Ace-Garageguy

It's a vast improvement over what you had before, so be happy.

The "Painter's Touch" clear, while not labeled very accurately as to what it actually IS, has a big warning right there on the can: ADHERE AU PLASTIQUE...which means "adheres to plastic"...which invariably means it has hot solvents that will bite into plastic...and wrinkle the jello out of wimpy enamel.

Yup...this has been my experience as well.

Internet experts know everything there is to know about everything, and they'll be glad to share their extensive and factual knowledge.

I had Lamborghini Miuras in 1/24 and 1/12, but for years I've been wanting to do a build of Bob Wallace's hot-rod Jota. https://supercarnostalgia.com/blog/lamborghini-p400-jota https://magazine.derivaz-ives.com/the-life-times-of-bob-wallace-lamborghinis-ace-test-driver/ A couple of the Hasegawa 1/24 versions came up well under market-asking, so I sprung for both of 'em. The wheels in the kit aren't correct for the original Jota (which was destroyed; the kit represents a semi-replica built from a real Miura), so that will need to be addressed as well, along with other details to backdate the kit to the appearance of the original. Though the kit's engine is basically a plate with some semi-blobular bits, and the rear subframe is lacking details, there's enough there to get a start on scratch-bashing something better. This is one car where the engine/drivetrain (V12 sidewinder) is so integral to the design that it HAS to get a reasonably presentable rendition, and an opening rear deck to show it off. Four of the 3-barrel downdraft Webers I've been collecting primarily for Porsche 911s will find a home here. The first 1:1 Miura I worked on had been hit in the rear, and the gorgeous hole-punched rear subframe had simply been pulled out on a frame rack, the remaining kinks puttied over and squirted with undercoating, leaving the lightening holes warped and distorted...and the structure severely weakened. Chassis rigidity wasn't the early Miura's strong point anyway, so it's doubly tragic that such incompetent hackers ever got their hands on one of these jewel-like machines. What it's supposed to look like, below.

Very nice animation and explanation of the works. And then remember these locomotives were designed and engineered entirely without the benefit of computers.

Yup. Goes together just like the old one...and every one I've seen was molded in white. This, however, is an entirely different tool, with nothing in common at all.

Nowhere Man is a song as relevant today as when it was written.

I talk to an old friend who lives alone a couple of times every day, just to make sure she's OK, usually at about 10 AM and 10 PM my time. Couldn't reach her all day, she finally picked up just now, all is well.

Yes, definitely. Sits just right too.

One thing can lead to another when dating, and then one day you wake up screaming.

Wow.

"Reason" for not doing something and "excuse" for not doing something are entirely different things, but some members of the management class can't make the distinction.

Sorry I can't tell you exactly what it is, but steam locomotives are complex, and though they all operate basically the same, every design is a little different. The controls of a big one are as daunting as those for an airliner. This is Big Boy 4017; all those gauges tell you important stuff, and all those valves do something. If you get it wrong, you can end up like this...and possibly very dead.

Looks good. If you run it, just be sure there are no obstructions for a long way. I inadvertently turned one into plastic shards on its first test when I was a kid.

Back in the real glory days of VW-powered sand buggies, there were so many similar competing designs...and so many were modified...it would be hard to say exactly what or even if the Revell model represents any specific prototype. Mark is probably closest to the truth.

Yup...and there's an idiot rumor circulating on the web that she's not really a steam locomotive at all anymore, but that there's a diesel engine hidden inside the boiler. Must be quite the experience to be so clueless as to rebleat and apparently believe something so obviously ridiculous.

Some kind of condensate drain...but I don't have my steam locomotive reference books handy to see exactly what that pipe is from. In general, whenever the engine stops, water condenses from steam in various places (depending on the specific engine) and has to be drained. Just before the engine starts, the cylinders are purged of liquid water condensate so they don't blow the cylinder heads off. Water is non-compressible. The water level in the boiler is manually monitored by the engineer and fireman, who are watching a sight-glass, and if it gets too high momentarily, some will be drained off. Also, the electrical generators and air compressors are steam driven, and condensate has to be drained from those too, though they're usually seen as steam escaping in places not associated with propulsion.

The GMC six is pretty much just a slightly larger version of the Chevy 6 (though nothing interchanges but the distributor), somewhere around 2 inches longer (roughly 2 mm in scale), and a 1/24 Chevy 6 should pretty much get you there in 1/25 if you want something that's visually a little bigger. Swapping inline GMCs into Chevys was fairly popular for performance, especially pre'53 cars, when the Chevy still lacked pressure oiling. Sure there are minor differences, like the timing cover, front mounts, etc., but you'd need to be a real engine nerd like me to notice...or care (which I probably wouldn't in 1/25 scale). But most car modelers today really don't go into the esoterica of engines anyway, or particularly sweat mechanical details (just my opinion...yours may differ). EDIT: Yes, it would be nice to have accurate models of both the Chevy and GMC inline sixes of the period, and all the trick heads too. But I'm not holding my breath. EDIT 2: Though most of the inline-6 Chevy/GMC websites seem to be gone, there's still detailed esoterica out there... https://inlinersinternational.org/the-12-port-story-part-1/ https://www.inliners.org/12_Port_Story/pt_nine.html

Times they are a changin'.

it landed. No big deal

See Spot run.

The thing to remember is simply that excellent results can be obtained from a lot of paint products not intended specifically for models, but not all of them, and that in general, those without a lot of experience (and the judgement that comes with it) will have a much easier time using paint materials marketed for modeling...though at a somewhat higher price.

Orange and tangerine are related fruits and related colors.

Images schmimages; I only see what I want to see.