Ace-Garageguy

Mix me a drink, shweetheart, unlesh you think I've a'ready had too mush.

90210 makes me think unpleasant thoughts...

Red toothbrush handles, clear red acrylic sheet and rod, red sprue... sheet: https://www.ebay.com/itm/223129528702 square rod: https://www.ebay.com/itm/293306513107 round rod: https://www.ebay.com/itm/291595083823

Agreed. No point reinventing the wheel when the old one still rolls just fine. I would personally probably not use a 2K clear on a model, because the film build is designed to be thick enough to withstand fairly aggressive mechanical sanding and polishing after two to three coats. In the hands of many modelers, it yields a dipped-in-syrup look I detest. That's NOT to say you can't make it work beautifully for models, but it takes experimentation with reducers and spray technique...and if you leave catalyzed product in your spraygun or airbrush, you'll be buying a new one.

Many factors determine when a specific clear is "fully cured" but the vast majority of professional-grade products can be color-sanded and polished entirely safely after 24 hours. "Fast" hardeners and reducers can accelerate this to a few hours or less, as will temperature. Urethane clears may indeed not reach "full cure" where they have developed maximum hardness and solvent resistance for 30 days, and some may exhibit "dieback" minor gloss loss, or shrinking in that time...but that will all go away with another quick polish job. Best thing to do is READ, UNDERSTAND, AND FOLLOW THE TDS FOR EACH SPECIFIC PRODUCT and don't make assumptions based on internet recommendations from people who heard from their hairdresser's dog's groomer's boyfriend's father's uncle that something is some such.

Sentence structure pedantry does allow for a one word exclamation to be considered a sentence, so yes.

No. We use it for real car repair work specifically because it through-cures quickly via catalytic reaction, so we can deliver a car the same day it's painted. Paint in the morning, wetsand and buff the next morning AT THE LATEST if necessary...which it rarely is because our painter is very good. If we had to wait "weeks" we'd be out of business. EDIT: Granted, "full cure" where the product has achieved maximum hardness and solvent resistance can take days or weeks, but it was specifically developed to allow a vehicle to be returned to service ASAP...and it works beautifully for that if used correctly.

Anybody who's having drying issues with a 2K urethane product is doing something wrong. The REASON we use it for REAL-CAR REPAIR WORK is that it through-cures QUICKLY by catalytic action instead of evaporation. We can paint a repair panel at noon and deliver the car the same evening. The chemistry is the same for all true 2K urethanes.

"Pumpkin eater" is the end of the kiddie taunt starting with "cheater cheater".

Very nice.

Again I see a product has been renamed, "Eskimo Pie" now being known as "Edy's Pie"...

Little red Corvette in Reading looks like she's been jacked up for offroad duty.

Eskimo Pies, mmmmmmmm; do they still even make those?

A sharp hobby blade will be fine, but you might need to do multiple passes, which is why the paper backing is nice for protecting it from scratches, and for keeping a steel rule aligned without sliding around. It's been a while since I've used it, but if my memory is at all reliable, .010" should be quite stiff enough for those windshield parts if you're working in 1/24-1/25. EDIT: I've most recently used 1/16 stuff for making a set of custom curved projector-beam covers to go in the old signal light holes in an S2 E-type. I cut that material with a flat cutoff wheel on a Dremel, then sanded the rough edges up to 600 to discourage cracks from starting on down the road.

Man...NICE. I love to see old stuff brought back instead of being thrown out. How are you doing the graphics / decals?

Yup. Unfortunately, a lot of trusting souls don't look closely at the originating address, and there must be a lot of them to keep these all these scamming scumballs in business.

I've used the .010" stuff, and scoring / snapping works best. Don't try to score round corners. Cut your panels square and file or sand the corners to shape. The stuff can be somewhat brittle too, although it's harder and stiffer than the alternatives, so work carefully. It's important that your scribed lines are "clean" with no jaggedy edges for cracks to start on. The stuff I referenced comes with a paper carrier on both sides, which makes it easier to lay something like a steel rule on it to scribe, without scratching.

Thin polycarbonate "Lexan" sheet https://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/plastic-sheets/thin_gauge_polycarbonate_sheets/541

Looks good. Silver is a remarkably effective color for that body, really brings out the lines and curves.

Abductive reasoning as a substitute for empirical evidence.

Heat is harder to deal with than cold.

That is correct. Though it does represent a real aircraft engine, the engine in the kit is somewhere around 1/32.

If the whole system is used together, the stuff can be used for real-car parts, as it's hard clear-coated and doesn't dull, smear, or rub off like everything else. Based on SfanGoch's recommendation, I'm using it for new chrome on custom interior parts and re-chroming OEM interior parts on a high-end '66 Chevelle build, and once I have sufficient experience with it, I'll post my own observations.

The potential safety issues are why I withdrew my recommendations above. ONE possible (probable) reason for removing chrome is that there MIGHT be mold-lines present under the chrome. Manufacturers NEVER remove these lines, and they usually appear on the ends of plastic model car bumpers in highly visible locations. And while it is usually possible to design injection molded parts without any surface-visible mold parting-lines, it's not going to happen in most kits due to additional costs and the desire to put the bumper on a conventional sprue with many other parts.

Now that you mention it, a few things do seem out of kilter.