Ace-Garageguy

OMG !!! OMG !!! You've violated the primary tenet of using the internet. What you're SUPPOSED to do, Mr. Smartypants, is mindlessly rebleat whatever anyone else says, and NEVER UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES TRY TO FIND OUT THE TRUTH FOR YOURSELF !!! OMG !!! OMG !!! OMG !!!

Ago go dancers always aroused my attention, but not as much as Playboy Bunnies with their cute little cottontails.

Well, maybe some folks have lower thresholds of "excited".

Unfortunately, the downside is that you have to have a brain.

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/forum/3-wip-model-cars/

"Done workin', gone to da Bahamas mon" is what I'd like to have on my shop door...but I'm still chained to a Chevelle.

You have to remember that a well-optioned original Hemi Challenger in clean-one-owner "survivor" condition is worth a ton of money anyway. Having some murky street-racing backstory just sweetens the pot. Remember also that what you choose to race determines a lot of your "rarely beaten" status. If I were to "street race" my '89 GMC pickup with a 2bbl 305, 5-speed, and only pick on 6-cylinder trucks with automatics, I'd most likely be "rarely beaten" too.

ctruss's post makes the important point that there is no one right way to get great rattlecan finishes. His procedure is similar to mine, but differs in several specifics as well. EXPERIENCE and PRACTICE, paying close attention to the results...with your brain in gear...will let you develop procedures that work well for you, every time. And don't expect cheapo hardware-store or big-box store rattlecans to produce outstanding results by just hosing the stuff on. You often CAN turn out show-quality jobs with el cheapo paint, and sometimes a particular color simply isn't available in anything else. But using rattlecan products not intended specifically for modeling is always going to take careful experimentation, with each different product, to get top-quality results.

Most helpful info.

Getting great results with rattlecans is more a question of experience and practice-practice-practice than anything else. The proverbial "mist coat" is, in my opinion, often misinterpreted to mean a dry coat shot from relatively far away. For me, this technique has proven to initiate orange peel that no subsequent wet coats will alleviate entirely. I'll shoot a "medium" wet coat first, see how it lays down, wait 20 minutes or so (with temp and humidity taken into consideration), then shoot (usually) two more full wet coats, 10-20 minutes apart. Some colors will require more coats for full coverage, and separate body parts should be ON the car for the final color coat or two, to ensure a perfect match between panels. This is even more important on metallics, pearls, and micas. Duplicolor lacquer is more aggressive ("hotter") than Tamiya and Testors, so there's always the possibility of swelling over bodywork, or areas where the molded surface of the base plastic has been broken, even if the part has been carefully primered repeatedly and block-sanded. This is not a disaster. Just let it dry a little longer, then sand the affected area with 800 or so, wet, wipe it down, and spray another coat. Repeat as necessary. The hood below swelled repeatedly where the ornament and peak had been removed, but patience won out in the end, and this is 3 full wet coats of a Duplicolor "mica" green, no polishing, just exactly as-shot.

Great looking boat. More info please.

Yup. Mid to low 9s like Sudden Death is "legend" fast. No way an optioned-out stock Challenger, even a Hemi car, is going to touch that. And maybe the Ghost was indeed a street racer, but it certainly wouldn't have been among the fastest.

8 inches is less than a Subway footlong.

Nice car, but not my dog. I wouldn't pay that much for a Dodge even if there was documented "proof" Elvis had partied with aliens in Vegas in it, with Marilyn Monroe strapped to the hood for an ornament, and did regular 10-second quarter-mile passes on the Strip while JFK waved from the passenger seat. Not that I have a million lying around in loose change anyway...

https://www.hondajet.com/

It's going to depend on the truck and the body. There are several ways to do it. Just use common sense in your scale engineering. Fabbed and welded brackets:

"About bloody time" is often an appropriate phrase these days.

Digits to the left of me, digits to the right of me, yea, though I walk through the valley of digits, I will fear no interdigitation.

Embarassing was walking into a calculus exam wearing no pants, but it was only a dream.

Most of the last two generations...

Bought another relatively cheap builtup Ferrari 275P for a windshield and other parts I need for my ongoing build thread. As I'm intending to do a full-detail 275P sometime in the future anyway, it won't go to waste. And you can never have too many Ferraris, right?

Bought another relatively cheap builtup, as the windshield on the other car proved to be too badly gloo pitted to salvage, and I've already moved both the virgin kits west. The new car gives me some extra wheels to experiment with too, as I don't want to go the same route as Pierre at this time. Though this one's missing the front underbody panel, it's WAY nicer than the car I started this build with. And as I'm intending to do at least one full detail build of a 275P at some point, it won't go to waste.

"Anymore" has to be the most annoying word anyone can leave for the next guy.