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Everything posted by Ace-Garageguy
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Yup. First time it ever hit home for me was Kraft Macaroni and Cheese. Like you said, an occasional familiar comfort food from my youth. It had been going downhill for years, but last time I made a pot of it, it was so flavorless and bland and watery that I tossed it out...left it outside for whatever animal wanted it actually...and I NEVER waste food.
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https://www.heart.org/en/health-topics/heart-attack/angina-chest-pain/heartburn-or-heart-attack
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"Undesirable" is often a term applied to people who have records of multiple convictions for criminal activity.
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So sad that's even a question. I lived the early part of my life in a suburb of a major midwestern city, and "light pollution" wasn't yet a standard thing. I could go outside most any cloudless night and see the Milky Way, no problem. We've lost a lot by becoming a "civilization" that fears the dark because of crime perpetrated by our fellow humans.
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Cool. I worked for several years in a "traditional" rod shop that wasn't much bigger than that. Some of the best and most satisfying work I ever did.
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World Wide Web created by giant spiders is a thing, and here's the proof.
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"Midday" sounds like it could be an Aussie middle-of-the-day version of "g'day".
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Now I'm getting hungry, probably 'cause I missed lunch.
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Fixtures and jigs can be very helpful in getting things symmetrical, square, or just holding things while they dry.
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RED PLASTIC LEACHING COLOR INTO PAINT: This topic has been debated endlessly for years, with some insisting it's a problem, and some insisting it's not. The REASON people disagree is that SOME red plastics leach color and SOME don't...and not every red plastic from the same manufacturer does it. I know this to be true from extensive experimentation. SO...as in all things related to getting primo paint results on models these days: TEST ON THE PARTICULAR PLASTIC FROM THE MODEL YOU'RE WORKING WITH BEFORE DECIDING HOW TO HANDLE IT.
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"Yours is mine, and mine is mine" seems to be a fairly common attitude today.
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Steve's right. They're history. BUT...depending on exactly what you need, you can machine the soft rims off and save the centers. The chrome wheels on the left (below), from an AMT Cobra, had softened rims, but the centers were fine. I machined the rims off to use the centers with rims machined from the red wheels. Finito (right, below)
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"Goes along to get along" is not something you would say about anyone with a backbone.
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Word salad mixed with drivel and seasoned with meaningless pontificating is popular in some circles.
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"Granted" isn't the name of the rock we're warned not to take schist for.
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Makes sense if you want to paint 200 models the same color.
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"Entering the Twilight Zone" seems to be daily reality now.
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Men who behave like decent grown men have nothing to be ashamed of.
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Scroll halfway down to Art Anderson's post, below:: Photos missing on this one, but the text is good:
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Wire is handy for all kinds of emergency repairs, from pants and button reattachment to field sutures in combat.
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Beautiful beautiful. The story of the sad end of the Avro Canada CF-105 Arrow program still makes me sad / mad every time I think about it. What a waste.
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What non-auto model did you get today?
Ace-Garageguy replied to chunkypeanutbutter's topic in The Off-Topic Lounge
Happened to get to one of the flea-markets after work, just after the "train lady" had restocked, walked out with a basket full of rescues, vintage craftsman kits, cars, and a ton of landscaping stuff including 7 rubber rock-molds, ballast, ground foam, Hydrocal, etc. Probably my favorite from the entire haul is this NOS HO AHM GP18 in Santa Fe freight livery. $12. These go used for anywhere from $35 to $55 online, including shipping. Some AHM locomotives are trainset quality, but this one is heavy with a semi-can-motor, all-wheel pickup and all wheel drive. And because of the way the drive is made, they're easy to re-motor and upgrade to DCC. The handrails are a little on the heavy side, but I've been experimenting on an AHM Alco RS3 of similar vintage, carefully scraping the side rails with an X-Acto to thin them, and replacing the end rails with formed wire in the original (drilled) stanchions. The results are definitely worthwhile. Rework the pilots, dump the truck-mounted couplers for frame-mounted Kadees, add air and MU hoses and other details, a little weathering, and they'll compare well visually with high-end current RTR models. And not a spectacular deal, but this Proto 2000 drop-end mill gondola kit in Ann Arbor markings is exactly right for a steel mill setting. These go fo $20-$50 online with shipping, so I'm pretty happy having paid $8.