Ace-Garageguy

Ya know...idiocy isn't limited to just one side of the political aisle, and there's no shortage of it on either side, To imply otherwise...

Bottle babies miss a lot.

Rash replies to posts bordering on the political may land you in a time-out.

Mr. Budge, I believe, is in Scotland. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Healthcare_in_Scotland

But wait...don't you know that in today's much more gooder world anyone with a shiny new degree in the History of Competitive Tiddlywinks or something equally useful can perform well as a manager in ANY field, just as long as they're the right gender or ethnicity to fill the quotas? Wake up, man. The world has changed. Time to get on board.

Scenes Unlimited's product line has apparently been bought by ST Supply in Canada, but so far, many of the old SU products haven't made it back to market yet. https://stsupplyco.com/

800 wet is fine. But if you have "pebbly" metallic, you need to sand it flat, then shoot one good wet coat...assuming you want the color to look like it's supposed to look.

Me too...

Rex hppn whn ppl r txtng n not bng crfl enuf.

Yes, there's no question that knowledgeable and intentional shooting of metallics 'dry' can indeed make the flakes stand up, and the finish "pop" more...but it's a difficult skill to master, especially on real cars where any intentional manipulation of how the flakes lie can very easily lead to streaks and blotches.

Well, since you brought it up Dan, I don't think you guys can fairly bust my chops for making a "political" response. It's no longer necessary for an adversary to pursue such outdated tactics as "invade". All they now need do is line up at the border claiming to be "asylum seekers", and we'll give 'em free transportation anywhere they want to go, and free shelter and benefits when they get there. What a deal.

There is, however, an often overlooked problem with shooting metallics too dry, and "building up the color in light coats", both on models AND REAL CARS. Many people just don't see it. Shoot metallics dry, and you'll get a slightly mottled texture that, when clear-coated, is magnified. Again, apparently the majority of people just don't see it, but it's not what the paint is SUPPOSED to look like, and to me looks like Fido's backside.

Well, I almost always get my stuff eventually, but anything time-critical, forget it. Stuff I ship is the same. Two packages of parts shipped "Priority" Sat. AM, delivery at destinations estimated for Monday PM, stuff finally arrived Thursday PM, and in the meantime was completely off the "tracking" radar. So why the hello did I pay for "Priority"?

I depend on timely parts delivery for my business, and have constant issues with the PO here and out-of-state mis-routing just like you do. It's only going to get worse as competence becomes less and less a hiring criterion, and gross incompetence isn't a reason for termination. Speaking of which, I was behind a local PO truck yesterday on the way to the shop. I've rarely seen a vehicle under less apparent control, and if the driver wasn't drunk or otherwise impaired, he/she/they/it should be hospitalized.

Huh?

The "Sudden Death" Mustang II is really pretty trick, serious engine setback, all kinds of cool stuff...and the only Mustang II I ever looked twice at. I think I feel a hankering for another kit coming on...

You would win that race, most likely.

Paint scheme looks great. Nice job, sir.

It really helps to understand the functions of things, and "traction bars" and "ladder bars" do entirely different things. There's tons of misinfo and misunderstanding out there. "Traction bars" (whether they're the original "Traction Master" style or the "slapper bar" style) are intended to limit leaf-spring "wrap up" under hard acceleration, by preventing the axle from rotating around its own center, relative to the car. The stock trailing arms on the '62 Bel Air do essentially the same thing, being welded to the axle housing, and pivoted forward on a line that would be about where leaf spring eyes would be. But as they're mounted at an angle to each other laterally, they also keep the axle from moving side to side relative to the car. They're kinda half a 4-link setup. Sorta. "Ladder bars" also prevent the rear axle from rotating around its own center on acceleration, but because the forward ends are much farther forward, they take the rotational force from the axle and turn it into a lifting force where they mount, raising the front of the car to aid in rearward weight transfer (all of this is somewhat oversimplified, but it's correct in concept). "Ladder bars" on a coil-spring car would probably replace the stock trailing arms (odd binding of everything, rough ride, and parts breaking occurs if they're not designed right and used in conjunction with stock trailing arms). Because long ladder bars are usually parallel to each other, something more would be required to control rear axle sideways motion, like a Panhard bar or Watts linkage.

IIRC, it was Donn Yost who pioneered, or at least popularized, that technique many years ago, and I mean many. Mr. Yost has lotsa how-to vids on YT, as well as books. Your answer is surely to be found among them somewhere, grasshopper.

Man, I envy you that one. I've never even been on the same field as one, much less see/hear one take off. Pretty cool, sir.

But TRAINS !!! YOU GET TO DRIVE TRAINS !!! How cool is that?