Ace-Garageguy

What if you don't like potato salad?

Also bought a couple broken Baldwin "Sharknose" deisels in Pennsy livery. Though the worst one was looking beyond saving, I've already carefully pieced her back together, and the repairs are all but invisible. Every Shark built (but two) was scrapped decades ago, and those two have recently come out in the daylight.

Sad remains of a very heavy cast brass HO scale 4-8-2 light "mountain" type steam locomotive. Bodged, parts lost, thrown out, and rescued from the scrap metal bin. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USRA_Light_Mountain I have enough bits to make a nice engine from the boiler, cab, cylinder assembly, frame, pilot truck and trailing truck shown below. I paid $12 for this mess. Decent plastic ones go for $100-200, nice brass ones for up to $1300+. But she'll take a little work... While she's getting rebuilt, her major parts will be featured in an engine erection building diorama. What she looks like finished.

Only if you're currently in the witness protection program.

"Toys" are generally import duty free...especially to individuals. Importing a container load might be different.

Single malt.

The best: Cream. Chastain Park Amphitheater. October 1968. Front row seats.

As I believe somebody else already said...there's already almost everything imaginable available to build any flavor '32 Ford you can think of. The existing AMT 1/25 and Monogram 1/24 '36 Ford kits are pretty good as far as proportion and line go, though the last partial retool from AMT is oddly awful in some ways. Any correct '34 Ford would be nice, but since tooling designers seem to be almost universally measuring-and-math-challenged today, I won't hold out much hope. A '26-'27 Ford rod, a very popular real-world thing, based on the current Revell '29 and '30 offerings, or even on one of the '32 kits, is such an obvious slam-dunk it's surprising nobody's done it yet...though it was proposed right here many years ago.

I'm currently right here, sitting in front of my computer.

I prefer the brush on as there's zero waste and no overspray...which can ruin anything nearby.

15-part YT series on the Jag...

Easy one. PM'd

OK everyone...hold your breath.

That's how I know I'm feeling particularly clumsy.

When I'm feeling particularly clumsy, I just keep the bottle in a cheap clear glass coffee cup.

Another one I knew, but my internet went down before I remembered to send the answer to Michael. Same basic car as the Willys Aero, but re-badged for '55, with a different grille and trim. The tooling was shipped to Brazil and went into production there in 1960.

The currently available "aircraft" remover isn't like the old stuff. But THIS is EXCELLENT.

Yes. Use an etching primer first for best adhesion, followed by any Duplicolor or model primer.

That, sir, is pretty cool.

What's confusing? The "oh geez" is for the experts who say "paint the hood off". I think my answer is pretty easily comprehensible as to why you don't want to do that with pearls or metallics...as several other guys who understand have echoed. Those of us who paint real cars and have a clue would never dream of painting parts separately, unless the paint is a solid color. And even then, if the color is a base-clear, you can get a slight panel-to-panel mismatch. But then again, some people just don't even see it. EDIT: Some years back, the idiot know-it-all painter who shot a real-steel 354 Hemi-powered '33 Plymouth I built for a nationally known shop shot the HOK sunset orange with the fenders, hood, and doors separate..."but at the same time with the same batch." When it came back to me to build up, you could see across the parking lot that the panels were at least 3 different colors. This was a $250,000 build, and to say the owner was a little upset would be the understatement of the decade. It ended up costing the poor SOB who owned the car another 30 grand to get the paint right...as the clown who did it wrong wouldn't make it right himself, making up excuse after excuse after excuse. The car owner sued the bozo who made the mess, and collected absolutely nothing. Below is the car just before I'd completed the metalwork. The frame and engine in HOK sunset orange...

Exactly.

Oh geez. If it's a metallic or pearl, shoot at least the last coat with the hood on...or you will most likely get a color "flop" mismatch. Next time you go to a real car show, look at how many cars have slight mismatches between doors and fenders, or doors and quarter panels. But folks just never learn.

All that is is standard lacquer "blushing" due to humidity. Different lacquers have varying levels of sensitivity, and it ALWAYS polishes off...usually with nothing more aggressive than toothpaste. "Solvent popping", on the other hand, is the result of hammering on too much paint too fast...aggravated by high humidity and temperatures. And it will NOT polish out.