Garageguy

Don't. Really. Let it air dry. Life will wait. Baking styrene models can also cause the plastic itself to out-gas, making the paint blister. Most ovens don't really have very good temperature control at the lower settings anyway (many of them are somewhat inaccurate through the entire range too...which you'd have experienced if you cook much). AND...your food will taste like paint and plastic forever afterwards.

If that's the future, I'm glad I won't be here to see it.

And one of the sweetest-sounding V8 engines ever to grace the planet, too.

Copied from The Boat Owners Association of the United States website: http://www.boatus.com/boatTECH/articles/bilge-blowers.asp "Venting your bilge of potentially lethal gas fumes is no job for a jury rig. Bilge blower units are designed and constructed specifically for their life in the trenches - electrical components are "ignition protected" to prevent sparking and causing the explosion that they are installed to avert, and the units are built to withstand over-heating and corrosion. However, most bilge blowers are NOT designed for continuous use. They are designed to be run for a short while only. If you run them continuously you may burn them up or even start a fire. There are continuous use bilge blowers available and if you want this (and it can be a very good idea) be sure you get one designed for this and wire it properly. Bilge blowers are available to move air in two ways - some units feature a squirrel cage configuration, while others favor a "tunnel", or "in-line" design which utilizes a small fan. The type you choose will depend on the space available and on how you plan to mount it. Both types evacuate air very efficiently, and are available in sizes which handle 100-250 c.f.m. (cubic feet of air per minute). The size you need is determined by the volume of your engine compartment (see below). The best plan is usually to have two blowers, one to blow air out and the other to suck outside air into the engine space. However great care must be taken that the outside air intake is free of CO and other fumes."

There was a 928 around here with a big-block Chebby back in the '80s. Real hack-job too. Took out the IRS rear transaxle and cobbled in a Ford 9". Horrible batard car. But quick in a straight line.

Guys started putting V8 engines in 914s well before that...mid '70s. Kennedy Engineering made the engine-to-trans adapters. We put V8s in the back seats of Corvairs too, and Crown Manufacturing made a kit to do it. There were also a few crazy Porsche 911s built with V8 engines mounted in the rear...one of which used a complete Oldsmobile Toronado drivetrain. And there were some Beetles with V8 engines, front-mounted or rear-mounted.

Lotsa guys have built relatively cheap air-extractors and / or paint booths, vented to the outdoors, using easily obtained bilge-fans for boats. Boat bilges can build up explosive concentrations of gasoline vapor. A US Coast Guard approved bilge fan SHOULD be suitable for use in potentially dangerous atmospheres. Some kitchen exhaust fans are also rated for explosive atmospheres. Atomized, hot cooking grease can be highly flammable. Do your due diligence research.

Because "Really Retarded Restyle of a Vehicle that Was Once Good Looking" wasn't deemed to be good marketing copy.

Neither car would have been remotely legal as a gasser. Possibly legal to run modified-sports, but only with the engine in the original mid or rear location. Altered, maybe, or maybe a gutted shell used for a Comp Coupe class, like this one in '64. Early on, engines in gassers had to be in the more-or-less original location, and later on only 10% setback was allowed.

@ TimKustom ^^...man, those are BEAUTIFUL !! SO right, both of them.

Not irked so much as...hmmmm. I'm coming up on the end of my part of the '47 Caddy job (once she's running / driving, she goes away for paint and upholstery) and the tying-up-loose-ends mechanical and electrical details always seems to drag on forever. Still some systems to sort too, like integrating the 2014 XTS shifter with the 4L80-E gearbox (going to require a magic bellcrank to reverse the direction the control cable comes in to the shift lever on the gearbox), modifying the PRNDL to illuminate correctly (the XTS PRNDL is computer controlled, and we're not using any XTS electronics), component boards for the HID lighting, and on and on and on. Oh well. You eat the pachyderm one bite at a time.

Real, for all the reasons listed above. The fine details are just too crisp and clean...unless it's in 1/8. And it does look p-shopped to me too.

