Ace-Garageguy

Ideas are dangerous, and independent thinking should be abolished, or at least heavily penalized.

Pository on the upholstery in gassers, minimum two seats and door panels, but lightweight f'glass buckets could be substituted. Far as engine setback goes, IIRC it was 10% of wheelbase allowed on gassers, 20% on altereds, measured at the front spark plug hole...at least I'm sure it was 20% on M/SP cars, which were eventually absorbed into altered classes. Links to actual period rules are posted at the top of this very forum heading.

Again and again, there are things...well, I'm forbidden to say what I'm thinking.

I enjoy it, though all I do lately is add to the stock and take something out to look at occasionally. Now what I need is the free time to build a model...but gainful employment is good too. And they pay me to do stuff that's just as much fun as building models...but the results run.

Two inline desiccant air driers for my big-boy primer gun, and several graduated mixing cups. I've finally finished all the custom metal work and fabrication of the engine management and trans computer-interface bay, and the access door for same, on the '66 Chevelle dash. Tomorrow AM I'm shooting it in the booth, in Medallion dark gray DTAM primer/surfacer...which I bought Tuesday.

Counter service for lunch, shakes, and sodas used to be available in many drug stores, but with the advent of fast food, it went the way of the dodo.

What a shame that's even a thought that has to occur to anyone now. Anybody who insists things in the past weren't better, more civilized...just think about this.

Honestly, my best bet is that everything got painted body color, as that was kinda standard on Euro cars of the period...trunk, engine bay, everything, and whatever black there is was applied after the car left the factory. Most of the resto "before" shots have pretty obvious undercoating that was most likely sprayed on to hide rust and dodgy repairs. I've also seen more than one resto on these cars where the black undercoat was scraped away, leaving the car's original color underneath. Some Euro cars of the period also got sprayed with a texturized "body schutz" in critical rust or noise areas prior to being painted...but in that case, obviously, the texture coat is body color too...and they usually were higher-end cars than a low-line Fiat.

That's what I thought when I saw the amount of effort and thought you'd put in so far, and that's why I offered some more information....and your approach is much like mine. I find that getting the technical details right, so the model would function for its intended purpose if it were scaled up to 1:1, is a large part of my "fun".

"Period-correct" features and technical details on model cars are often ignored in the name of "having fun".

Nice people often get blindsided by thieving cheats and scammers.

"Vessel empty make most noise", to paraphrase an old saying about dumb being loud.

Milk has a favorite cookie according to the ads, and it's the Oreo.

I don't know, but last time I was in one of the shops I work with, they had a 500 in for some major work. Next time I'm there, I'll see if I can get a definitive answer.

Design by committee...each member got to add one line or squiggle.

Armadillos are the state bird of Texas, aren't they?

Yeah, my system is '80s components and speakers, hardwired to the output jack from whichever computer I'm on. Maybe a little "primitive", but I've never heard anything that even comes close.

Y'all can do anything you want. It does for ME...but YOU don't HAVE to make ANYTHING "just right and accurate". AND...I'm not criticising the guy's work. I'm OFFERING KNOWLEDGE. Believe it or not, there are some people who value knowledge. EDIT: My apologies, Tony and Randy. I'll gladly remove my posts if you'd like. I just thought you might like to know.

Cars with coil springs and cars with quarter-elliptics (like the first Stone-Woods-Cook Willys) don't need sliders. Anything with semi-elliptic springs and ladder bars will need sliders. I got bogged down on one of my own builds when I had a DOH moment as I realized I'd need to fab sliders for the build to be right. You can leave your ladder bars as they are, and only fab sliders that are mounted to the axle, but allow the springs to slide through them. Here's one style, pretty easy to make. https://pitstopusa.com/i-23908156-competition-engineering-floating-housing-mount-bolt-on.html EDIT: This is about the simplest slider setup. The brackets weld to the housing, and the spring rides free on the rollers. https://www.chassisengineering.com/product-category/rear-suspensions-and-accessories/ladder-bars/housing-floaters/

Several months back, the "speaker out" function on my main laptop became inop. I run it through my big sound system, which is pretty fantastic...and being without music or having to listen to movie soundtracks through tinny little computer speakers isn't something that makes me happy. I checked the output plug, the wiring, the amp, all the connections, etc. No juice. I was about to take the computer to the shop, but I figgered I'd give it one last shot. Found a sound driver update online, loaded it...WHOOPEE!!! I have MUSIC again. Life is WAY better with the music I love.

Today is the last day of your life up until now.

Looks really good, very nice fabrication...but just a note on classes and tech: This build would most likely fall into a "gasser" class, if it has minimum required "street" equipment like lights, etc., and depending on the year you want to represent. Specific class is determined by engine displacement, whether or not it's supercharged, and vehicle weight. A/FX was for "factory experimental", and was limited to fairly current production cars of the 1960s. S/SX was supercharged experimental stock, just prior to full-blown funnycars, but rules specified a '64 or newer body for the /SX classes. This link goes a fairly complete, pretty accurate overview of older classes. https://nitroslots.com/thread/398/drag-racing-classses AND...DWC is absolutely correct about "sliders" being necessary with ladder-bars and semi-elliptic leaf springs. The rear suspension will bind without them. There are several different designs, so some research would be appropriate for your specific setup.

"God" is a forbidden topic here, falling under the heading of "religion", so exercise prudence.

Hips and lower back pain is much better today, thanks. It's absolutely necessary for me to keep up with my hiking and stretching if I want to stay mobile.

I'm running late as usual, but that's nobody's fault but mine.