Ace-Garageguy

Wow, that's a great idea to get kids involved in doing something actually hands-on. You must also have the patience of a saint. A large part of my career has been built on skills and knowledge I began learning while building models as a kid......something my parents thought was a total and complete waste of time, by the way. You're doing a good thing.

Yes, but in the US, he's better known for his relationship with Ferrari and other Italian makes, partially because his Cisitalia was featured by the NYC Museum of Modern Art in 1972. We haven't had a lot of Peugeots over here, but many US car guys know the Ferrari 275, the Dino 246, the Alfa Spyder Duetto, the Fiat 124 Spyder, the Ferrari Daytona, Testarossa, Ferraris 308 and 328, 355, 360, 550 Barchetta and the F40 and Enzo.....not to mention some spectacular show cars like the the Mythos and the Maserati Birdcage 75th. The company's work reads like a who's who of vehicle design.

Thanks. I'd really like to do some COE wreckers and a chopped Divco.

For those who don't know already, he or his company were responsible for many of the most beautiful cars from Ferrari, Alfa Romeo, etc.

One of the most talented and prolific designers ever to have walked on the planet. Ciao, Sergio. Buona notte e sogni d'oro!

Pretty sure if I had a tub full of whatever that is in the second picture, I wouldn't worry too much about working on model cars, at least for a while.

Why not just clearance the oilpan, or modify the front crossmember to fit, like you would on a real car? Might save you some time, and I KNOW that motor will go in that car in 1:1.

Love these old Ponchos. Now you've got me lusting after one.

Nice conversion shaping up here. You just never see these Lincolns and they make beautiful cars. Great idea.

I'd say counteroffer that he pays you $15 back. You never know, he might. Personally, I'd take the $10 bucks, call it a lesson learned, and post honest feedback (AFTER THE MONEY is back in your PayPal account) about what happened. He's asking you to LIE for 10 bucks. How much is your honesty worth to you? I have over 900 ebay transactions, and EVERY problem I've ever had has been resolved. There haven't been many, by the way. One more point....IF THE SELLER REFUSES to answer the claim, PayPal WILL refund your money WITHOUT sending the item back. Then they take it all out of his behind.

Great looking project. I like the wedge-sectioned hood idea. Foose did something similar on a '56 a few years back.

Great concept, great progress, vast improvement over Chrysler Corp's original gesign.

Great historical points Art. Have you ever seen the film of ol' Henry hitting the soy-based '41 body with a sledgehammer? Pretty tough stuff, but a little too bio-degradable at the time. Celluloid (dash nobs, film stock, flexible side curtains on phaetons and roadsters) was another somewhat plant-based early plastic, the first I think, made with nitro-cellulose (cellulose being plant fibers) and camphor. Also a little too bio-degradable. For what it's worth, Hexel, one of today's makers of carbon-fiber for Formula 1, made an all plastic (phenolic with linen/flax fiber reinforcement) Spitfire fighter airframe in WWII. Never flew, but it was a proof-of-concept project to deal with Britain's lack of aluminum resources.

Very original and interesting idea. Looking forward to seeing how it comes together.

Really like what you're doing, and I think the Fiery Orange will be knockout on it.