I have a couple of the first and subsequent releases, both stock and the BRE car. I agree, it's really quite a nice kit...and it's way better a representation of the subject than Revell's Porsche 914 of around the same vintage. The Webers are quite good if you replace the molded air-horn blobs with decent velocity stacks, too. I've owned and built my fair share of these in 1:1 too, still have 2 engines, one equipped with Webers!

Looking good. Bright silver is one of the tougher colors to do well, and yours looks great. Nice clean swap too. The LS is showing up in just about everything these days. As nicely-balanced and all around good-handling as this generation RX-7 is stock, it should be a real ball of a car in 1:1 with the Chebby V8.

Here's a video pan-around of that engine built up; maybe that will help you. Remember also than on any conventional V-8 engine, one cylinder head is ALWAYS farther forward than the other one. On the big-block Chevy, which this is, the head farthest forward is the LH, driver's side.

Just downloaded and installed the Nikon View NX2 to replace my old Nikon Picture Project photo editor. Man, nice program. So far, so good. Now we'll see if it will talk to my old obsolete Coolpix L4. Drumroll please...

Works for me....exactly as I outlined in the instructions above. You're getting the wrong image code, somehow. WHAT are you doing, EXACTLY? Your image code for these pix should be 2 lines. It should start with [URL=http://s524......... All you do is left-click the IMG box to the immediate right of the photo, and then do Ctrl-v here. Can't be any simpler. What you're trying to put up is apparently the "direct" or the "e-mail" link code. http://i524.photobucket.com/albums/cc327/bigiron383/e35b24cb22aa0a09ab1115817ead90c4_zpsnfowdae2.jpg Yup. Somehow, you're copying the "Direct" code line rather than the "IMG" code line. Maybe an odd problem with your computer not communicating with PB correctly...??

Here's another good one... http://gassermadness.us/Gas_Classes/index.htm

I saw lotsa water on the road, which at times can be a little unnerving in my old truck. Bald, BALD rear tires, and she does the hydroplane dance at anything over about 30 MPH in the wet. Just gotta get the new tires mounted one of these days.

Man's got a point. Lotsa the mile-high cars being billed as "gassers" these days would have to run as altereds anyway, due to the amount of engine setback and height. For instance, at one time, the engine setback in a gasser was limited to 10%, and the crank centerline at 24" high. Decide whether you want to build a wannabe look-at-me pretend car, or a real race car, and if it's the latter, look up the relevant rules for the time period you want your model to represent. There's a link to old gas-class and other NHRA rules somewhere on this board. Modified convertible Corvettes 'round '63 would have run in the MSP class with its own set of rules (modified sports for convertibles, but the '63 and later hardtop MAY have been legal to run as a straight gas-class car...look it up if you want to be accurate). By '68 or so, I'm pretty sure there were converts running as gassers. I believe the very famous Mazmanian car ran factory-type independent front suspension too, not the straight-axle favored by some real cars and all the wannabes. Here's a couple threads to get you started... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/corvette-hot-rods-picture-thread.545759/ http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/corvette-gassers.573476/

I only asked because I did a very intentional wedge-channel on my (taking forever) '32 gluebomb build, and it took rather a lot of planning and fabrication. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/59708-32-ford-roadster-gluebomb-rework-sept-8-15-back-on-track/?page=1

Yes, Mr. Snake is spot-on with that idea...and even though the '63 and later Corvettes had independent rear suspension, a real gasser version most certainly would NOT (too fragile) so the Revell '62 guts are good all the way back. Also bear in mind that the C1 and C2 (first gen Stingray) Corvette frames are entirely different, but there's nothing to stop you from building a C2 Stingray gasser on a C1 Corvette frame, even in the real world.

I recently got it a couple of times, and then immediately the entire site became "down" for me, but when I checked several "site-down" testers, they all said it was up. Then about an hour later, it was accessible to me again. Very strange.

Really nice work on this. Love the parts choices and colors you used, and the stance and proportions are definitely a big improvement from OotB. The '32 grille shell is a big improvement too. If there was ever a textbook illustration as to why the '32 shell is SO popular on early Fords, this is it. I didn't follow the entire build thread. Is that a partial wedge-channel on this too? (looks like you've dropped the rear of the body shell more than the front, relative to the frame rails). Or is it an optical illusion from the camera angle?