Ace-Garageguy

Yup. When I'm at the physical shop, I work all the time, except for the occasional short interaction with other guys who are there to work too. I DO NOT get a salary. I do pretty well, but I ONLY GET PAID FOR WHAT I PHYSICALLY PRODUCE. When I do my paperwork and billing at home (which I have to do because I'm a subcontractor) I get distracted all the time by stuff that has absolutely nothing to do with getting the work done. Just like right now. And I'm pretty sure anyone who's honest with himself would admit the same thing. Thing is though, my distraction time during WFH hours costs my clients exactly nothing. I take the hit in my own pocket by wasting time that would be billable if I were in the shop. But hey...if you're getting a fat salary for sitting at home slacking, why rock the boat? EDIT: Somewhere around 20 years back, I read a widely publicized time-motion study that concluded most office workers spent around 35% of their on-the-clock time actually "working". This seemed to be pretty consistent with what I observed when I was a white-collar kinda guy. I have a really hard time believing it's better for WFH people. It's interesting what passes for "productivity", isn't it?

Interesting. But isn't the driver of the new-car industry as a whole to upsell upsell upsell all the useless bells and whistles consumers can be brainwashed marketed into thinking are desirable, even...OMG...necessary to get their pudgy modren personages from place to place with the greatest possible safety and the least possible physical engagement?? And if not, how many basic-transportation entry-level cars are on YOUR lot? Asking for a friend.

Christmas comes but once a year, and this year, I'm kinda feeling like the Grinch.

Doing billing at home today, looking out the window as the USPS driver once again put an expensive package on a car in the driveway, and the UPS driver tossed another one, clearly marked "FRAGILE", from 15 feet on to the porch. I sure wish I could do MY work so poorly and still get paid.

Unfortunately, the Drastic Plastics Fotki post of the instructions omits the relevant pages, or I'd walk you through it. That said, Mark is spot-on in saying you do it just like you'd do a real one. Lowering blocks in the rear will get you a lot of drop, and if the axle contacts the frame, it's perfectly acceptable to "C-notch" it for clearance...just like real. EDIT: The video below shows the relevant instruction page at about 2:25. To lower the front, you cut the stub axles loose from the spindles, parts 91 and 92, and reposition them UP towards the top of the car as much as you want to go down. NOTE: For just a little lowering, you MIGHT be able to simply turn the spindles upside-down, possibly requiring swapping them side-to-side...I can't tell from the video and all my kits on this chassis are already in Az. Measuring carefully in advance, with a mockup, and pinning the stub axles are strongly recommended. If you want to go lower still, come back here for more info.

With a song in my heart, it's off to work I go, heigh-ho, heigh-ho...

I like heem much lots. Very much lots.

Yeah, a long time ago. Like 1986. These recent offerings are a little late to the party, that's all. https://presskit.porsche.de/museum/en/2019/topic/exhibitions/cars/porsche-959-paris-dakar-1986.html

And shakes, and cones...just the best ice cream...period...the way I remember it.

Later that evening, the coyotes came back again to try to get the rest of the chickens.

My '92 extended-cab Silverado ate a cam follower a while back, and damaged the block. I've been looking at options, and though I have enough parts to build a nice run-forever 350, I'm kinda busy. I just made a $1200 deal on a fairly low-mileage take-out engine and 4L60E from a friend's '93 he stuffed an LS into. As my Silverado has a fairly recently quality rebuilt 700R4 (a non-electronic 4L60E, basically), I'll probably keep the existing gearbox and swap all the top-end EFI stuff so as not to get into oddball electronic nightmares in the short term. The 4L60 can operate just fine, thanks, behind a carbureted engine (with a stand-alone computer to run the trans), and this may be the long-term way forward, as the OEM EFI is coming up on the failure-is-inevitable part of its lifetime. EDIT: Hmmmm. I don't WANT any computers in the truck. I want stone-ax reliable, fix-it-beside-the-road simplicity. So I'm sure I can sell both the 700R4 and the 4L60 for enough folding green to buy a nice manual gearbox, flywheel, clutch, etc. Yup...I think we have a plan. Probably can squeeze a limited-slip diff out too (and why ANYBODY would buy a new truck without a limited-slip diff is beyond my comprehension). My '89 GMC fleet-stripper 305, 5-speed longbed has been running happily on a 60-year-old Rochester 2GC since its injection died years ago, with fuel mileage and drivability as good or better than with the OEM EFI, so I kinda have some experience with going to a carb on these older trucks...though the Silverado will most likely eventually get an air-gap manifold, a little 650 4-bbl Holley, block-hugger headers, and a low-end "RV" cam. Or I could just buy a new $40,000 truck. Nah. Of course, the way the prices are going on the OBS Chevy trucks, by the time she's running again, she might be worth as much as a new one.

PM'd

"Show me yours and I'll show you mine" is what we do here.

"Something something mumble mumble mumble something something mumble" is considered eloquence in some circles.

"Weight of charge" is improved on cool days, allowing your engine to make more power because the air is denser...assuming you have fuel injection capable of responding to barometric pressure and temperature, or know how to jet your carb to compensate.

Hope everything works out. Any doc who would charge you for a cancellation under the circumstances isn't much of a human being.

What is this "TV" you refer to? Oh yeah, I remember now. I haven't had TV for nigh on to 15 years. Don't miss it a lick, either.

They're similar, but the "multi purpose" stuff, regular old Elmers, is thicker and easier to use on models. The kiddie stuff is formulated to wash out of clothes easier.

Skunks drowned in the pool can spoil your morning swim.

Lol indeed; "POSTED NO TRESPASSING" must be Swahili or French or sumpin, 'cause there sure are lottsa Murkins that parently don't unnerstan it.

And PVA (polyvinyl acetate) is essentially "white glue" like Elmers, the Testors canopy stuff, wood glue, MicroMark's Krystal Klear, etc. Not a lot of people know that either.

"Word" is what the verbally-challenged say when confounded by their inability to compose a snappy affirmative response.

Nice clean build of a marginal kit. I started building one of these as a gift for a client I'm doing a full-scale car for, but there were so many proportion and line issues that need to be corrected, I put it back in its box.

Nope, but thanks for asking. I haven't touched her since shortly before the last post...other than to put her in a safe space. Had to clear the model bench to make up some small real-car parts. Might have some more modeling time during the Christmas break.