We have a lot of new members on the site who are frequently asking questions, which is good. As I frequently answer questions, and as I prefer to get my advice from somebody with a visible track record, I decided to bump some of my old build threads...particularly those that have useful and sometimes unusual techniques illustrated. Newer users won't have to dig so deep in my content to see whether or not “this guy actually knows what he's talking about”. EDIT: Well, that wasn't such a good idea. ALL THE PHOTOS IN THE FIRST POST GOT DUMPED when I copied this text from Open Office. Let's see if I can fix it. EDIT 2: One done. More later. Just for the record, I started this build in December of 2010 on another forum. It's still there. I started it up over here because it's back in the rotation, with a deadline. This is probably my favorite pickup of all time. The 1:1 was built by Dan Collins a few years back, and I think it's almost perfect. I'm not gonna copy it exactly, but I want the same stance and feel. Though one of the Revell '37 kits has a '38 optional nose, the cabs on the '37 and '38 are entirely different. Similar, but different. When I started this build, I was lucky enough to have access to a 1:1 to take measurements from. This is the beginning of the cab mods to make it right. Top chop inprogress.....I actually re-chopped it 3 times to get the right height. The '38 fenders are also entirely different from the '37, and looked to me a lot like the '36 car, so I started trying to use old AMT fenders to get the look. It took a lot of cutting and hacking and temporary structure to get it to work..... Pretty good, but no cigar. That's when I got to measure a real one....Seems the fenders are indeed a lot like '36 car fenders, but they're larger. Hmmmmm says I, how about using 1/24 fenders from the Monogram '36 kit. Bingo....right proportions, finally. They DO take a little modification, but we're definitely on the right track now.

Wanted to open the deck before I got into the restyle of the tail too far. This old body is as thick as resin, and extremely brittle. I thinned the deck cut-lines on the inside with a dremel to ease the process. The tube between the rockers is a temporary reinforcement to keep the body from cracking again through the front and rear cowl sections. The decklid sides were straight cuts with the razor saw, and the front cut-line only required scribing repeatedly to deepen it to almost the depth I'd thinned it to inside. Then it snapped out, fairly cleanly. Open hood and deck, body still intact thanks to the tubular reinforcement. Starting to repair the sinks in the panels, to get them in primer and see how well they fit back in the openings.

Got enough of the bodywork squared away to start with the primer...... Still have some issues with the resin firewall that need to be addressed.... Had to make the roll at the bottom of the hood side where I'd cut the exhaust opening in the wrong place. Styrene half-round rod. Will primer today. Also finishing up the extensions to the grille shell, to kick the bottom forward a bit. I'd originally put the extensions on the hood sides, but the resultant angle made it impossible to easily remove the hood. Duh.

Looks like you're well on your way to having some parts. What's the gooey blue stuff in your mold boxes, on your plugs? Some kind of mold release? Just a helpful FYI: I've posted this several times in the past, but here is a link to over 3 hours of FREE instructional videos on making molds and parts the right way. It is presented by a company that makes tools and supplies for industry. The information is correct, not opinion, and will potentially save anyone wanting to make parts from molds MUCH wasted time doing trial-and-error, and alow you to turn out first-rate parts consistently. I have NO afilliation with this company, other than as an ocassional customer, but their products and videos are 100%, and they know what they're talikng about. I really recommend anyone wanting to make parts from resin to look at the offerings here. http://www.freemansupply.com/video.htm

With all that rake, it should kinda coast downhill all the time, huh? Pretty cool.

Not so odd really, if you think about it. Plastic as we currently know it is a mix of hydrocarbon compounds derived from petroleum, which is of course ancient vegatable matter and a few dinosaurs processed by nature under elevated temperature and pressure over a LONG time. Making plastic from growing things simply eliminates the eons it takes for nature to make petroleum from the same stuff. A hydrocarbon molecule is a hydrocarbon molecule.

The BMW is indeed special, and practical too. One just never knows when it might be necessary to deal with corn-on-the-cob while on the road. I remember when I was a mere lad that STP stickers were also widely thought to add horsepower. As much as things change, they seem to stay the same.

Charlie, thanks for posting this. I let my Design News paper subscription expire a couple of years back. Thanks to you, I'm back in this particular loop again. Glad to see modelers looking at the future of the materials we rely on and take for granted.

I would suggest you stick a drill bit or a piece of something similar in the hole and mark it , so you know how deep your hole actually is. Then transfer this mark to the outside of the center post, and you'll know exactly how far you can go without losing the hole. This always works for me. As Wayne says, then you can open the hole up as far as you need to. Of course, be careful you don't cut through to the face of the wheel. I've ruined a few by not measuring carefully enough and getting in a hurry.

Beautiful job on this little Bug. My first car was a '62 about the same color, in about the same condition when I got it. Your fine model really brought back some good memories.